• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Developer Shelf Life (Tmax, Rodinal, PMK Pyro)

shelldawg

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
28
Location
Morgan Hill,
Format
Med. Format Pan
Does anyone know what the shelf life is of an open bottle of Tmax developer? I've been noticing that when I process Tmax/Tri-x films from an open bottle of developer thats been around for several weeks, I get minor streaking which essentially destroys half a roll of 120 film. I don't seem to run into this problem when the bottle of developer is freshly open.

Additionally, I've recently purchased Rodinal and PMK Pyro (liquid form) and was wondering if anyone knows if there is a shelf life for opened bottles for them, as well?

Regards,
Shailendra
 
Rodinal=Forever
 
There are a few threads floating around about the shelf life of Rodinal, it'll last quite a while to say the least, here is one thread about it (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 
MrMushroomMan said:
There are a few threads floating around about the shelf life of Rodinal, it'll last quite a while to say the least, here is one thread about it (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
Click to expand...

Thanks, but is it a common thing for opened Tmax developer or other types of developers to deteriorate in quality over time?
 
df cardwell said:
Rodinal=Forever
Click to expand...
I always want to answer the Rodinal shelf life question this way:
"No one knows yet, it was only invented in 1891."

Now that that's taken care of, I can get on with my life.

Lee
 
Other than HC110 I can't think of another developer that'll last a decade or more past it's expiration date...but then I'm a n00b when it comes to those sorts of things as I haven't let my developers sit around long enough to find out
 


I just got this question answered, kinda, so I can pass on, what I learned, in summary. Developers decompose in a mix of water and air, highly concentrated developers like Rodinal and HC110 kept in full bottles will last a very long time, some people claim that Rodinal stored this way will last decades.

Lpwer concentration developers like D76 stock solution, in a partly full bottle, will possibly last a few weeks. Working strength solutions of film developers, in less then full bottles should be tossed after 24 hours.

You can emulate a full bottle 2 ways, one is that you can use an accordion type bottle, or you can go to a craft store and pick up a few bags of glass beads, When you use up some developer, you put in enough glass beads to bring the level of liquid to the top of the bottle, then seal the bottle again.
 

Hi Paul,

is it possible that the Tmax developer deteriorates somewhat over a period of a few weeks once its opened? I don't mix my dilutions until I'm ready to use, but it puzzles me that the stock solution doesn't last more than a few weeks. Maybe this is normal of Tmax developer.
 
I'm not even bothering tracking how long HC110 lasts until the Rodinal guys say their's has gone bad.

Then I'll start tracking how long HC110 lasts.

Mike
 
Dear Shailendra,

I have used Tmax developer that has been opened for as much as a year without it causing problems with 35mm or sheet film (yes, I know you aren't supposed to use it for sheet film).

Neal Wydra
 
Neal said:
Dear Shailendra,

I have used Tmax developer that has been opened for as much as a year without it causing problems with 35mm or sheet film (yes, I know you aren't supposed to use it for sheet film).

Neal Wydra
Click to expand...

Neal,

perhaps my agitation process isn't ideal, which is resulting in getting streaking across the 120 film...thanks for the feedback.
 

Kodak says that the concentrate should last 2 years, according to the tech sheet, but that could be under ideal conditions. Ideal conditions would be a full well stoppered glass bottle. It also depends on how old the concentrate is, if the dealer doesn't move a lot of it, it could be old stock. Check the bottle for a best before date, although many products like this have a sell before date on the original carton, which the dealer has probably tossed.

Most concentrates come in plastic bottles, and some plastics hold liquid well, but may let oxygen pass through. Best is to find a place that sells dark coloured glass bottles, with good sealing caps, then use these for the concentrate, us glass beads to keep the liquid level at the cap. Lots of folks say Rodinal, stored that way will last a considerably long time, like decades.
 
We use HC110 at school, and we mix 20 oz. to five gallons for a 1:31 working solution mix (dilution B) which mostly gets cut in half again for "dilution H" which Kodak doesn't support but it works fine. Since we get 16 oz (or is it 12 oz.) bottles of the concentrate, we usually have an open bottle sitting around. Even after summer quarter ends, and we have 6 weeks when nobody's in the lab, the concentrate seems to survive. It may even darken some in color. We do keep it in a dark place (IMPORTANT!!!). The working solution won't hold up for that long; in fact, it goes off in a couple of weeks.

