Developing 4X5 Film Options

[KenS]

I've used BTZS tubes for both 4x5 and 8x10 for years. Excellent system. I have a 25 watt light on when they go in the stop and fix. Never had an issue with fogging.

I'm going to 'double-up' on Andrews suggestion/recommendation for BTZS tubes. I use them for both 4x5 and my 8x10 films for years... I only wish they had been available a lot earlier in my life.

Might I also suggest... no, dammit.... recommend that you get extra 'caps'. I process mine in a "Tup**r-ware "tub" filled about half way with water (at temperature). Before starting loading the films for development, the 'extra' caps filled containing fixer are placed (in a row) at the rear of 'water-bath. Usually, my hands know exactly where they are in the dark .. as ready-to-use' fixer containers. The water-bath is used as a 'stop bath' after the used developer is poured out into a beaker to the right-hand side of the water-bath... and the tubes turned up-side down and quickly screwed into the 'standing-by' caps (with fixer)... and are given an 'agitation-type shake' for about 30 seconds and then put into the water-bath and again rotated (in both directions) for the required fixing time.

In the years since investing... and in using my BTZS tubes, I would be more than 'hard-pushed' to go back to either hanger-in-tank OR tray processing of sheet film.

Ken

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Yes, extra caps is a very good idea. Good point, Ken! I have extra caps. I use the standard tray bath that came with the 4x5 tubes. I picked up a tub for the 8x10 tubes at Ikea. I can roll three tubes at a time. Worked very well over the years! I still believe BTZS is the most versatile system out there! How many will allow you to develop 6 different films in 6 different developers at the same time?

 

[Robert Poole]

BTZS tubes. Easy DIY project.

Personally, I don't think you need anything other than trays and practice. They were good enough for Adams and Weston and LF film hasn't changed. If you do Zone work, you can add or pull out films at chosen times to give N-1 and N+ developing much more easily than with any other method. I have a big Jobo but I find it easier to use trays.

Gordon Hutchings recommends trays for pyro too, which I have adopted and the results are great.

Good luck!

 

[nonuniform]

Tray processing. Blackout cloth across my bathroom window, gaffers tape all around the door. I've never had problems scratching film, though with emulsions other than Tri-X I tend to only do 4 sheets at once rather than 6.

 

[Larry the sailor]

Something I tried to instill in my kids and the technicians that worked for me.
There is always more than one way to skin a cat.
Thanks for the input folks. Much appreciated.

 

[f/stopblues]

I've been using a poor man's system for a couple years now.

Basically, it's the tanks and hangers method. My darkroom isn't "film dark" so I bought a big black Rubbermaid type bin with a lid (>$15) and cut a large hole in the side of it for me to reach in. I took a small old film changing bag and cut it in half and taped it thoroughly onto the side of the bin. This way I put my hands into the arm holes and they go into the now light tight bin.

Put supplies into the top, close the lid, command Siri to set the timer on my phone and go to work.

It's not pretty but it works, plus it's mobile and small so I can set up anywhere in the house.

 

[nosmok]

I also don't have a darkroom use an old FR pack film tank which works well for normal thick film, but surprisingly not so well for pack film. I need to soften my agtation technique b/c the thin pack film bows in the center. I think I'll try jnanian's pencil trick next time and see if that helps. Of course it does use a lot of chemistry, about 2 quarts for 12 4x5 sheets, but you can stuff in a slug of closed-cell packing foam if you're not doing 12 at a time.

 

[Ian Burgum]

I've been using the Mod54 for the last couple of months and have had no problems, just practice loading with some dummy sheets first.

I've also made a tube/tank for processing single sheets following this plan:
http://www.photosmith.ca/Library/PV...ank System for 4x5 or Paper Processing 01.pdf
This was really easy and cheap to make

 

[peter k.]

Yes, I made two of these years ago.. and use them for 4x5, 9x12, and 3x4.. and also 2x3 Work very well, one thing I have meant to do all years is get an O ring for them, for they do leak, but not enough to cause any problem, the only thing you loose is a little fixer with B&W

 

[Ian Burgum]

Here in the U.K. the connectors come with a sealing ring built in. So it's just a push fit and everything is sealed.
The way these tubes are made you can use them just like a normal tank. Load in the dark and everything else in daylight. Also if you want you can agitate just like a traditional tank.

 

[Robert Poole]

Here in the U.K. the connectors come with a sealing ring built in. So it's just a push fit and everything is sealed.
The way these tubes are made you can use them just like a normal tank. Load in the dark and everything else in daylight. Also if you want you can agitate just like a traditional tank.

