Developing ancient rolls of ORWO NP 20 exposed in an ancient camera

WPPD25 Self Portrait

A
WPPD25 Self Portrait

  • 1
  • 0
  • 0
Wife

A
Wife

  • 4
  • 1
  • 66
Dragon IV 10.jpg

A
Dragon IV 10.jpg

  • 4
  • 0
  • 73
DRAGON IV 08.jpg

A
DRAGON IV 08.jpg

  • 1
  • 0
  • 42

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
197,879
Messages
2,766,296
Members
99,494
Latest member
kri11e
Recent bookmarks
0

bonk

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2007
Messages
214
Format
Med. Format Pan
I have found two ancient rolls of ORWO NP 20 (ASA 80), probably from the 80ies, and exposed them using an Agfa Clack, wich has only two exposure setting, cloudy and sunny. So everything is probably very incorrectly exposed.

The only developer I currently have at hand is X-Tol. What would be a safe and good way to develop them?

Stand development? Extreme push processing? Got some recipes for me?

Thanks!
 

removed account4

Subscriber
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
29,833
Format
Hybrid
hello bonk
great to see you here !
I would not use x tol, if you have PRINT developer
you might think about using that ! I know I didn't answer your question
but xtol ( at least for me ) is a low contrast developer, and with old film that is 35-40 year old
it will be foggy and lacking contrast to start so with x tol the cards are stacked against you
I am not sure where you are, but I would look for PRINT developer like DEKTOL or something similar
all purpose plain vanilla print developer .. I would dilute it 1:5 and process your film in it for about 7 or 8 minutes
but that's me, I am sure there are others here who will be happy you use x tol and suggest insanity like stand developing :smile:
I look forward to the images you are able to rescue !
John
 
Last edited:

Nicholas Lindan

Advertiser
Advertiser
Joined
Sep 2, 2006
Messages
4,222
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
Format
Multi Format
Well, I think you are about to become the world's expert on developing 40 year old Orwo.

I'd use the Xtol times for Plus-X, given as 8:15 for Xtol 1:1 in the usual Massive Development Chart (as finding Kodak data sheets is becoming increasingly difficult). If it were me I would also add 50% and try 12 minutes for the first roll and then adjust for the second. Agitate as usual, 1 inversion/second for 30 seconds and then for 5 seconds every 30 seconds. I've never fathomed the idea that Kodak didn't know what they were talking about when they came up with their agitation instructions...
 

MattKing

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
52,227
Location
Delta, BC Canada
Format
Medium Format

removed account4

Subscriber
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
29,833
Format
Hybrid
I've never fathomed the idea that Kodak didn't know what they were talking about when they came up with their agitation instructions...

LOL. their extreme dilutions when Xtol came out were one of the things that caused "sudden death". they suggested people dilute the developer 1:10
I think the expression is "mistakes were made" ...
==

good luck BONK with your xtol !
 
OP
OP
bonk

bonk

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2007
Messages
214
Format
Med. Format Pan
hello bonk
great to see you here !
I would not use x tol, if you have PRINT developer
you might think about using that ! I know I didn't answer your question
but xtol ( at least for me ) is a low contrast developer, and with old film that is 35-40 year old
it will be foggy and lacking contrast to start so with x tol the cards are stacked against you
I am not sure where you are, but I would look for PRINT developer like DEKTOL or something similar
all purpose plain vanilla print developer .. I would dilute it 1:5 and process your film in it for about 7 or 8 minutes
but that's me, I am sure there are others here who will be happy you use x tol and suggest insanity like stand developing :smile:
I look forward to the images you are able to rescue !
John

Interesting, why print developer? I’ve never headed about that approach.
 

removed account4

Subscriber
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
29,833
Format
Hybrid
print developer will be more active so you will develop it for less time
D72 ( DEKTOL ) and ansco 130 have additives in them so they restrain fog a little
I have been using ansco130 or something like it ( gaf universal ) or dektol / d72 with film, all kinds, for years
between 20-25 .. nice contrast low fog .. perfect for old expired film ( I use expired film exclusively ) ..
vit c developers ( like x tol and caffenol ( I've been using caffenol since 2006 ) tend to be weak, foggy/stainy and low contrast.
but if you add some print developer in there it helps :smile: ( that's what I do .. you can find me in https://www.caffenol-cookbook.com too. :smile: )

have fun!
John
 
Last edited:
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom