developer recipe for paper with integrated developer - tetenal vario baryt tt

[el wacho]

hello tigers,


looking for a developer ( or technique ) that won't provoke the monsters that live in this paper!

have been comparing test strips of agfa mc111 ( secret stash ) side by side and would, through much sincere labour, approach those glorious qualities.

i'm currently using a home mixed pq dev ( ilford's 68 ) as benchmark but will banish it immediately on your suggestion! enough about you, the test strips say .... agfa mc111 grade 2 = tetenal grade 1ish to give you an idea of the difference.

my intution says a dev of low ph, no hydroquinone and just metol ...

 

[el wacho]

ps. by monsters, i mean the developer intergrated in the paper emulsion.

 

[Ole]

Tetenal Vario Baryt TT doesn't have incorporated developer. But it still fogs very easily, in my experience.

It has also been said to be repackaged Agfa.

 

[Ian Grant]

In the early days (70's/80's) the Ilford Ilfospeed paper was developer incorporated, and you could use an Ilfoprint or similar activator/stabiliser machine to process it. I made my own activator using Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Sulphite and Potassium Bromide, and Hypam at 1+2 in place of the stabiliser. Ilford kept fairly quiet about the compatability at the time, they wanted to sell new Ilfospeed processing machine.

I don't think modern developer incorporated papers have sufficient developer to just use an activator, but any good PQ developer should be ideal. Not ID-68 thats a fine grained film developer and not suitable for prints

Ian

 

[el wacho]

thanks y'all



this box isn't agfa that's for sure.

i've probably made a mistake buy refering to the developer i'm using by that title but it is a paper developer that i've mixed... someone in this forum recommended to me as they got warmer results with it with another paper. basically its a pq developer.

 

[Ian Grant]

i've probably made a mistake buy refering to the developer i'm using by that title but it is a paper developer that i've mixed... someone in this forum recommended to me as they got warmer results with it with another paper. basically its a pq developer.

I guess it's ID-78 Ian

 

[dancqu]

hello tigers, looking for a developer ( or technique )
that won't provoke the monsters that live in this paper!

Kill the monsters. Developers are all reducing agents.
Likely there is or are oxidizers which will destroy those
agents without affecting the image silver. Ferric iron
may do the oxidizing but what else I'm not now
prepared to say. Dan

 

[el wacho]

sounds like i'm trying to scratch my left ear with my right ear.



thanks for everyone's help anyways.

 

[Paul Verizzo]

In the early days (70's/80's) the Ilford Ilfospeed paper was developer incorporated, and you could use an Ilfoprint or similar activator/stabiliser machine to process it. I made my own activator using Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Sulphite and Potassium Bromide, and Hypam at 1+2 in place of the stabiliser. Ilford kept fairly quiet about the compatability at the time, they wanted to sell new Ilfospeed processing machine.

I don't think modern developer incorporated papers have sufficient developer to just use an activator, but any good PQ developer should be ideal. Not ID-68 thats a fine grained film developer and not suitable for prints

Ian

I have no experience using only activator, but if I may tread on ice of my own making, your formula looks perfectly appropriate. One could try a tablespoon of sodium hydroxide in a tray for a quick experiment. If too harsh, two tablespoons of trisodium phosphate (TSP) for less alkalinity, and then our old friend sodium carbonate. It's hard to find real TSP any more, check out your paint supply store. Don't get TSP substitute, that's sodium carbonate!

 

[gainer]

In days gone by, I used Kodak stabilization paper but most often I fixed it. I did not need any developing agents. I threw a handful of washing soda in a tray of water. That developed the paper quite nicely and after fixing and washing it was (and still is) as permanent as any other. That will be the test of whether it has developer incorporated in sufficient quantity or not. No sulfite or other stuff is required. I did not even add bromide, but that may have been in the emulsion along with the developing agents.

That paper was quite good for my photos of guest artists of the Norfolk and Peninsula Symphonies of Virginia, taken at rehearsal and presented to them the next day after the concert.

 

[Ian Grant]

I have no experience using only activator, but if I may tread on ice of my own making, your formula looks perfectly appropriate.

Paul I tried the Ilford Activator and it wasn't quite right, so I made my own, yes dilute Sodium Hydroxide, but it needed sulphite and a small amount of bromide to get the right contrast and keep the highlights clean with the Ilford papers, I guess I think I saw a formula in one of Clerc's books, and then adapted it to get the best results. The machine & activator was used for many thousands of RC prints.

Older Agfa papers I used designed specifically for activator & stabiliser worked as Gadget suggests in just an alkaline solution.

Ian