developer type? brands make a differance?

[seanE]

Hi, I have some liford developer and fixer, Il bee useing it with my lifer paper, I was going to use it to develop some fomapan 400 35mm film. Can I do that? I see a lot of people talking of what developer they used when taking a shot, Is it important, Or is developer developer as long as you get the times right.

 

[markbarendt]

Film and paper developers are different but one can be used on the "other".

Once you do a batch of developer on one material (say paper) don't use that batch of the developer on the other (say film) because the materials leave things behind.

This track may require more experimentation on the alternate material.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Hi, I have some liford developer and fixer, Il bee useing it with my lifer paper, I was going to use it to develop some fomapan 400 35mm film. Can I do that? I see a lot of people talking of what developer they used when taking a shot, Is it important, Or is developer developer as long as you get the times right.

as an example:theoretically there is no difference between ID11,D76 or a D76 home brew from the published formula;In practice, I also never noticed a difference as long as it was diluted 1+1 and used fat the same temp and for the same time.that said,there are differences between film developers such as Xtol and Rodinal of course but they all work well when used according to manufacturer's recommendations.I gave up looking for the magic developer bullet and concluded;there is none;just a marketing ploy

 

[John Bragg]

Best to use film dev for film and paper dev for paper. Just because you can use one for another purpose, doesnt mean that you should, unless you have time on your hands and like tinkering. Pick a general purpose film dev and learn to use it well, before trying the more esoteric choices out there. D76 / ID-11 is a good place to start, or a liquid concentrate like HC-110 or Ilfotec-HC.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Medium and large format films can be developed in paper developer however at a lower concentration. For example you could use something like Dektol (D-72) at 1+5, 1+7 or 1+9 concentrations. Paper developers would usually produce too much grain for 35 mm films. They are useful when you do want a grain effect in 35 mm.

 

[Jim Noel]

Film and paper developers are different but one can be used on the "other".

Once you do a batch of developer on one material (say paper) don't use that batch of the developer on the other (say film) because the materials leave things behind.

This track may require more experimentation on the alternate material.

Paper developer will develop film, but most film developers won't develop paper unless you have a few hours for each exposure.

 

[seanE]

How long do you get out of developer? I see people saying one go, is that right? if I was to develop two 4x5 sheets id hardly have to throw the whole lot out would I?

 

[jeffreyg]

You could tray develop in a smaller tray using less solution than a tank.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[wildbill]

How long do you get out of developer? I see people saying one go, is that right? if I was to develop two 4x5 sheets id hardly have to throw the whole lot out would I?

varies wildly with type of developer. Try the search window.

 

[MattKing]

How long do you get out of developer? I see people saying one go, is that right? if I was to develop two 4x5 sheets id hardly have to throw the whole lot out would I?

Are you fairly active in the number of rolls and sheets you expose?

If so, I would suggest a replenishment regime. That involves re-using developer that is replenished each time.

X-Tol and T-Max RS are two great candidates. There are instructions for replenishing Ilford ID-11 on the Ilford website.

 

[seanE]

can you use it to process 35mm then 4x5 then paper? as it gets older and less effective, I herd of a photographer who used old developer to get an ''artistic'' grainy look, This was a while back on the radio so I might be wrong it just caught my attention:confused: I'm also new to the whole thing so still getting my footing. Also is there any ''safe'' light that can be used with modern B/W film? or is it feeling around in the dark the whole way.

 

[wildbill]

developer is cheap. when in doubt, throw it out.
no safelights for modern film. get some night vision goggles. (threads on that already too)

 

[seanE]

cool so infrared is ok? I havant been in the darkroom yet, I have a few rolls of film to be developed and want to print off a good few, What I'm trying to figure out is when to be in doubt, throw it out every time? Or would you get one, two, and then notice ''grainer paler'' images?

 

[Gerald C Koch]

no safelights for modern film. get some night vision goggles

Because of the longer wavelength of infrared light you will not see the detail that you might expect from visible light when using IR goggles. I would suggest skipping goggles and getting a stainless tank and reel for 35 mm or 120 film film. Then you only have to put the film on the reel put it in the tank and then you can turn on the lights. There are also tanks for 4x5 sheets.

 

[wildbill]

I wouldnt' suggest infrared goggles if they didn't work.
I don't see where you stated which developer you are using. Developer's aren't all the same. Use the search window and read about what you are using. Chances are, someone else has asked all of your questions here before. READthere was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[pbromaghin]

cool so infrared is ok? I havant been in the darkroom yet, I have a few rolls of film to be developed and want to print off a good few, What I'm trying to figure out is when to be in doubt, throw it out every time? Or would you get one, two, and then notice ''grainer paler'' images?

Best to go to Kodak or Ilford site and get the pdf data sheets for their developers. They will answer most of the questions you have.

For example:
Here's Kodak's D-76 http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.pdf

Here's the similar Ilford ID-11 http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2011427133131459.pdf

 

[Gerald C Koch]

There are several classes of film developers. Among these are general purpose developers recommended for most films. Examples would be D-76 and HC-110.

 

[Arklatexian]

Developer type?

Hi, I have some liford developer and fixer, Il bee useing it with my lifer paper, I was going to use it to develop some fomapan 400 35mm film. Can I do that? I see a lot of people talking of what developer they used when taking a shot, Is it important, Or is developer developer as long as you get the times right.

Back in the olden times, there was a B&W saying: "All paper developers will process film but not all film developers will process paper". I'm not too sure if this still applies and it was never meant to be used if quality was an issue. (There are a few developers that do a great job in either if you get the dilutions and times correct, as you said). However, if it were me, I would find a film developer that develops film like I like it and a paper developer that does likewise with paper. As to which brands can make a difference, I think that your personal experiece and opinion is more important there.........Regards!

 

[ericdan]

You should never used anything other than HC-110.

 

[Xmas]

Hi, I have some liford developer and fixer, Il bee useing it with my lifer paper, I was going to use it to develop some fomapan 400 35mm film. Can I do that? I see a lot of people talking of what developer they used when taking a shot, Is it important, Or is developer developer as long as you get the times right.

You omitted which Ilford developer you have.

The only problems you might have are

- no information on time and temperature
- Foma don't preharden film and if the developer employs a carbonate an acid stop or fix may cause emulsion damage. A water stop and close temper very desirable precaution.

The developer choice is not that critical fixing and washing is.

I use Foma a lot and never have problems with Borax or KOH alkalis.

 

[seanE]

I have liford ID-11

 

[Xmas]

I haver lliford ID-11

You can either use it:

Dilute 1+1 or 1+2 or 1+3 and discard or
Neat and pour it back in bottle

Most people use a tank load in dark screw on lid switch on light.

 

[MattKing]

You can either use it:

Dilute 1+1 or 1+2 or 1+3 and discard or
Neat and pour it back in bottle

Most people use a tank load in dark screw on lid switch on light.

Or, use it in a replenishment regime: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20129191256261906.pdf