developer for plus-x and tri-x?

[jordanstarr]

i know i probably ask more questions in this community than i answer (or offer advice to) but i'm a fairly new and young photographer still expanding my knowledge.
that being said, does anyone have any experience experimenting with developers for plus-x 125 and tri-x 400 films with some great results? i love the film and i like the results from d-76 with stock solution. i know it might sound horribly amateur to stick with this basic mix (ever since high school actually -only fooling around with different dilutions). i've always liked the sharp grain and contrast though, so i've just stuck with it.
however, now i'd like to expand my horizons and since i have some extra money, i'd like to experiment with other developer mixtures with this film (and on occassion i do use the 400 and 100 tmax films. i also use ilford panf50 -which is used with ifosol s).
i know that the results are completely subjective and i'm not sure what i can possibly compare it to. in fact i don't even have any photos of what i would like my shots to look like to use as an example. so, i'm open to all suggestions from those who love the plus-x and tri-x film as much as i do. even if you have a suggestion for tmax, i would entertain all answers. i'm willing to do the grunt work of constant experimenting, but i wouldn't mind some starting references.

thanks apug members for all your help. i do really appreciate it.

 

[athanasius80]

I've had good luck so far with Plus-X at ISO 100 in HC-110 dilution B at 4.45-5 minutes. I think I've also used it with pyro, but I'll have to dig through my negs again. Good luck!

 

[Tom Stanworth]

You might be surprised to hear that I like TriX in D76 or Xtol...or Pyrocat...or about anything. always looks like TriX but with a bit of grain variation. Xtol is pretty fine grained all things considered and great for pushing to 800.

I cannot see you getting that much mroe out of teh TriX with another developer really as it shines in the bog standard developers.

Rgds

 

[Snapshot]

I've been developing Tri-X in Diafine when I push it to 1000 to 1600 and the results have been good. However, I didn't like Tri-X in Rodinal or T-Max. The results in XTOL were nice.

 

[tony lockerbie]

I would just stick with D76, especially with Tri-X. I would try diluting it 1:1 for better results and your developer will go further too. I expose 35mm Tri-X at 320ISO and dev. for 12mins with D76 1:1, you may have to experiment some more as everyone does things a little differently.
Tony

 

[TN98]

I have good result with Plus-x in D76 1+1.

 

[Rlibersky]

I have found it depends on what I'm shooting. Plus-x work well in D76 but for portraits I use D23. It makes a nice soft negative for printing. D76's sharpness is to harsh on humans, but great for architecture and landscapes.

Bottom line find one you like and may be around a while. Get good at using it and then experiment if you want to.

 

[mahler]

i love the film and i like the results from d-76 with stock solution. i know it might sound horribly amateur to stick with this basic mix

There is absolutely nothing wrong with Tri-X in D76! According to an interview on his website, Kenna used it for years, at least while he was still processing his own film.

Rodinal and HC-110 work well, too.

 

[fschifano]

I hate to tell you this, but pairing Tri-X or Plus-X with D-76 is just about as good as it gets. XTOL will give you ever so slightly less grain and a tiny speed boost using normal development times, nothing that's very noticeable most of the time until you get past 8x enlargement or so. XTOL is noticeably better than D-76 when pushing Tri-X 1 stop to EI 800. Tri-x + Diafine is very good for very low light work, allowing you an EI or 1250 to 1600, but not so good if you have enough light to work at the box speed. Plus-X + Diafine is a combination to avoid. The developer's instructions recommend that you rate Plus-X at EI 400. I tried it once and it was awful. Shadows were black and empty, while the highlights were completely blown out. FP4+ at EI 250 was much better, but still nothing to brag about. There's just no point in trying to push these slower films when an equivalent speed can be achieved natively. Some people like Tri-X in Rodinal, but then I don't much care for any fast films in Rodinal.

 

[BradS]

Have to agree...Plus-X and Tri-X in D-76 is about as good as it gets.

 

[cao]

I'm mainly a 35mm shooter, but I've always liked the Kodak TX, PX, and TMY in XTOL 1:2.

 

[Paul Howell]

Over the course of 40 years I have used most of the developers, and many not listed, already mentioned with good results. I liked Microdal X and Xtol, but stopped using both when Kodak stopped making both in quart sizes. HC 110, Tmax, and Ilford DDX last about forever, D76 and ID 11 are still available in quart sizes. Unless you plan on shooting a lot of film, enough to warrent mixing Xtol or Microdal X I would think about HC 110, TMax, or DDX.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Pyrocat-HD. Grain never looked better to my eyes with Tri-X. I have tried it with Plus-X, but am yet to form an opinion.
- Thomas

 

[sbelyaev]

There is no single correct answer. I achieve excellent results developing these films in Perceptol 1+1. I rate the films @ 50% of their box speed.

