Developer for TRIX320

[ndwgolf]

Hi
I just ordered 30 sheets of 8x10 Trix320 from B&H. To my horror I looked up in the Massive Dev Chart and it says that the developer that I have llfotec L29 is not compatible with this film.
I live in Malaysia and really not sure if the dealer that I use has any other type of developer

Can I really not use LLfotec with Trix320??
Neil

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

You can use it.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

People are using it at 1+19 with excellent results. Just google the combination...

 

[ndwgolf]

You can use it.

For 4x5 I use 1x19 and 7 minutes. For 8x10 will I use the same??

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

That is where I would start, yes.

 

[ndwgolf]

Thanks a lot........

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Google Kodak 320TXP and see what Kodak says they know far more than the MDC which can be wrong in it recommendations!

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[ndwgolf]

Google Kodak 320TXP and see what Kodak says they know far more than the MDC which can be wrong in it recommendations!

I did that and they only show Kodak developers. Ive also been googling and googling and find anything from 3 minutes to 13 minutes, so something is obviously wrong. I guess I could try and get D-76 in Malaysia........when they say D-76 stock what does STOCK mean??

 

[ndwgolf]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Nothing there?

 

[MattKing]

when they say D-76 stock what does STOCK mean??

They mean the stock dilution - the dilution you get when you follow the mixing instructions on the bag. As I expect you know, D-76 is a powder, so you have to mix it with water to make up a stock solution.
Powder developer might be a good choice for you, because it is cheap(er) to ship and relatively easy to store in inventory.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Nothing there?

No, there is something there.... for me anyways. It's just someone working with the developer in question.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Any developer that you have used for 4x5 film will work for the same film in 8x10. The film is the same, just the size is different. Use your 4x5 time as a starting point; it will certainly be more accurate than recommendations from the MDC or the manufacturer if you've tested it out already. Try to replicate your agitation scheme with the larger film. Adjust as needed.

Info about D-76 and any other commercially-available developer is readily available with a little searching. I might submit that if you don't know what a stock solution is, that maybe you should read up a bit on some of the basics before plunging into 8x10?... Might save time and money.

Best,

Doremus

 

[ndwgolf]

Any developer that you have used for 4x5 film will work for the same film in 8x10. The film is the same, just the size is different. Use your 4x5 time as a starting point; it will certainly be more accurate than recommendations from the MDC or the manufacturer if you've tested it out already. Try to replicate your agitation scheme with the larger film. Adjust as needed.

Info about D-76 and any other commercially-available developer is readily available with a little searching. I might submit that if you don't know what a stock solution is, that maybe you should read up a bit on some of the basics before plunging into 8x10?... Might save time and money.

Best,

Doremus

The problem is that the 4x5 film is TMAX-100 and my 8x10 film is Trix320.........not the same?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

No, they are entirely different. Different characteristics, different grain, different spectral sensitivity... But that should not stop you from using Ilfotec developer. Just use it.

 

[chassis]

For TXP320 in 4x5 I use D-76 1+2 for 13 minutes at 68F with semi stand agitation exposed at EI160.

 

[Arklatexian]

I did that and they only show Kodak developers. Ive also been googling and googling and find anything from 3 minutes to 13 minutes, so something is obviously wrong. I guess I could try and get D-76 in Malaysia........when they say D-76 stock what does STOCK mean??

I don't know about Malaysia, but wherever I have worked or have bought from, to say they have D-76 in stock means they have packages of the dry D-76 on their shelves ready to sell. YOU must mix it with water in order to use it......Regards!

 

[ic-racer]

When you mix the D76 package with water you get a 'stock' solution that can be used 'as-is' or diluted with water. The diluted solution does not last long. I don't use D76, I use concentrated liquid developer. If you have the developer and the film, why try a few sheets and see the results. Depending on the type of enlarger or contact print paper, you are going to need to find your development time anyway.

If you use Developer D-76 diluted 1:1, dilute it just before you use it, and discard it after processing one batch of film. Don’t reuse or replenish this solution. --KODAK DATASHEET

 

[Doremus Scudder]

The problem is that the 4x5 film is TMAX-100 and my 8x10 film is Trix320.........not the same?

My mistake; I thought you had used the same film in 4x5 as you ordered in 8x10. 320TXP is a wonderful film with a long toe. Err on the side of overexposure if you want good shadow separation. You'll have to find a starting point for developing and refine from there. Ilfotec will work just fine.

Best,

Doremus