Developing in-camera HP5+ / Rodinal for cyanotype

Folks -- I used to be very active on APUG but haven't posted here in a while.

I am interested in trying a little project using in-camera 6x6cm negs for cyanotypes (by contact-printing). I will be using the HP5 Plus / Rodinal combination. My recollection is that cyanotypes require a denser and higher-contrast original to get a good tonal scale. In light of this, does anyone have a good starting-point suggestion for how to expose and develop this film-dev combination for direct use in making cyanotypes?

You are aware that the cyanotype process does not resolve fine detail. While you will get a print from a 6x6 negative you maybe dissatisfied with the result. Typically people use a larger format negative in this process 5x7, 8x10 or larger. Google the work of John Dugdale. He is one of the foremost practitioners of cyanotypes. You could also make a larger negative from the smaller format one.

In addition the cyanotype has a limited contrast range. This can be partially remedied by double coating the paper. You also need to adjust the dynamic range of the negative to the cyanotype paper. I would suggest more reading on the process before you dive in.

Getting good cyanotypes is not easy. Sensitizing the paper is more an art than a science. I would suggest starting with photograms until you get the process down well.

Cyanotype requires a specific density range, that may or may not be achievable with normal film processing. If you impose from the outset HP5+Rodinal (why?), you are decreasing your chances of success. I use the "New Cyanotype" that requires a fairly large density range in the negative: Dmax-Dmin~1.6. Traditional cyanotype, I understand, responds to a smaller density range (and produces a more limited density range, also). I s***d my negative, and produced with my inkjet printer an enlarged version of that negative on transparent film (for overhead projection). As noted by Gerald Koch, the cyanotypoe itself has limited resolution, so the inkjet resolution is probably not a limitation. And, because the inkjet cannot produce Dmax-Dmin~1.6, I make two, stack them carefully (adhesive tape once OK), and use that to expose the cyanotype paper. An important factor is using non alkaline paper; treating in citric acid may help. Some links (a lot more out there, do your own searching):
http://www.christopherjames-studio....cesses/SAMPLE CHAPTERS/CyanotypeProcessSm.pdf
http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/new-cyanotype-process

No harm in trying a simpler approach to see if it works for you surely?

I know photographers who produce beautiful cyanotypes from contacting normal camera negs without worrying too much about densitometers and curves. Why not do a simple test. I would use something like FP4, at least nothing too fast, and shoot the same shot several times on a roll. Cut the film up and try three different dev times. Maybe at Normal, plus 30%, plus 50%, and then make cyanotypes to see which is heading in the right direction. In fact could shoot the test image at box speed and also at 64 ISO to see if it gives any more shadow detail, though would probably be too soft when developed normally.

Just noticed you are using HP5 and Rodinal. I would personally go for a slower speed film and a developer more suited for pushing, but no harm trying it out. Will probably work fine.

Thanks for the suggestions. I should have been clearer that this is a project I will be doing with kids, so high-resolution or fine-art photo quality is not a concern here. I have done lots of cyanotype photograms as well as cyantoype and VDB using inkjet negatives in the past. I am limited to HP5 Plus and Rodinal for this project. I will report back on my results.

Jordan said:

Thanks for the suggestions. I should have been clearer that this is a project I will be doing with kids, so high-resolution or fine-art photo quality is not a concern here. I have done lots of cyanotype photograms as well as cyantoype and VDB using inkjet negatives in the past. I am limited to HP5 Plus and Rodinal for this project. I will report back on my results.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification. It explains the reason for the small negatives.

I think you'll only need to develop for higher contrast, shoot normal, extend developing time. I'm using cyanotype for my summer art program at local playgrounds, I use 4x5 negatives that I shot and over developed, simple subjects. I may try doing a couple portraits if the parents allow and are present when I do them. Cyanotype on cloth is fun, we did t-shirts a couple of weeks ago and the kids were thrilled.

Give it a go even with that combination & you will learn what are the requirements.
Just to get you going here a 2 examples with 6X6 negs.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/txomin-leon-cedric/5424088745/in/album-72157625572621531/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/txomin-leon-cedric/5404449590/in/album-72157625572621531/