Developer for FP4+

Neil Miller · Mar 3, 2007

Pyrocat HD for me.

Regards,
Neil.

P C Headland · Mar 3, 2007

hal9000 said:
I tested FP4+ with HC-110 dilution E (1:47). My results (see attachment) show high contrast with this combination - even with very short development times (4 minutes), I calculate a gamma value of 0.58 (slightly more than normal N development = 0.57). So I decided not to use HC-110 with FP4+, I will repeat the test with another developer (I am planning to test Rodinal and ID-11 1:1). I have read elsewhere that this combination is known to be quite high in contrast, has anyone else measured and obtained similar results?

Why not give it another try in HC-110, but at a higher dilution (1+63 or 1+119)?

In Rodinal I get nice results using 1+100 for 20 minutes.

ijsbeer · Mar 4, 2007

X-tol is also getting my vote. easy to use, cheap, not to bad for the envirioment.

Greets,
ijsbeer

elekm · Mar 4, 2007

Tim, think about what kind of image you want and then select your developer from that. In some cases, you'll want a fine-grain developer. In other cases, you'll want a higher-contrast developer.

I would use that as your criteria and not worry too much about shelf life.

Lee L · Mar 4, 2007

hal9000 said:
I tested FP4+ with HC-110 dilution E (1:47). My results (see attachment) show high contrast with this combination - even with very short development times (4 minutes), I calculate a gamma value of 0.58 (slightly more than normal N development = 0.57). So I decided not to use HC-110 with FP4+, I will repeat the test with another developer (I am planning to test Rodinal and ID-11 1:1). I have read elsewhere that this combination is known to be quite high in contrast, has anyone else measured and obtained similar results?

hal9000,

It looks like you're headed for about 3.5 minutes for your target of gamma 0.57 with dilution E. HC-110 is pretty linear on dilution vs. times, so if you double your dilution, you should be close to gamma 0.57 at 2 x 3.5 minutes, or 7 minutes. You could also reduce agitation in combination with lengthened time to tame highlights and increase shadow contrast. I'm sure there's a way to get the overall scale you want with HC-110 and FP4+. Whether or not the combination's other characteristics match your desires is a matter of taste.

I'm also a bit puzzled about your dilution. European stock concentrate used to be different than north American, so dilution E was 1:14 from that concentrate. But that certainly makes no sense given your results. Has the European stock concentrate changed, or are you using non-Euro HC-110?

I assume you've seen http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ If not, it's worth a visit.

Lee

TLR · Mar 4, 2007

I'm also a bit puzzled about your dilution. European stock concentrate used to be different than north American, so dilution E was 1:14 from that concentrate. But that certainly makes no sense given your results. Has the European stock concentrate changed, or are you using non-Euro HC-110?

I have used HC-110 for 5 years now. Here, in Spain, the HC-110 is sold in a 1 litre bottle of concentrate (made in France) and comes with a dilutions table identical to the USA concentrate, so I think both are identical. I use it at a 1:63 dilution direct from the concentrate. I have never seen the other type of bottle of HC-110. http://www.digit-photo.com/images/produits/photoprod/PRKD5010541.jpg
Regards.

hal9000 · Mar 4, 2007

Lee L said:
hal9000,
It looks like you're headed for about 3.5 minutes for your target of gamma 0.57 with dilution E. HC-110 is pretty linear on dilution vs. times, so if you double your dilution, you should be close to gamma 0.57 at 2 x 3.5 minutes, or 7 minutes.

Thanks for the suggestion, I will try that one of these days and post my results. Although even if I do reach 0.57 at 7 minutes, this will mean that any reduction in contrast will again put me below 5 minutes, which is not very reproducible. So I can really only expect to use this combination with N or N+x development.

I'm also a bit puzzled about your dilution. European stock concentrate used to be different than north American, so dilution E was 1:14 from that concentrate. But that certainly makes no sense given your results. Has the European stock concentrate changed, or are you using non-Euro HC-110?

