I note that you asked a similar question in 2016 and from what I interpret from your reply to, I think, Ian Grant you seem to have chosen Pyrocat HD. Can I ask what you found to be not ideal from that developer?
With a low ISO film with less grain and assuming Pyrocat HD after trying it was not your ideal developer, I'd be tempted to use the likes of Perceptol or if you make your own, good old D23
Can you say what qualities you want the negative to have such as more or less grain, more or less accutance etc Otherwise we are "punching at the air" i.e. advising something which might not be what you are seeking
pentaxuser
Can you say what qualities you want the negative to have such as more or less grain, more or less accutance etc Otherwise we are "punching at the air" i.e. advising something which might not be what you are seeking
As already mentioned, for lower contrast in a high contrast situation -- deserts in the full sun -- you have basically already under-exposed the film somewhat. That typically means over-developing the film -- which increases the contrast.
In your situation, the solution is easy -- but time-consuming. Take a few tests shots at ISO 50, on a new roll, in a similar situation -- as close as you can get -- and develop them as you might expect (or as others advise). If the results are OK, you are all set. If they are too contrasty, take another set of shots -- only a few are needed -- and adjust the development (change the developer, dilution, time, method, etc.). Rinse and repeat.
Another point to consider, desert scenes normally should have plenty of contrast, and you can always use a lower contrast paper & developer/method.
I'd run some easy tests before you develop any of the film.
If these are still the rolls from 2016, then prepare yourself to find nothing left of the images on there.
Being new to the community I was not sure whether my question in the older thread from 2016 would reach Mr. Grant. For this reason I started this thread.
Moreover, my rolls are very precious to me, I don't want to ruin them. For this reason, I wanted some valuable suggestions from the experienced contributors here.
John Finch has a good set of videos on how to deal with the contrast of Pan F+
Thanks for the intro to John Finch, Alex. he’s new to me.
I have read many times that D-23 is "softer working" than D-76. When the two developers are used to get the same contrast index, they are quite similar. For the Pan F+ at box speed, I would try Perceptol 1:3. I used to develop it in Microdol-X 1:3 with good results.
I have read many times that D-23 is "softer working" than D-76. When the two developers are used to get the same contrast index, they are quite similar. For the Pan F+ at box speed, I would try Perceptol 1:3. I used to develop it in Microdol-X 1:3 with good results.
Any implication on using perceptol for a roll exposed at box speed? Heard that with Perceptol made made you lose about one step of speed.
I have just exposed a few rolls of Pan F plus at box speed (ISO 50). The rolls were shot at a cold desert more than 10,000 feet above sea level. The sky was clear and the sun blazing, sunlight bouncing off the rocks and snow. Can you please suggest options for the best possible development of my rolls? Please mention the developer and the development time.
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