Developing old Verichrome Postcard A122 film

[Rlibersky]

So I got a number of Kodak Pocket 3A cameras (see picture 1 ) awhile ago. (Must have had some big pockets at the time). My plan was to switch parts around and get one good one to display. One of the cameras had an exposed roll of Verichrome film. Don't know how old it is but it was discontinued in 1956.

So I have been trying to figure out how to develop the film, not a formula but the process. The film is 3.5 inches wide by about 3 feet long. So finally I bought an old 3A development tank (see picture 2) I was able to get the film loaded. I was skeptical because it wasn't apparent how the developer would cover the whole film surface without trapped air.

I used D23 developer, for 12 minutes, because it tends to hold back the highlights and is low contrast. (Total educated guess)

The attached picture is the best of the 2 that worked.

Interestingly Mississippi Co-op is local to St Paul MN. It was founded in 1979. The 3 that exist were built in the late 80's and later. None look like this one. So this picture was taken between 1979 and ~1988. The film was already 25+ years. I developed it 7/4/2020. I have 5 fresh Verichrome Pan A122 films dated 1974. Any ideas on how to process them other then the tank?

 

[Donald Qualls]

For the original Verichrome, you could have used the see-saw method in a tray, under red safelight. Verichrome Pan, obviously, wno't work with that method.

One option would be to get a three-reel Paterson tank, crack one of the reels apart (the way they're made to come apart for cleaning and adjustment), and glue the halves to the core, using the processed film as a width guide. You won't be able to ratchet the film on, but might be able to push it in. You could also put press-fit or glue spacers on the core to lock the upper reel half in place loosely enough to let it turn; this would let you use the balls to ratchet the film in (and might be reversible, so you don't expend the core and reels for three rolls of VP). You might need to add a stop to prevent overrotating the upper reel half.

If you have a four-reel stainless tank, you might find a 116 reel for that on eBay; a single 35mm will keep it from moving too much during inversion.

 

[Rlibersky]

Thanks I have quite a few Plastic reels (prefer the Metal ones anyway) So that is a good idea. I thought of the see-saw method and will do that if needed.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Woops, 122 is another quarter inch wider than 116, not to mention the long postcard frame. Still, if you're cutting to fit, it almost doesn't matter. Another potential option is to cut the core off a second bottom (inner) half and glue it to the first, shortened as needed to give the right dimension and, if necessary, glued to the core as well. That would still let you adjust (maybe catch both 116 and 122?), as well as preserving the loading ratchet function.

 

[MattKing]

Is that film on a reel? Could you use that reel in a bigger steel tank?

 

[Rlibersky]

More of a plastic cover wrapped around the film. when loaded it is daylight safe. Maybe a dip and dunk type tank would work.

 

[MattKing]

So it is similar to the Kodak Aprons, except there isn't an open central core.
Is this internet image what you have?

looks like it was intended to be used with the box:

See here: http://www.lungov.com/wagner/c/072c.html

 

[Rlibersky]

Yes without the wood box.

 

[Rlibersky]

The box is for loading the film on to the reel. Actually a pretty good method for loading in daylight. I was a little difficult aligning the film in the dark. Once aligned it rolled up pretty well.

 

[Rlibersky]

Is also loaded with the backing paper on the reel as well. I did not do this.

 

[MattKing]

I think I would try that apron + film sandwich in a Paterson tank.
Probably without inversion - instead moving the tank in an S shape on a countertop.

 

[Rlibersky]

So a couple of things
1. I was at Mississippi market today and realized the picture was of the one I shop at. I then remebered I bought the camera with a few shots left on the roll. So I just took them at the next stop. So the film was at least 66 years old and still got a best guess at exposure and development time picture.

2. I took Matt sugestion and made my own film holder. A great idea.

 

[Rlibersky]

The rachet loading system works well for loading

 

[MattKing]

2. I took Matt sugestion and made my own film holder. A great idea.

You are very welcome - except it was Donald who made the suggestion regarding modifying the reel!
Glad it is working out for you

 

[Rlibersky]

Must be the same reason I forgot I took the picture.

 

[Rlibersky]

Thanks Donald

 

[Donald Qualls]

You're very welcome. I'm pretty sure I first read about someone doing that here, when it was still APUG. Glad to hear it works, though. Now you just need to find a source of 122 film. Might ask Jim Galli where he gets very large roll film and how he cuts it to width -- and save your backing paper...

 

[Rlibersky]

The 5 I have make it worth while.

There is a slot in the ratcheting piece on top. I used a couple of screws to make it adjustable for other unusual sizes of film.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Ones you might run into: 116/616 (fairly common), 118 (quite uncommon), 124 (moderately uncommon), the original 126 (not the one in the cartridge), and two different 4x5 (one 4" wide, the other 5" wide). There was also a size between 120 and 127 width, only ever seen one camera for sale in that format.

 

[mshchem]

I think 122 postcard format is so very cool. If I was a billionaire I would reintroduce the 3A. I actually have a Nikor "Special" (made by Nikor) 122 reel. What you have looks a lot more trustworthy than trying to load a SS reel with 3 1/2 " wide 50 year old film.

 

[Rlibersky]

I have an unopen roll of 5" film Super XX. It came with a aerial camera I bought.. Haven't been able to use it yet.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I think I'll stick with cutting 120 to feed my 127 and 16mm cameras...