Developing expired kodak gold 200 in ilford id-11

Tobychrome · Sep 13, 2014

Hi, is it possible to develop expired kodak gold 200 in ilford id-11 powder developer, if so what are the times I use and temperatures?

wildbill · Sep 13, 2014

I wouldn't recommend it.
I do recommend doing a search for "c41 film in b+w chemicals" since you're aren't the first to ask this.

Tobychrome · Sep 13, 2014

I'm not looking for good results I'm just trying it out

removed account4 · Sep 13, 2014

just process it a little less time you would iso 200 film.
it will be dense, and have a orange mask and be nearly useless to print
you might be able to scan it, but maybe not ... YMMV

good luck !
john

ps. i don't use gold200 but other stuff, and i don't use id11 but other stuff
just the same my recent uploads is loaded with color film processed in b/w chemistry ..

StoneNYC · Sep 13, 2014

I've processed a lot of Gold200 in B&W developer but I always stand develop it for an hour on Rodinal 1:100. So that's my recommendation. I don't use ID-11 so I can't say what to do with that developer. Sorry.

removed account4 · Sep 13, 2014

Tobychrome said:
Hi, is it possible to develop expired kodak gold 200 in ilford id-11 powder developer, if so what are the times I use and temperatures?

you might try a lower contrast developer like caffenol C spiked with some id11 powder
as i mentioned the film with be dense .. and the stain from the caffenol will sort of stain over the orange mask ...
i know someone who used to dip his b/w processed color film in household bleach dilute 1:10 only for a few seconds ( then rewashing it )
it removed the mask ... but it will probably damage your film, he stopped doing it after a while ...

Rick A · Sep 13, 2014

Funny you should ask today of all days, I just souped a roll in D-76(basically same as ID-11)30 minutes stand at 20c. It came out real good, you just need to fix for longer times than B&W . I might even try to print a few of the frames just for grins. I only developed it to see if a camera was working that the film was already loaded in when I bought it.

StoneNYC · Sep 13, 2014

Gold200 in my stand developed Rodinal 1:100

I figured actual examples would help you instead of a bunch of random suggestions.

Ignore the perf holes, it's not bromide drag it's the film gate of the contex contamatic being off center.

Rick A · Sep 13, 2014

I would post examples of mine, but it's still drying plus I can't scan negatives I only print.

frank · Sep 13, 2014

Rick A said:
I would post examples of mine, but it's still drying plus I can't scan negatives I only print.

Get to it! I'd love to see a result.

I have both d76 and Rodinal, and a bunch of colour rolls to develop. Stone's result looks pretty good.

Was your d76 mixed 1:9?

Rick A · Sep 13, 2014

No, I mix 1+3. I had enough D-76 left over from a project to mix one batch and needed to check to see if a camera worked. The whole thing was fortuitous, I may print a couple tomorrow, I'm set up for some 4x5 negatives I shot yesterday.

frank · Sep 13, 2014

Thanks Rick. It's interesting that 2 such different developers and concentrations give good results.

Rick A · Sep 13, 2014

Color film has a B&W layer, so just about any common developer will work. Dektol is probably the best developer for it as it gives high contrast, which you need to print through the orange mask, well that and high contrast paper.

Rick A · Sep 13, 2014

Here's an example of some of my older stuff souped in D-76
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Tobychrome · Sep 14, 2014

Rick A said:
Funny you should ask today of all days, I just souped a roll in D-76(basically same as ID-11)30 minutes stand at 20c. It came out real good, you just need to fix for longer times than B&W . I might even try to print a few of the frames just for grins. I only developed it to see if a camera was working that the film was already loaded in when I bought it.

How long should I fix it for?

frank · Sep 14, 2014

Rick A said:
Color film has a B&W layer, so just about any common developer will work. Dektol is probably the best developer for it as it gives high contrast, which you need to print through the orange mask, well that and high contrast paper.

How about using ilford paper developer?

removed account4 · Sep 14, 2014

frank said:
How about using ilford paper developer?

that will work
i use ansco 130 paper developer.. ( similar to dektol with glycin )
you just have to DILUTE it beyond what you normally dilute it for paper.

good luck frank
john

Rick A · Sep 14, 2014

Tobychrome said:
How long should I fix it for?

I fix for twice what I normally would for standard B&W, or about the same as for T grain film just to be sure it clears properly. The film will look grey when you first pull it from the can, that goes away as it dries.

Rick A · Sep 14, 2014

I have a couple small prints drying from yesterdays roll of color, I'll scan them in later to post here.

Rick A · Sep 14, 2014

These are random images from the film left in an Olympus mju. I don't know how old it is, one shot was from me finishing the roll. Film developed in D-76 1+3-30 min. stand 20c, 30 second initial agitation no more after that. Prints are on Kodabrome F5 paper developed in LPD. I shot one test strip to see if my settings were close enough to make prints, straight scan of prints (4-3.5x5)no manipulation on the enlarger or scanner. I could have used grade 4, but the grade 5 was handy.

frank · Sep 14, 2014

Thanks Rick. I had no idea that images would come out so well. I've been hanging on to old exposed rolls of c41 film, not wanting to pay for commercial processing for film that I've forgotten the subject matter of.

BrianShaw · Sep 14, 2014

Is it my monitor, or is the color a bit washed out?

frank · Sep 14, 2014

I only have a B&W monitor so I can't tell.

scheimfluger_77 · Sep 15, 2014

Rick & Stone, nice examples in both instances.

Rick A · Sep 15, 2014

That's okay pard, we (most of us anyhow)know who the rock-head is without saying the name out loud.

Developing expired kodak gold 200 in ilford id-11

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