Developing time for FB paper

[Photo Knowledge]

Can anyone give me the times to develope FB paper in Ilford Multigrade paper developer. Ilford Ilfostop and Ilford rapid fixer? Thank you!

 

[MattKing]

What dilution are you using for the developer?
Here is the Ilford datasheet for the developer - the answer is on page 3: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1828/product/709/

 

[xkaes]

Whatever developer, dilution or temperature you use, the time should be how long it takes to reach maximum black. Anything less than that will be less than maximum black in your prints.

 

[GregY]

Can anyone give me the times to develope FB paper in Ilford Multigrade paper developer. Ilford Ilfostop and Ilford rapid fixer? Thank you!

At normal dilutions & 20°C/68°F , typical time for FB paper is 2 minutes as a starting point. As they say, YMMV. It's of course tied to your negative and exposure. I use Ansco 130 and LPD and frequently develop past 2 minutes..."to completion" as they say. But it depends on the highlights. 2min with the products you've mentioned would be a good target.

 

[MarkS]

I've been using "Liquidol" paper developer, invented by Bill Troop and Ron Mowrey, and they recommend a one-minute development. But 50 years of two-minute developing is a habit I haven't been able to break. Maybe I should run some tests.

 

[Photo Knowledge]

Whatever developer, dilution or temperature you use, the time should be how long it takes to reach maximum black. Anything less than that will be less than maximum black in your prints.

What do you mean by maximum black? Like my whole print just going completely black? I'm really just wanting a straight answer on times for Ilford Multigrade Paper Developer. Ilfostop and Ilford Rapid Fixer. I just would like the time for each. But I'm curious on what you mean by maximum black. I'm a beginner so anything that's advance in a answer I won't understand like maximum black.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Depends. I use anywhere from 1-1/2 min to 5 min in 130 at 1:3, depending on the specific image. But the generic advice of starting with 2 min is generally what I do with any first test strip of my own. Black itself is relative. You might not want full DMax with every single image. That's and esthetic choice, likewise capable of being specifically tailored if necessary.

 

[Photo Knowledge]

What dilution are you using for the developer?
Here is the Ilford datasheet for the developer - the answer is on page 3: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1828/product/709/

Thanks for the datasheet but I'm looking for times to use. Here is my dilutions for each one I'm using. Ilford Multigrade Paper Developer 1+9 Ilford Ilfostop 1+19. Ilford Rapid Fixer 1+4. If you can just tell me the develope stop and fix time for each with FB paper that would help. No further explanation but times. I'm a basic beginner. Thank you!

 

[MattKing]

Thanks for the datasheet but I'm looking for times to use. Here is my dilutions for each one I'm using. Ilford Multigrade Paper Developer 1+9 Ilford Ilfostop 1+19. Ilford Rapid Fixer 1+4. If you can just tell me the develope stop and fix time for each with FB paper that would help. No further explanation but times. I'm a basic beginner. Thank you!

This is directly from page 3 of that datasheet that I linked to, and it both answers your question, and gives you some additional useful information:

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use Dektol for fiber paper for 2 minutes. I standardize on that.

 

[MattKing]

What do you mean by maximum black?

Exposed and developed paper gets more and more black as you increase the exposure, until you get to the point where it doesn't/can't get any blacker - that is the minimum exposure that gives you a maximum black.
When you shine the enlarger light through the negative, the clearest parts of the negative - the ones that correspond to the darkest parts of the subject - let the most light through. So generally you want to give the paper the minimum exposure that will result in those darkest parts of the subject reaching that maximum black.
In some cases, your subject won't have anything that is that black - thing of snow scenes as an example. For those, the exposure you want will result in something lighter than maximum black on the print.

 

[Photo Knowledge]

This is directly from page 3 of that datasheet that I linked to, and it both answers your question, and gives you some additional useful information:
View attachment 345941

Thanks again for the data sheet but at this time I cannot download anything. Can you please just give me a answer for times. Just tell me the time for Ilford Multigrade Paper Developer Ilford Ilfostop and Ilford Rapid Fixer. I just need a time for each one please. All I need is a time each please no more data sheets I cannot download them. Please just a time for each. For example. Now this is a example because I don't know the times. Ilford Multigrade Paper Developer for one minute. Ilford Ilfostop for 30 seconds. Ilford Rapid Fixer for 2-4 mins. So all I'm looking for is times. I just need a short answer with times that's all I'm looking for. Could you help me with times? Just a time for each. Thank you for replying back!

