Developing 2.25x3.25" sheets - tray? Tank? And what to do about long expired film?

Hi,

I have a Mini Speed Graphic and some Tri-X and Plus-X that expired in the late 60s.

I'm not expecting anything *really* fantastic from the sheets, but I figure there's no harm in going through a few sheets and seeing if they're usable. But how should I process them? There aren't dedicated tanks for this size of sheet film, that I know of, like 4x5. Should I dev them in trays, or could I free-float them in the Arista tank I've been using for 35mm and 120 (spooled of course)?

And is there a starting point for processing film this long expired? Since it's sheets, I can just process the first with standard times, but if anyone has a rule of thumb that would be better to start with, I'd appreciate it.

-steve

You might want to search the term "taco" for a developing method that might work with this film. Most discussion will concern 4x5, but I don't see why it wouldn't work for this size as well.

Baby Speed Graphic, is what I always remember it being called. Nice camera. I think my FR sheet film tank is adjustable although if you don't have, does you no good. Tray works good if that is an option, and since you might have some trial and error with developer times. What developer do you have on hand or do you plan to buy something that may be better than what you have?

fotch said:

Baby Speed Graphic, is what I always remember it being called. Nice camera. I think my FR sheet film tank is adjustable although if you don't have, does you no good. Tray works good if that is an option, and since you might have some trial and error with developer times. What developer do you have on hand or do you plan to buy something that may be better than what you have?

Click to expand...

Trays are definitely an option, I have more of them than I need. The "taco method" mentioned does seem good, but I might as well try it in trays.

I have Arista liquid, it's a hydroquinone based solution. It's been doing well with the stuff I have around here (Neopan 35mm, Fomapan 120) so I plan to stick with that for a while as I continue to learn and play with processing. Time advised on the bottle is ~9min for medium format stuff.

Hi Steve

try loading a sheet into your normal 120 rollfilm reel. I used to shoot sheet film in a RB occasionally when I only needed to shoot 1 or 2 frames, or when I needed to take just over 1 roll of film. Rather than waste a roll of 120 I would drop a sheet of film inot a roll back, and then load it onto the outside of the spool after I'd loaded the 120 into the reel (reels are designed to take 220 - thats 2 120 films, so there is plenty of room)..

The only thing I cant remember is whether the reels take 2.25 or 2.5 wide sheets (I got caught out and ordered the wrong box of sheet film once...). But even this isn't really a problem - you can modify a reel to take 2.25 wide sheets - nothing a hacksaw, glue and 15 minuets won't fix.....

I should add I use a Jobo reel to process 5x4 sheet, and have also processed 6 sheets of 6x9cm sheet film in a standard Patterson daylight tank without a problem....

The one trick to remember - if you are doing rotary processing then use a pre-wash of water for 5 minutes - this gives you even development. If doing normal inversion processing this isn't necessary

Cheers

Andrew

Hi Steve

as for out of date film? I shoot with 10 year old T Max without a problem - I have used up to 20 year old B & W film without any fogging issues....but it's best to test first to make sure the film is good..

Cheers

2x3" sheet film is a bit narrower than 120, so it won't normally fit on a 120 reel.

The Nikor sheet film tank is adjustable to all sizes down to 2x3". The Yankee tank will do it as well, but I don't care for the Yankee tank. There are also tanks and hangers, but for some reason, it is very easy to find 2x3" filmholders (I developed a huge surplus at one time as people seemed to be giving them to me with other things, when they found out I was shooting 2x3"), but it is not so easy to find 2x3" hangers. It took me a while to develop a collection of them.

I've done it in trays, and it is pretty easy compared to larger formats.

Very old film will likely be foggy. I've played with some of it (search on "film archaeology" to find the thread where I've discussed my experiments with ancient film), and it's kind of interesting for the sake of knowledge, but it's not the best way to make good photographs.

The best film option is to wait for the Ilford special order period and get some FP4+ or HP5+, but bear in mind that special order 2x3" film from Ilford is about the same cost per sheet as 4x5", which is available off the shelf. I'm not sure which of the East European manufacturers are currently cutting 2x3", but I've used Efke 100, which I like, and I think some of the Foma films are available in 2x3".

There's also a Nikor rack for 2x3 sheet film, which goes in an 18 ounce 3-1/4" diameter Nikor tank. Basically looks like a pair of waffle-french-fry cutters spaced by flat sheets of metal.

It's too tall for the normal Q15 tank (one 120, two 135 size), sometimes it was sold with a tank extender, sometimes it was sold with the Q18 tank.

Shows up a few times a year on eBay, doesn't go particularly expensive. A lot less developer required than with the big 4x5 sheet film tank.

Until you find it, taco style should be good. Use HC-110 to tame the base fog, the Plus-X should be decent, don't be surprised by base fog of 0.7 density on the Tri-X.

Steve-

That FR tank is the way to go; it's worth checking the 'net' for availability

John

I also have a baby Graflex with the 6 sheet Grafmatic film holder. Never used 6x9 film but have used a 4x5 tank that adjust down for 2.25. I beleive Arista EDU/Fompan sell 6x9 sheets too.