Developing expired kodak gold 200 in ilford id-11

[Tobychrome]

Hi, is it possible to develop expired kodak gold 200 in ilford id-11 powder developer, if so what are the times I use and temperatures?

 

[wildbill]

I wouldn't recommend it.
I do recommend doing a search for "c41 film in b+w chemicals" since you're aren't the first to ask this.

 

[Tobychrome]

I'm not looking for good results I'm just trying it out

 

[removed account4]

just process it a little less time you would iso 200 film.
it will be dense, and have a orange mask and be nearly useless to print
you might be able to scan it, but maybe not ... YMMV

good luck !
john

ps. i don't use gold200 but other stuff, and i don't use id11 but other stuff
just the same my recent uploads is loaded with color film processed in b/w chemistry ..

 

[StoneNYC]

I've processed a lot of Gold200 in B&W developer but I always stand develop it for an hour on Rodinal 1:100. So that's my recommendation. I don't use ID-11 so I can't say what to do with that developer. Sorry.

 

[removed account4]

Hi, is it possible to develop expired kodak gold 200 in ilford id-11 powder developer, if so what are the times I use and temperatures?

you might try a lower contrast developer like caffenol C spiked with some id11 powder
as i mentioned the film with be dense .. and the stain from the caffenol will sort of stain over the orange mask ...
i know someone who used to dip his b/w processed color film in household bleach dilute 1:10 only for a few seconds ( then rewashing it )
it removed the mask ... but it will probably damage your film, he stopped doing it after a while ...

 

[Rick A]

Funny you should ask today of all days, I just souped a roll in D-76(basically same as ID-11)30 minutes stand at 20c. It came out real good, you just need to fix for longer times than B&W . I might even try to print a few of the frames just for grins. I only developed it to see if a camera was working that the film was already loaded in when I bought it.

 

[StoneNYC]

Gold200 in my stand developed Rodinal 1:100

I figured actual examples would help you instead of a bunch of random suggestions.

Ignore the perf holes, it's not bromide drag it's the film gate of the contex contamatic being off center.

 

[Rick A]

I would post examples of mine, but it's still drying plus I can't scan negatives I only print.

 

[frank]

I would post examples of mine, but it's still drying plus I can't scan negatives I only print.

Get to it! I'd love to see a result.

I have both d76 and Rodinal, and a bunch of colour rolls to develop. Stone's result looks pretty good.

Was your d76 mixed 1:9?

 

[Rick A]

No, I mix 1+3. I had enough D-76 left over from a project to mix one batch and needed to check to see if a camera worked. The whole thing was fortuitous, I may print a couple tomorrow, I'm set up for some 4x5 negatives I shot yesterday.

 

[frank]

Thanks Rick. It's interesting that 2 such different developers and concentrations give good results.

 

[Rick A]

Color film has a B&W layer, so just about any common developer will work. Dektol is probably the best developer for it as it gives high contrast, which you need to print through the orange mask, well that and high contrast paper.

 

[Rick A]

Here's an example of some of my older stuff souped in D-76
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Tobychrome]

Funny you should ask today of all days, I just souped a roll in D-76(basically same as ID-11)30 minutes stand at 20c. It came out real good, you just need to fix for longer times than B&W . I might even try to print a few of the frames just for grins. I only developed it to see if a camera was working that the film was already loaded in when I bought it.

How long should I fix it for?

 

[frank]

Color film has a B&W layer, so just about any common developer will work. Dektol is probably the best developer for it as it gives high contrast, which you need to print through the orange mask, well that and high contrast paper.

How about using ilford paper developer?

 

[removed account4]

How about using ilford paper developer?

that will work
i use ansco 130 paper developer.. ( similar to dektol with glycin )
you just have to DILUTE it beyond what you normally dilute it for paper.

good luck frank
john

 

[Rick A]

How long should I fix it for?

I fix for twice what I normally would for standard B&W, or about the same as for T grain film just to be sure it clears properly. The film will look grey when you first pull it from the can, that goes away as it dries.

 

[Rick A]

I have a couple small prints drying from yesterdays roll of color, I'll scan them in later to post here.

 

[Rick A]

These are random images from the film left in an Olympus mju. I don't know how old it is, one shot was from me finishing the roll. Film developed in D-76 1+3-30 min. stand 20c, 30 second initial agitation no more after that. Prints are on Kodabrome F5 paper developed in LPD. I shot one test strip to see if my settings were close enough to make prints, straight scan of prints (4-3.5x5)no manipulation on the enlarger or scanner. I could have used grade 4, but the grade 5 was handy.

 

[frank]

Thanks Rick. I had no idea that images would come out so well. I've been hanging on to old exposed rolls of c41 film, not wanting to pay for commercial processing for film that I've forgotten the subject matter of.

 

[BrianShaw]

Is it my monitor, or is the color a bit washed out?

 

[frank]

I only have a B&W monitor so I can't tell.

 

[scheimfluger_77]

Rick & Stone, nice examples in both instances.

 

[Rick A]

That's okay pard, we (most of us anyhow)know who the rock-head is without saying the name out loud.