I suspect your comment about agitation could be the key to it. Usually, overagitation is the culprit. You can't rule out agitation unless you always do that the same and still get different results one time to the next. Often, these things have many hidden variables.
 
Good Evening,

I agree with those who have no problem with the T-Max concentrate lasting very well.

Neal--I agree: never a problem for me with regular T-Max and sheet film.

Konical
 
df cardwell said:
Rodinal=Forever
Click to expand...

Well, what'ya think Mr. Cardwell.

I've got two 100cc bottles I inherited from my stepfather (He died. Otherwise, he'd never have let them go). They are the old brown glass ones with the rubber stoppers designed for hypodermic syringes. Since our cat, Scooter (Now, because he's old and deserves extra respect -- MR Scooter) has developed diabetes, we both have some of those syringes around, and we can't really go anywhere because we have to give him his shots 2x/day. I'm looking for productive ways to spend my time instead of taking long trips to Mexico in the camper. So, I think I'll use'm. There seems to be a crystaline deposit - not on the bottom, but on the glass on the sides, sort of in the pattern that the divine one(s?) chose grace the surface of that amazing Graphic Display Animal, the glorious Reticulated Giraffe. Do you suppose those bottles might still be any good? My guess is that they most likely are. I mean, that is actually LESS than 100 years old unless they were dumping old stock!

Imogen Cunningham on Rodinal: "I wonder why I quit using it."

What fun. I remeber Adox KB14 was spectacular with the stuff, and one of my favorites with it was Plus X. The grain structure, even if there were no image, would have been enough!
 
bowzart said:
I remeber Adox KB14 was spectacular with the stuff, and one of my favorites with it was Plus X. The grain structure, even if there were no image, would have been enough!
Click to expand...
I've done a lot of Panatomic-X with Rodinal. One of my favorites. Had similar, wonderful results with Efke 25 in the last couple of years, and have done a bit of Pan-F+ as well. Slow films with the more dilute end of the normal range (1+100) give amazing acutance, and less grain than some would have you believe.

Lee
 
davidamosphotography said:
How many sheet (4x5) pieces of film should you develop before dumping the diluted developer.?
Click to expand...

I'd do one run of 5 or 6 sheets in a 5x7 tray filled about half full. Then dump and start again fresh. I suppose you could increase the time for a second run, but I wouldn't bother with that. It would be a lot of trouble to figure it out for different numbers of sheets.
 
Bowz: test drive the Rodinal ! Worst case, it'll have lost some oomph.

Keep Mr. Scooter out of it though !

d
 
df cardwell said:
Bowz: test drive the Rodinal ! Worst case, it'll have lost some oomph.

Keep Mr. Scooter out of it though !

d
Click to expand...

I don't think he'd drink it, but he has been known to eat rubber bands.

I've been reconstructing the likely origin of that Rodinal. I don't see how it could be much newer than maybe 60 years. That would put its manufacture at about half way between now and 1891!
 
bowzart said:
Guess I'll have to run down to the corner for some Panatomic-X!
Click to expand...
Be sure to get the fresh stuff.

Did I mention that I wear the bottoms of my trousers rolled?

Lee
 
PICTURES ! SHOW US PICTURES !

Dead Link Removed
 
Hello everyone!
Sorry for picking up antique topic.
Instructions on Tmax bottle say that concentrate lives for 2 years. Is it about 2 years after being opened for the first time, or after production date? I wonder where can I find "best before" date on the package: there is some code on the bottle, started with "06", is this the production year? :confused: Bottle is never opened, bought it today.
Need your help.
Thanks.
 
Juri, the 06 might be the first two digits of the batch number.

I would say if it has not been opened it can be still good. However, as always with B&W photography, I suggest you develop a few test frames before you shoot the important ones.
This will also give you piece of mind.

Cheers
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Menu
Log in
Register