 

[fhovie]

It would help if you knew what you wanted different than what D76 does. I used D76 in the beginning and tried other things because I wanted greater accutance than what I got from D76 1:1 or 1:3. I also wanted developer that was one shot and inexpensive (which D76 made at home can be). I also wanted developer that was a little compensating. I didn't need full film speed so I wandered off into pyro land - with a specific purpose. If you are happy with D76 - learn to make your own and enjoy it. It is the standard by which all other developers are measured. All developers have something they do better than others at some expense. Right now I use Pyrocat-P for most of my work because I like the accutance and the stain does mask the grain and it is compensating and cheap to make and it lasts longer than I need it to. So for me and the style of photography I do, it is a winner. If all I had was D-76, I would still be happy with the results at 1:1 or 1:3. It does not give me what I get from P'cat but it gives results that would be plenty acceptable. I still use D76 for certain things. I use XTOL and Microphen also for certain things. I think developer hopping is something that answers a question. You need to know the question if you wish to find the answer. So here is a list I am familiar with and some of their strengths:
D-76 - fine grain - full film speed - solvent - non staining - can push film
Pyro Developers (PMK Pcat Rodinal etc) Staining, compensating, loss in film speed, high accutance and grain masking.
XTOL, PC-TEA low or non-solvent non-staining - full film speed - can push film - sharp with acceptable grain - environmentally friendly
Microphen non/low staining - high solvent - increases film speed - great for pushing and for fast films
D23 - Microdol X - non staining - high solvent - loss in film speed - very compensating and very very smooth grain. Lower accutance

These are some of many developers I have used to achieve specific results. I still use all of them at one time or another. D76 is the jack of all trades developer. I am sure that most here could write a book on the characteristics of each developer and this list is incomplete in every way - but - it hits the high points and may give you an idea of which question to ask.

 

[John Bragg]

My vote is for HC-110 Dilution H. For my money it is one of the most user friendly developers, keeps extraordinarily well, and is very economical without compromising in terms of quality.

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

Regards, John.

 

[Uncle Bill]

D-76/ID-11 is a no brainer. I have processed Tri-x rated at ISO200 in Rodinal 1-50 but that is just experimenting around (got good results though).

 

[Neanderman]

Plus-X, EI 100 in Rodinal 1:60, 13 min, agitation 10 sec of every minute.

Ed

 

[Neanderman]

Oh, yeah. 70° F.

 

[jmal]

Jordan,

I have used D76, HC110, and Ilford DDX with both films and prefer DDX. D76 is a close second. If you want to look at my photos on Flickr, I'm under the name Deale. I list the films used and all the shots are in DDX. FWIW, the shots are straight scans with no manipulation. I dubious about how much one can actually see on the internet, but I will say that my prints look much better in person than they do on Flickr. I simply use it for free sharing.

Jmal

 

[jd callow]

I've always used d76 for PXP and TXP. I've been instructed to try HC110 or Xtol if I want to increase or decrease contrast for TXP, but have yet to try it. I've also been told that if I do semi stand dev I can get the box speed. Previously I'd rate PXP @ 64 -80 and TXp at or a little faster than 200. The one b&w image I have in my gallery is TXP in D76 1:3.

 

[40oz]

I started out using Ilfosol S for convenience, and while it was fine, I now prefer Tri-X in D-76 1:1. FWIW, I thought HC-110 dilution H looked like straight D-76, which I guess is what it's supposed to look like, so went back to D-76 1:1. However, I haven't experimented at all with HC-110, and there are a lot of different dilutions and times out there.

 

[Chuck_P]

For 120 film, I use HC-110 diluted 1:63 from concentrate for Plus-X at EI64. Developed for 4 min 30 sec.

Chuck

 

[removed account4]

i just processed some tri x + plus x this afternoon.
i used sprint film developer, and the film looked really nice
( liquid concentrate - 1:9 )

 

[rcoda]

I used to use FG7 + 9% Sodium Sulfite for 4x5 and 8x10. I used to love the negs I got. Haven't used Tri-X in a REALLY long time, though and I hear it has changed since then.