Developing Orwo np20

[Lumipan]

Hi, how should I develop Orwo NP20? I have Rodinal, Adox XT-3 and a Jobo 1520 tank. Couldn't find much on the Internet, thanks

 

[Lumipan]

Classic Film Review Blog – ORWO NP20

When people hear the name ORWO, they mostly think of their brilliant motion picture films, UN54 and N74. Their newer offerings include the recently announced but yet-to-arrive NP100 and NP400 plus NC500. But that is

www.alexluyckx.com

I found this, Rodinal 1:50 9:30min at 20 Celsius. My liquids are at 24C currently so I'll adjust a bit

 

[Lumipan]

I just developed it and it turned out fully black (non-transparent), turns out it was shot years ago. So just a waste of chemistry.

 

[lamerko]

There are several recommended developers for NP 20. Among those listed with trade names are ORWO A-03, ORWO R-09, and ORWO A-49. R-09 is also known as Calbe P-09, and currently ADOX Rodinal. A-49 was accordingly marketed as Calbe A-49, and is currently Adox Atomal 49. Regarding A-03, this was initially a lab-only developer, but was later released in small packages. Not currently available, but the formula is known:

Calgon - 2.0 g
Sodium Sulfite - 25.0 g
Phenidone - 0.2 g
Hydroquinone - 4.0 g
Sodium Carbonate - 18.5 g
Potassium Bromide - 2.0 g
Water - 1.0 L
pH: 10.1

6-8 min/at 20 C

It's an interesting developer, but the results are generally not great. The key thing about it is that the development times are the same for the entire ORWO black and white film series, making it ideal for labs.

Overall - best results with the A-49 - highly recommend it for these films!

 

[pentaxuser]

I just developed it and it turned out fully black (non-transparent), turns out it was shot years ago.

I don't understand what you mean by "shot" Do you mean already exposed to light before you got it and then respooled back into the cassette? I take it that it wasn't a friend who gave it to you? If it was then you don't need enemies

Thanks

pentaxuser

 

[lamerko]

Note that the last photo films of this type were produced more than 20 years ago. A lot depends on how they are stored - they can be completely fogged simply from time and high temperatures. In general, 135 type is a little more durable, but 120 is very bad - it seems that the paper used is prone to bacterial contamination.

 

[Lumipan]

I don't understand what you mean by "shot" Do you mean already exposed to light before you got it and then respooled back into the cassette? I take it that it wasn't a friend who gave it to you? If it was then you don't need enemies

Thanks

pentaxuser

The film wasn't mine, I just occasionally develop films for this guy who owns a photo place. He told me later this film was found by a lady. It was used (shot, exposed) years ago and not developed, so no wonder nothing came out.

II'm not a native English speaker