Yes, I am using the USA version, so E is 1:47.

hal9000 · Mar 17, 2007

FP4+ with XTOL 1:1

I finally got around to testing FP4+ in another developer - I used XTOL 1:1 and have found very nice fairly linear results for controlling contrast with development time from N-1 (about 5 minutes) to N+2 (about 27 minutes) with normal N development about 12 minutes. I am looking forward to using this combination now for real! My results are in the attached graph.

Vaughn · Mar 17, 2007

Just for the heck of it, I'll chime in here and say I use Ilford Universal PQ Developer for my 8x10 FP4 -- using the negs for alt processes. Depending on the alt process and the scene's contrast, I vary the dilution (between 30 to 60 ml to make up a liter of developer) and process in a drum at a temp of 63 to 68 degrees F and times of 4 to 10 minutes.

To determine the dilution,temp and time for a particular neg, I look at my previous negs, check the exposure data of the neg to be developed, determine what process the neg will be used for and then wet my finger to see what direction the wind is blowing.

Once developed, I look at the contrast of the negative -- if it is high contrasty, then it will be used for a carbon print, if it has a medium amount of contrast I'll make at platinum print out of it, if it is relatively flat I set it aside and perhaps I'll make a silver print from it someday...or perhaps a cyanotype.

I think I'll save all the testing, plotting of curves and all that for when I am too old to actually go out and photograph.

Vaughn

PatTrent · Mar 17, 2007

timbo10ca said:
What is everybody's favorite developer for FP4+? I have been using Ilfosol S for its ease of use, but it seems to always hit it's shelf-life expectancy before I finish a bottle off. I like its charateristics, and am wondering if there is something out there that may be similar, but lasts longer. I was thinking I might be willing to try a powder, but reading the datasheets at the Ilford and Kodak websites leads me to believe that the packet has to be mixed all at once and only lasts for 6 months thereafter anyway (no better off than my current situation). Is this in fact the case? Ideally I'd like to stick with Ilford.

Thanks,
Tim

For 120, my favorite is Rodinal 1:100 for 1 hour with only 1 agitation cycle at the beginning followed by 1 cycle every 15 minutes. My agitation cycles consist of 3 firm raps of the steel tank against the bottom of the sink (with a rubber coaster for cushioning) and 2 gentle inversions.

For 135, like both the Rodinal method I just described, or--especially if the photos are of women or children--I use HC110 diluted 1/2:63-1/2 (half the dilution of "Dilution B"), using the American scale. My time for the HC110 is 12 minutes at 68 degrees (adjusted for the ambient temperature which is 70 in the winter and 75 in the summer). Also, with the HC110, I use the same agitation method as for my Rodinal method.

Either of these methods gives me beautiful, long tonal scales with FP4+. For low contrast scenes, I have to increase the contrast at the print stage, but it helps tame the harsh California sunlight outdoors. The grain in Rodinal is slightly higher than with HC110, but surprisingly low, and only an issue for 35mm portraits of women and children.

I rate the film at Ilford's own ISO 125 when using Rodinal (although I sometimes have to give 1/2 stop more exposure for shadows--depending on the subject and scene). For HC110, I use an EI of 80-100, depending on the subject and scene.

gainer · Mar 17, 2007

Pyrocat MC or, if you want a non-staining single solution developer, Rodinal.

ricksplace · Mar 17, 2007

I have yet to find anything that DOESN'T work well with fp4+.

normmamiya · Mar 28, 2007

HC-110

thedarkroomstudios · Mar 28, 2007

I tend to develop FP4+ for 9.5 mins in HC-110. I love the tonality and the grain structure.

Richard Jepsen · Mar 29, 2007

5L package of XTOL would not be a good choice as it sounds like you don't process enough film to use 5L in 6 or 7 months. I suggest 1L of ID-11 stored in several small full bottles. ID-11 is the suggested developer for best image quality with FP-4. I bet ID-11 would last 7 or 8 months if stored in a full container. I like XTOL but FP-4 developed in ID-11/D-76 gives beautiful results too.

Developer for FP4+

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