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Developing tanks for 16mm movie film options?


I had thought the Expert drum was designed for processing Super8 rather than 16mm?
 
Jobo meanwhlie also offers a 16mm version.
 
Just scroll down the analog page at the Jobo site.
There you will find two offers of such reel, both with same photo, both at same price.
But when you open them the one offer is for a Super-8, the other for a 16mm version.



The New-Jobo site is a total mess, the by far worst site I know in our field. Even I myself do not know what some item is for, how to use it without resorting to my archive. How could a newbie get wise from that?
 
I'm a big fan of Jobo stuff, but the prices are insane. That 8-mm film reel costs way too much. And, if you look at it, it looks like you could make it by supergluing a run of plastic filament around a drain pipe, attach one end of the film, run it around the pipe emulsion side out, and put that in a Unicolor tank (the cheap ones people used for Cibachrome). Doesn't have to be a great fit.
 
Don Heisz said:
I'm a big fan of Jobo stuff, but the prices are insane.
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I use Jobo equipment but the prices seem to have really ramped up since I bought my gear. I have the CPP-3, which is extremely useful, yet the build quality isn't fantastic compared to the price. I'm sure if one used the machine just a couple of evenings a week it would be fine.
 

I have an older, basic CPE-2 that was part of a darkroom lot I bought years ago (it was a very lucky purchase - it came with the small and the big tank). I use it regularly but I fear the day I bang it into something and the egg-shell-thin plastic tub cracks. If the motor burns out, I think it could be replaced easily. I think the part most likely to give out, though, is the mechanical switch that causes it to change rotation direction.

I'm actually planning on doing some 16mm film developing soon, in a 33foot Lomo tank. Loading the reel is a bit intimidating, though.
 
Bronson Dugnutt said:
Have you been able to develop any film? Powering an autowinder by steam or Stirling would be pretty cool. Batteries not included.
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That would be cool, seen some low RPM dc motors that could do the job.
For now I just have manual wind.




The Bolex is still waiting to be serviced, so can't test yet.
 
Very nice Bolex! Glad to see another one here on Phototrio. I have the 8mm version. This has the variable shutter, but I don't have a rexofader like yours.
I have had good success having all my B&W reversal film processed and split by Yale Film and Video.
 
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I also have an older round-bottom Rex and a Non-REX. The nice thing about the Non-REX is that it is my low-light camera. Without the REX prism, more light hits the film so the effective shutter speed is slower (better for low light). That one also has the f0.9 lens that was only available for the 8mm Non-REX cameras.

 
Nice collection. Was thinking I should of maybe chosen 8mm as it is a little more affordable. Anyhow can always down size latter if I want. 16mm equipment is getting very expensive, especially the later models, like Leicas, they make a good investment.
How is your slow motion rig going? Want to make something similar in the future.
 
I tried to 3D print a Morso style tank just for 25/33ft (10M) 2x8 but it didn't work. I think the volumes were too small and the length of development would have to be really long even if the chemicals were strong enough which means a hell of a lot of winding! Also using Forma Reversal 100 I worry that the emulsion is too fragile.

I have had success doing tests with 1.6m of film on a cut down Patterson 35mm spiral. (There are plenty of tutorials on the interweb on this or you can just work it out.) I'm currently considering cutting down 4 or 5 more spirals (I have a bunch of old ones) which would enable me to process about 8m (26ft) of film at a go, cut into sections. This sounds crazy but if the intention is to scan rather than project the film then it maybe be feasible. It's also easier to dry etc.

This is doing Regular/Double 8 of course, not Super 8 which would be crazy as you'd have to double everything.
 
I have both the Morse and Lomo tanks. As for Lomo, be sure to get the larger one, which holds 100ft (assuring that you are shooting 100 ft rolls). The smaller Lomo would require dividing film roll.
As for Morse, the key is to have all solutions at the ready and patiently turn crank slowly and steadily. There is a tendency to speed up cranking as time goes by. The other thing is that the number of winding cycles is more important than development time. In other words, cranking from one reel to the other in lieu of counting time.
Both are made of Bakelite, and therefore fragile.
 
Hi guys, newbie here, sorry to resurrect an old thread but thought some of you may be interested to see an old Jobo 8/16 10m tank and winder I just bought.
Unfortunately the manual seems to be in German but I should be able to work it out hopefully.
 

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SilverPrintMan said:
Hi guys, newbie here, sorry to resurrect an old thread but thought some of you may be interested to see an old Jobo 8/16 10m tank and winder I just bought.
Unfortunately the manual seems to be in German but I should be able to work it out hopefully.
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Very nice! I have a similar to yours that has a capacity of 7 reels. It is the Russian PM-451 and the funny thing is that i bought it 15 Euros
 
DareFail said:
Very nice! I have a similar to yours that has a capacity of 7 reels. It is the Russian PM-451 and the funny thing is that i bought it 15 Euros
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I paid £30 for it, seemed like a bit of a bargain having both reels and the winder
 
I've never gone sub miniature, closest is half frame but that's normal 35mm anyway, got a couple of 16mm camera's knocking about somewhere and I had everything except a tank to do 8/16mm. I'm in the process of moving and my whole darkroom is in storage at the moment, it gives me a little incentive to get it up and running again asap and explore pastures new!
 
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