Can I suggest you have a look at www.digitaltruth.com it has just about every developer/film combination you can think of and then some. Different dilutions and different speed compensations are all there and even some different temperatures too. A great mine of information and what's more it is free.
If you exposed the film at box speed you shouldn't have any problems using Xtol. This developer will give you finer grain and a small increase in shadow detail which will be helpful with interior shots.
Still does! Those that advocate stand development seem to ignore its many downsides. There was a thread about a week ago that listed about 10 problems with this method. It should never be considered a general purpose development method. It should only be used for contrast reduction. Any book on the zone system will state that. For interior shots of a dimly lit church you do not want decreased contrast.
This is like a lot of techniques. For instance if you develop film at higher temperature you can develop it in a shorter time. But it does not mean you can extrapolate this technique to develop it for a few seconds near boiling point, if you get my drift. Still bath/stand development can be useful for preserving fine line detail in such things as the reproduction of fine line drawings in the later part of development, but not for the whole development process.
No Stand. I just developed a roll which was shot at the end of the trip and noticed a kind of pattern close to sprocket holes which I believe is bromide drag(e.g., sky above the bridge)
500ml + 5ml, no agitation from beginning to end. Lucky that I have this pattern at the end of the roll, say, 36-26 which I just shot to finish it.
I won't do stand again, rather the trusted 1+50 for 15 mins and agitation at every 5th minute for 10 sec.