Ian, all

This is an aside perhaps but when using the Mod system, or indeed any other for film processing, do you use Washaid or similar after fixing and before washing? Alan Ross does but Gordon Hutchings does not (fpr PMK). Thoughts please? I have not done so and haven't see the need yet. I do finish with Photoflo.

best
Robert

 

[tezzasmall]

Ian, all

This is an aside perhaps but when using the Mod system, or indeed any other for film processing, do you use Washaid or similar after fixing and before washing? Alan Ross does but Gordon Hutchings does not (fpr PMK). Thoughts please? I have not done so and haven't see the need yet. I do finish with Photoflo.

best
Robert

Hi Robert, this is an old link = November 2016, so you may not get an answer from the op's.

But in answer to your question, I and most others, from what I've read, DON'T use wash-aid etc for film but most do for FB papers, as it cuts down the washing time by a LOT! RC papers are like film and little washing is required.

Terry S

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Ian, all

This is an aside perhaps but when using the Mod system, or indeed any other for film processing, do you use Washaid or similar after fixing and before washing? Alan Ross does but Gordon Hutchings does not (fpr PMK). Thoughts please? I have not done so and haven't see the need yet. I do finish with Photoflo.

best
Robert

Robert,

Gordon Hutchings recommended against using a wash-aid with PMK because it inhibits stain formation (thereby defeating the purpose of using a staining developer). With conventional developers, use of a wash-aid is not harmful, but not necessary. It will shorten wash times a bit, but then there's the cost and the extra step to figure in. Where wash-aid is really needed is with fiber-base papers. Check out Greg Davis' thread on film washing for really good information about just what a wash-aid does when used with film: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/film-washing-test.69416/

Best,

Doremus

 

[M. Axel Wikstrom]

I use a Mod54 for 4x5 and trays for anything bigger.

 

[Adrian Bacon]

I'm hoping to make the move to LF with a 4X5 camera sometime in the next couple of months so I've been researching what I will need to support developing film and the like. Probably stick with B&W for a while. I've got a good bit of experience there with 35mm and 120 so the basics are covered.
I've been looking at options for developing 4X5 film. Anything except tray or "taco" will require at least some outlay of cash.
Kind of looking at what may be the most popular method and easiest to add on to my existing set up.
The Mod54 insert would be easy enough as I already have the correct size Patterson tank.
I've got a couple of Jobo 4X5 reels and the loader widget (came with a big wad of stuff I bought a couple months ago) but I don't have a Jobo tank of the correct size.
The Stearman SP-445 looks interesting and easy enough to use and seems to be well received here.

Any other current production options out there worth considering?

If you have the Paterson tank, just go with the mod54. I have it, it works great, and you can treat it just like you do roll film for agitation.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I tried the trays, and then the Yankee tank for 4"x5" negatives and was not happy with either. FreeStyle took back the Yankee tank and exchanged it for another tank. With FreeStyle working with me, I tried tank after tank each time getting my money credited back under their generous policy. In the end I purchased the Jobo 3010 Drum which I was very happy with. Since then I have gotten consistent and great development results with the 3010 drum. I highly recommend both FreeStyle and the Jobo 3010 Drum.

 

[MattKing]

Ian, all

This is an aside perhaps but when using the Mod system, or indeed any other for film processing, do you use Washaid or similar after fixing and before washing? Alan Ross does but Gordon Hutchings does not (fpr PMK). Thoughts please? I have not done so and haven't see the need yet. I do finish with Photoflo.

best
Robert

I use washaid for film, both to save time (a bit) and water (a fair bit).
But I don't use staining developers.

 

[mshchem]

1/2 gallon hard rubber tanks once apon a time were plentiful used. That's what I used for decades. For black and white so easy. Replenishment super easy. I still have a couple dozen hangers and at a dozen tanks. I have the wonderful Jobo stuff too, reels and Expert drums.
Those Kodak hard rubber tanks sure do work nice if you don't mind the dark. Kinda peaceful really.

 

[StepheKoontz]

Another vote here for the SP-445. I get great results and it is SO easy to use.

Another vote. Super easy to use and perfect negs everytime.

 

[esearing]

I now own 5 of the SP445 tanks and rotate them as I tend to do 2-3 batches in a session. My experience with wash aid/photoflo on this particular tank is that it leaves the residue on the tank and film holders so it can effect your "next batch" if not cleaned aggressively. Use a separate tray if you want to use washaid and dedicate it to that purpose.

 

[norm123]

Another vote for SP-445

 

[Mal Paso]

I like developing in open tanks in the dark. I found 12 Tomorrow Technology 4x5 film hangers, used , on line, that don't hyper develop the edge. I bought 4 Yankee 1/2 gal plastic tanks for $13 ea. new with floating lids and covers. I had to make the hanger rack as no one makes them any more and I found none used.

My old setup used custom plastic hangers that processed 20 sheets in 1/2 gallon

 

[Alex Varas]

Another vote for SP-445... Even I have the 9x12 dry plate holders and I have modified one to develop 2 sheets /plates of 10x15cm and 4 6.5x9 plates at a time.