Developing ACROS 100. Any comments please.

JammyB · Aug 30, 2014

I am planning to work my way through a few film types to find one that works well for my landscape photography.
So far I've tried Fomapan 100 and 200 (200 is winning at the moment)
I've just picked up a box of ACROS 100 to try. I'd like to run my dev schedule past you. I'm using Tetenal ultrfin, Ilfostop and rapid-fix at the moment.
I'd appreciate any comments. many of you seem to know from experience far more than the data sheets give.

My water is hard (if that's significant)

Tetenal ultrafin - 3.5min @ 20'c adj for 1min then 10 sec every min. (3.5 seems short to me but that's what Massive dev chart states)

Ilford ilfostop - 1 min @ 20'c (The acros 100 data sheet recommends "'a 1.5% acetic acid solution" Ilfstop is a citric acid stop bath, is this significant?)

Ilford Rapid Fixer - 5 min @ 20'c

Wash - 10 min in tap water, and a final dunk in Kodak Photo-flo

kreeger · Aug 30, 2014

Jammy, could you tell us what format of film you are using?

Also, is this the only developer you use or is there another you use.

JammyB · Aug 30, 2014

120 6x6

Ultrafin is all I have at the moment.
Ive been pleased with the results so far.

Thanks

Richard S. (rich815) · Aug 30, 2014

How do we know what results you want? Not to be flippant but my desire for moderate contrast and widest tones might conflict with your desire for more contrast and ultra sharp look and accutance. Plus I more often scan than print in the darkroom, which matters. I'd recommend start with Massive Development Chart times and tweak away and adjust to find what you like.

pdeeh · Aug 30, 2014

Never used Ultrafin.

What matters with stop is that it's acid, whether it's Citric or Acetic won't make any difference to your pictures. Or you can stop in water only with three changes of water for half a minute. The specific incantation depends on your belief system.

a five minute fix will probably be fine but you really need to do a clearing test to establish the correct fix time. That's been covered a zillion times - have a search for "clearing test" here.

Washing ... there are several extremely long threads on the ins and outs of washing. I and many others use the "Ilford method" ... you can search for that too.

The trouble with asking questions at APUG is that you will probably get any amount of friendly, helpful and well-informed advice,most of which will conflict

JammyB · Aug 30, 2014

I've already learnt to ask questions and glean information rather than expect absolute answers.

I too am scanning at the moment and would like a linear(ish) response.

dpurdy · Aug 30, 2014

Well isn't ultrafin an especially fine grain developer? I have never used it. One advantage of Acros is it's fine grain and the ability to process it in a grainier and higher acutance style developer without much grain increase. I process it in Xtol for clear watery highlights and long tonal scale, and I process it in Beutlers for exaggerated sharpness affect. It also gives long scale and sharpness in Pyrocat.

MattKing · Aug 30, 2014

A 3.5 minute development time is a potential source of trouble. Do you have any options for a more dilute mix?

I believe Freestyle has a Tetenal download sheet on its listing for this developer that gives times based on which contrast index you want and which agitation you are using.

A ten minute wash is very short, unless you are using a washaid like Hypo Clearing agent.

RattyMouse · Aug 30, 2014

I find that Acros' wash water comes out tinted pink. I wash extensively until this pink color has totally disappeared. It takes a lot of washing until the water empties from the tank colorless.

Tony-S · Aug 30, 2014

Have a read here, as an FYI.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

miha · Aug 31, 2014

JammyB said:
Tetenal ultrafin - 3.5min @ 20'c adj for 1min then 10 sec every min. (3.5 seems short to me but that's what Massive dev chart states)

3,5 mins is for constant agitation, or every 3 sec for low beta. Unfortunately TT doesn't list other data for ACROS. See page 5: http://www.tetenal.com/opener1.htm?file=imaging_shop/images/00001809.pdf

JammyB · Aug 31, 2014

miha said:
3,5 mins is for constant agitation, or every 3 sec for low beta. Unfortunately TT doesn't list other data for ACROS. See page 5: http://www.tetenal.com/opener1.htm?file=imaging_shop/images/00001809.pdf

You are right. I have fallen for that one before.

There's not a lot to work on is there.

I can try and work somthing out based on the figures that are present
1+20 Times for Delta 100 are 4.5min at 3sec and 10min at 1min (x2.2)

So based on that I could try 3.5*2.2 = 7.7min at 1+20

LJH · Aug 31, 2014

With Ultrafin @ 1:20 and 20 degrees, my time for Acros sheet is 3:50

(I also pre soak).

JammyB · Aug 31, 2014

LJH said:
With Ultrafin @ 1:20 and 20 degrees, my time for Acros sheet is 3:50

(I also pre soak).

I've never worked with sheet. Do you continuously agitate or do you do as with a roll in a small tank?

LJH · Aug 31, 2014

JammyB said:
I've never worked with sheet. Do you continuously agitate or do you do as with a roll in a small tank?

Sorry, I forgot to add this information. This is on a CPP2+...

JammyB · Sep 8, 2014

So I tried it at 7.5 min with some good results.
Soak
1+20 7.5min. Adgitate 60sec and then 10 sec every min.
stop/fix/rinse.
Scanned negs (sorry) with minimal PP.
These were all taken at twilight at Spurn Point on the Humber East-Yorkshire.

Their not all great. I'm definitely under exposing some of them and the scanner really dosent like that.

Alex Muir · Sep 8, 2014

I really like these. Were they made using your Bronica? Did you use a filter such as yellow or orange? I have only used Acros 100 in 35mm, but will be trying it in 120 now.
Alex.

JammyB · Sep 8, 2014

Thanks Alex. They were taken with the Bronica. I didn't use any filters and I only have the 75mm lens at the moment. It's surprisingly versatile.

Athiril · Sep 8, 2014

Xtol Replenished, 24 degrees, 6 minutes.

6x7cm (SFW adjustments made )

crop

Rolfe Tessem · Sep 8, 2014

JammyB,

These all need a little more snap, IMHO, and that is going to be difficult given that you're running out of shadow detail on a few. So yes, more exposure is warranted in the future. Even so, I would pump up the contrast on all of them and then add selective burning on the skies if they become too hot as a result.

Developing ACROS 100. Any comments please.

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