Developer Options for B&W?

I have a Jobo 2553 and a beseler base (I actually need to get some reels, anyone have any to sell? plastic or steel?), and I want to save some money and develop my own film. I haven't done this in almost 7 or 8 years, but chemistry is pretty much a hobby so I think I'll be alright.

So, what are my options, developer wise? There seem to be many. I pretty much just shoot HP5+ at 400, but I'd like to explore pushing it a stop or two, and shoot it at 1600 (I want to see what the grain is like, for myself).

Also, I'd rather store my film uncut, but is storing it as strips better? I was thinking of using this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...are_PL14930_Proline_Roll_Film_Continuous.html

Too long; didn't read: There are too many options for developers.

Thanks!

D23 is still one of the best and most convenient developers out there ...

I'm still fairly new at this but I've been using ID-11 with great success. HP5 at 1600 looks great to me in ID-11. Pretty contrasty but not terribly grainy, certainly not compared to the fun sandpaper look I get with Delta 3200 @ 12500....

Edit: Sample attached of HP5 @ 1600 in ID-11

A highly diluted syrupy concentrate is very economical and convenient when using developers one shot. I would suggest HC-110 or Ilfotec HC at dilution H for the Jobo, because the dilution B published time for HP5 is only five minutes, and should be even lower in a Jobo. To make it, mix three parts water with one part syrupy concentrate to make a stock solution. Then mix 15 parts water with one part of that stock solution, and you have dilution H. Whatever volume you use to process, it will be 1/64 syrup this way. Making numbers up for sake of example, say you use 500 mL to process one tank's worth of film. That batch of developer is 1/64 syrup, so there are 7.8125 mL in the batch. If you divide that into the 1000 mL of Ilfotec HC syrup that you purchase, you see that you can get 128 batches out of the $40 bottle. Kodak HC-110 is even cheaper.

If you need to push, you are better off with a stronger dilution, as 500mL of dilution H only holds enough developing power to develop two average rolls to normal densities. Another option to push makes it possible with dilution H: Put only one roll in the tank instead of two, but keep the volume the same as you would use for two rolls. That way, all the syrup is not sucked up before the push can occur.

P.S. I have not actually done this with a Jobo processor, but I do it by hand with the manual roller base and an expert drum.

Thanks to everyone so far. Chris, I love that shot. Did you use a red filter for it?

I just mixed up a gallon of Arista 76. It's a bit cheaper than a gallon of D 76 so I thought I'd try it out. Seems to be the same formula as ID 11 & D 76. I've used D 76 for many years with many different films and have liked the results.

AutumnJazz said:

Thanks to everyone so far. Chris, I love that shot. Did you use a red filter for it?

Click to expand...

Thanks!!! It's my current favourite shot

No, this was shot unfiltered. At 1600 I find HP5 is fairly contrasty and this particular shot when printed on grade 2 seems to really crank the contrast... This was taken on a recent photowalk, two of us swapped lenses for the day, she got my 80-200 2.8 and I got her 50 1.4, at the end of the day I didn't want to give it back !!!

Her shots of the same thing on d*g*tal looked extremely flat and boring by comparison

AutumnJazz said:

...Also, I'd rather store my film uncut, but is storing it as strips better? I was thinking of using this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...are_PL14930_Proline_Roll_Film_Continuous.html...

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How come? What would be the benefit? Trying to do anything useful with 1,5m of uncut film would be terribly annoying. You'd also need considerably more space to store your negatives.

AutumnJazz said:

... chemistry is pretty much a hobby so I think I'll be alright.

Also, I'd rather store my film uncut, but is storing
it as strips better?

Click to expand...

Make it more of a hobby. Indulge in Home Brew.
D23 as suggested is a good choice. So simple
you'll like it fresh each darkroom session.

A good quality scale with 0.01 gram accuracy and
modest capacity will do for those small fresh
batches of developer, fixer, etc. Dan

Wirelessly posted (BBBold: BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.167 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.0.0.0)

For convenience I would suggest the HC110 as well. You mix syrup straight to water for one shot use, no need to keep a stock solution. Get your 32 ounce/ one litre measure, and for Dil B and 500mL fill four ounces (125mL) water 20C (68F) then add 15mL syrup and add water to make 16 ounces (500mL). Double your numbers for 32 ounces. Divide the syrup by 2 for Dil H. You want to keep the dev time above five minutes so Dil H would prob be a better choice for your film.

You can see a test I did with HP5+ and three developers in this threadthere was a url link here which no longer exists)

Though I think you can expect a lot of people suggesting Rodinal because it's tried and true, long shelf life, and lasts forever on the end that you use very little at a time.

Barry's Two Bath is a DIY option. If you buy sulfite in bulk it's pretty cheap. Plenty good.

jnanian said:

D23 is still one of the best and most convenient developers out there ...

Click to expand...

*******
What he said. Have used D23 for decades. Once shot a roll of "HP-5" knowing I would have to push it to EI 1000. Upon rewind, found it was FP 4 in the camera. Don't remember how long I souped it in D23, but got completely useable (though grainy) negs. That said, soup with a liter of D76 1:1 until you see what negs at box speed should look like, then go for it.

Wirelessly posted (BBBold: BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.167 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.0.0.0)

If you want to go home brew there a few of many more to come recipes at the CiM website.

Chris Nielsen said:

Thanks!!! It's my current favourite shot

No, this was shot unfiltered. At 1600 I find HP5 is fairly contrasty and this particular shot when printed on grade 2 seems to really crank the contrast... This was taken on a recent photowalk, two of us swapped lenses for the day, she got my 80-200 2.8 and I got her 50 1.4, at the end of the day I didn't want to give it back !!!

Her shots of the same thing on d*g*tal looked extremely flat and boring by comparison

Click to expand...

My shots with HP5+ at 400 start turning gray and flat if I don't use an orange filter.

Again, thanks so far everyone!

AutumnJazz said:

My shots with HP5+ at 400 start turning gray and flat if I don't use an orange filter.

Again, thanks so far everyone!

Click to expand...

The push processing needed to get to 1600 will add a ton of contrast. Basically, you will get more contrast the more the film is developed, so you can control this once you are doing your own. Once you have developed a few rolls yourself, if you still find that you need more punch, add a little time to your developing. You will eventually get your own times that work for your needs.