Developing B&W in Drum

[braxus]

Looking at the pictures of mine, I would assume this tank only holds one sheet of film per development? It only fits in horizontally, and by that method, it looks like only one sheet will fit.

What is the method to developing the film with this drum? How much fluid do I fill it with? I assume you have to keep rolling it during the entire time? The gasket on the lid is a little deformed. Is it still possible to get replacements for it new?

 

[Griffin Miller]

Nowadays, these drums are used primarily for processing paper using the RA-4 process. I believe you used to be able to process large format film in them, but something about the film in production today has changed meaning you'll get less than ideal results if developed in this drum. I'm sure someone out there has much more info than me on the topic but this is what I found out recently in searching for one of these drums

 

[shutterfinger]

If you load film in the tank use the sections with ribs as they will allow chemicals to both sides of the film. Load with the emulsion toward the center of the tank.
Continuous agitation for color films can be one direction rotation but B&W will require reversing direction at intervals so that an equal number of turns are achieved during the development stage. I use JOBO 25xx with a manual rotary base and reverse direction every minute.
What is the diameter of the tank and what is the distance between the 3 large ribs?

 

[braxus]

Tank is 5 inches in diameter. Internal ribs are 10 inches apart in total.

 

[MattKing]

These links may help: https://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/unicolor-print-drum.2491/

 

[mshchem]

You can develop film, they were designed for amateur color printing in the 70's and 80's. As long as you don't have a temperature issue. Unicolor sold a nice roller that would go back and forth, this avoids streaks. I've used for single sheets of 8x10 film. The gaskets are something you will have to find. They stopped production years ago.

 

[138S]

What is the method to developing the film with this drum? How much fluid do I fill it with? I assume you have to keep rolling it during the entire time? The gasket on the lid is a little deformed. Is it still possible to get replacements for it new?

I'd say that in post 5 you got all key information about this drum.

There has been some controversy about what sheet development way is the "best"...

Also last edition of The Film Development Cookbok has raised some controversy about "rotary vs other"

Rotary may raise "general stain" (fog) with certain pyro developers if some precautions not taken, like adding anti-oxydation additives, replacing developer in the mid of the development, decreasing roto speed, adding inert gas in the drum or simply using a pyro developer specially formulated ...


Also benefical edge effects are not there with continuous roto agitation... which is a least concern for LF becuase tipical enlargement ratio is lower than in (say) 35mm frames.

The rotary development allows easier "one shot" developer usage, as lower amounts are required than for tanks, but you may also use a paper safe (like a daylight tank) to perform tray development with minimal chem amounts.

Personally, I would use the tank you show for stand development, using very diluted developer to fill the tank, that it can be really great for certain situations, basicly those methods Steve Sherman teaches in his "EMA" workshops, perhaps not for every situation/photographer but IMO a nice technique to investigate to at least have some great fun, and of course a technique delivering unique results we may love.

 

[ic-racer]

These day those old color print drums are frequently used for sheet film. My recommendation, based on a lot of experience processing sheet film in paper drums, is to remove the film from the drum after the fixing stage and re-fix to make sure the back of the film clears. Then wash as usual. I have achieved excellent results that way.

 

[Tel]

I've used Unicolor drums with the roller base exclusively for my LF film development for ten years or more. They come in several sizes, but the smallest one is the most useful. You can do four 4x5 sheets or two 5x7 sheets or one 8x10. (If you do 4x5 you'll want a little rubber separator to keep the sheets apart--it slides onto the v-shaped standoff in the middle.) They're economical too--you only need 300ml of chemistry. I've never had a problem with coverage and I've found that a minute or so of hot water before the developer warms the drum nicely in a cool room. I always do one-shot developing when processing b&w; I reuse C-41 developer for color work. I should say that I tend to prefer HC-110, R09 and Unicolor or FPP C-41 chems. I haven't experimented with many other developers or processes in these drums, but for conventional sheet-film development they're excellent.

 

[GKC]

You'll likely have to make your own replacement gaskets but it can be done.
Unicolor drums are very convenient when travelling since you can develop film in your hotel room

 

[Rick A]

I use 8x10 size Unicolor drums for processing my sheet film. I can run 4-4x5's or 2-5x7's at a time, and obviously only one 8x10. I run them on a self reversing motor base, very handy.

 

[TmRn]

There was also a Beseler drum. Works great with the motor base.

 

[Bob S]

There was also a Beseler drum. Works great with the motor base.

Summary in Canada made the Beseler, the Omega and the Unicolor drums. They owned the patent.

 

[braxus]

Would 300ml of fluid be correct for the drum with 8x10? I know its not supposed to completely fill the drum, but just slosh around in there.

 

[MattKing]

Those links I posted include quantity recommendations.
For 8x10 prints, I used to use 60 ml in similar tanks. That was using the tanks on a continuously rotating and reversing base.
60 ml is probably not enough X-Tol to avoid developer exhaustion.