 

[eli griggs]

Whatever paper you are using, or developer, IMO, you need to allow the full development time the papers have for the developer used.

I.E., with some of my fb papers, that's about four to five minutes.

With Ilford MC RC, I believe it is two minutes; both with Ansco 130 developer.

Positive benefits are prints in a series or multiples, will include filter(s), drydown times, and uniformity in the final print, from one to fifty.

I believe all papers are designed for the longest time in the developer.

 

[MattKing]

The picture of the table that I last included clearly shows the times for FB paper and Multigrade developer. Is it difficult for you to see it? If so, it may be a challenge to do this over the internet.
That table recommends a range of 1.5 - 3 minutes for FB paper and 1 + 9 dilution Multigrade developer. If you need a single target time, the table recommends two minutes for that dilution and paper.

 

[Photo Knowledge]

The picture of the table that I last included clearly shows the times for FB paper and Multigrade developer. Is it difficult for you to see it? If so, it may be a challenge to do this over the internet.
That table recommends a range of 1.5 - 3 minutes for FB paper and 1 + 9 dilution Multigrade developer. If you need a single target time, the table recommends two minutes for that dilution and paper.

 

[Photo Knowledge]

You only gave me time for Ilford Multigrade Paper Developer. Times for Ilford Ilfostop and Ilford Rapid Fixer please. All I need are those two times and I'll leave you be!

 

[Photo Knowledge]

The picture of the table that I last included clearly shows the times for FB paper and Multigrade developer. Is it difficult for you to see it? If so, it may be a challenge to do this over the internet.
That table recommends a range of 1.5 - 3 minutes for FB paper and 1 + 9 dilution Multigrade developer. If you need a single target time, the table recommends two minutes for that dilution and paper.

{moderator's edit}

Why you getting smart with me? I'm new to this so don't be rude.

 

[Brad Deputy]

I can't seem to find Ilford's instructions for FB development, so I've followed Kodak's instead, using nearly identical chemicals:

Kodak Times:
Stop (Ilfostop or Kodak Indicator Stop; citric-acid based): 15 seconds
Fix (Kodafix, Kodak Rapid Fix or Ilford Rapid Fix, mixed to paper-strength 1:7): 5 - 10 minutes for FB

Strictly a personal recommendation:
Hypo Clear (1:3) for 8 minutes after Fix (rinse briefly in-between if possible), then wash for 30-45 minutes.
Multiple checks with Residual Hypo test found no trace of fix remaining.


EDIT: Found Ilford's FB Instructions:

Stop
ILFOSTOP 1+19, 10 seconds
ILFOSTOP PRO 1+19, 10 seconds

Fix
ILFORD RAPID 1+4, 1 minute
FIXER 1+9, 2 minutes
HYPAM 1+4, 1 minute
HYPAM 1+9, 2 minutes
Powder ILFOFIX II, 3 minutes

 

[xkaes]

What do you mean by maximum black?

That simply means the darkest black a paper can produce. It does not mean that every picture will have a maximum black. A picture taken in a snow storm won't. But if you are developing paper where it CAN'T ever achieve maximum black -- because you are not developing the paper long enough -- you will never get it when you want it.

 

[rcphoto]

I'm amazed you have all these ilford products and managed to loose every data sheet that comes in the boxes or attached to the bottles.

 

[MattKing]

{moderator's edit}

Why you getting smart with me? I'm new to this so don't be rude.

Not being smart. I was trying to determine whether the table I shared was for some reason obscured or for some other reason you were unable to read it.

 

[Photo Knowledge]

Sorry that message was for someone else trying to be a smart ass to me. Well the data sheets you sent me is just for RC. See I'm new here and new to this stuff and I also have a hard time so instead of data sheets I really just wanted you or someone to just type the times for me here. That's all I wanted but it's something no one can do for me. I don't need to be here and I don't need to be bullied so please remove me from this site. Someone will be contacting the owner of this site for what was said to me from someone on here it was uncalled for.

 

[MattKing]

Well the data sheets you sent me is just for RC.

The datasheet shared has information about both FB and RC paper.

 

[mshchem]

Yes, I use 2 minutes with Bromophen @ 20°C with current Ilford and Foma papers. 3 minutes works great and may produce a more pleasing print. Fiber base seems to be better with a bit longer times 2-3 minutes, depends on the developer. Ilford is the best source of information on their products.

 

[Philippe-Georges]

I develop FOMABROM FB III, in an eco Dektol type of developer 1+1,5 at 22°C and for 3 min (and Selenium at the end).
I like intensive black's in my photos...