Developer for FP4+, HP5+ and Tri-X

JackRosa · Aug 23, 2014

I have used Rodinal for years as my one and only developer for above-mentioned films. I switched to Rodinal from Pyro and am happy with the results. I rate FP4+ at EI=50 and HP5+ and Tri-X at EI=200. I use these film in the following formats: 120, 4x5, 8x10

Wondering what developers you have had success with. I subscribe to the theory that if it works don't fix it but at the same time feel that experimenting a little every once in a while is healthy.

Thanks in advance.

Rudeofus · Aug 23, 2014

These are standard films, so any developer should give good results. With a more modern developer (Xtol, TMAX, DD-X, or some special soups from Photo Formulary) you should get higher speed and better grain and sharpness, but it's up to you to decide whether this is worth the trouble.

craigclu · Aug 23, 2014

I play with various things but when I want things to absolutely turn out and print easily, I fall back on PyroCat. Great shelf life for my erratic usage patterns and the controlled highlights make printing very easy. HP5+ and skin tones with PyroCat have a sort of 3D look that I've not gotten with other combinations. Exposure for me is roughly 1/2 box speed and a good starting point and about what your practice is already. I would certainly give it a try. PS- I've had my best luck scanning these negatives vs traditional, non-staining developers if that matters to you.

I use the MC version but the original HD is likely easier to quickly mix up and will give almost identical results for some trial runs for you.

chriscrawfordphoto · Aug 23, 2014

My favorite developer for Tri-X is D-76 1+1. If you want a liquid, then Tmax Developer diluted 1+7 is nice. Rodinal gives a gritty, harsher look that I love for some subjects.

My favorite developer for FP4 and HP5 is PMK. Those two films are just incredible in PMK. If you want a more mainstream developer, then D-76 1+1 is nice. Rodinal is great for FP4, and for HP5 is gives a similar gritty look to what it gives for Tri-X.

HP5 in PMK

HP5 in Rodinal 1+50

John Bragg · Aug 23, 2014

HC-110 is a great standard developer for traditional films. Both Tri-X and HP5+ do well in it. I use dilution H with very little agitation and the negatives scan really easily.

cliveh · Aug 23, 2014

D76 at 1:1 is completely consistent and does what it says on the pack.

Xmas · Aug 23, 2014

I only use Rodinal or Microphen no detectable difference.

Whole lotta Bullshit about magic developers.

removed account4 · Aug 23, 2014

i have 4 developers that i use and have used steady for the past 14 years
sprint film developer ( liquid stock works with every film you can think of and works like d76 but is different and won't block highlights if over processed )

ansco 130 ( forumulary 130 paper developer ) 72º 1:8ish for 8mins nice crisp developer great contrast, and midtones kind of a secret developer ..

sumatranol/caffenol-130 ( caffenolC with 15cc of stock ansco130 / 1L of developer ) couldn't ask for a simpler, better, easy to use and make developer than this
works like a charm on the films you have and everything else ...

these days i split develop my film 4 mins in ansco130 1:8 ... agitate normally
then pour out
then
spent caffenol 130 agitate constantly for 4 mins ...

best developer i have ever used .. and works with everything even color negative/e6 film

good luck !
john

Axle · Aug 23, 2014

Tri-X - I like in HC-110 or Xtol
FP4 - PMK Pyro, Rodinal, Xtol
HP5 - HC-110 or Xtol

BradS · Aug 23, 2014

The films you mention are my most often used films. I use D76 and D23 (and minor variations on these two) for everything, including the films you mention. I've tried other things and always come back to good old D76 or D23.

HC-110 is also a great choice when the agitation is not continuous.

presspass · Aug 24, 2014

Don't know about FP4, but for Tri-X and HP5+, D-23 works for me every time.

RattyMouse · Aug 24, 2014

I've used both HC-110 and DD-X with HP5+ and am always satisfied with the results.

JackRosa · Aug 24, 2014

Thank You Chris

Thank you Chris for you insight and advice and especially for taking the time to post the images and provide a link to your development matrix. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to help.

JackRosa · Aug 24, 2014

Thanks jnaian

jnanian said:
i have 4 developers that i use and have used steady for the past 14 years
sprint film developer ( liquid stock works with every film you can think of and works like d76 but is different and won't block highlights if over processed )

ansco 130 ( forumulary 130 paper developer ) 72º 1:8ish for 8mins nice crisp developer great contrast, and midtones kind of a secret developer ..

sumatranol/caffenol-130 ( caffenolC with 15cc of stock ansco130 / 1L of developer ) couldn't ask for a simpler, better, easy to use and make developer than this
works like a charm on the films you have and everything else ...

these days i split develop my film 4 mins in ansco130 1:8 ... agitate normally
then pour out
then
spent caffenol 130 agitate constantly for 4 mins ...

best developer i have ever used .. and works with everything even color negative/e6 film

good luck !
john

Wow! . . . PD-130! ... other than Amidol, Formulary's PD-130 is my favorite paper developer! Never thought to use it with film. For sure, I will give your method a try.

THANKS!

JackRosa · Aug 24, 2014

Thank You All

Thank you all for taking the time to post on this thread. I appreciate your insight and advice.

I used to develop FP4+ and HP5+ in PMK and loved the results. I moved away from this developer as I use a densitometer to measure the various densities (and density range) to decide how to go about my unsharp masking. The yellow stain, as you know, fools the densitometer. I bought a color densitometer but never got used to working with it.

No doubt whatsoever, the results with PMK are amazing.

I have plenty of HC-110 as I use it to develop my unsharp masks. I also have plenty of PD-130 as it is my (almost) favorite paper developer. I am going to get some of the other stuff (D76, D23, etc.) and play around a little.

Again, thank you all!

removed account4 · Aug 24, 2014

JackRosa said:
Wow! . . . PD-130! ... other than Amidol, Formulary's PD-130 is my favorite paper developer! Never thought to use it with film. For sure, I will give your method a try.

THANKS!

pleasure is mine ...
but do tests to see what times and dilutions work for you ...
because my processing methods are most likely different than yours ...

JackRosa · Aug 24, 2014

Appreciate the advice, Michael

Michael R 1974 said:
Jack, before experimenting with other things first try to give yourself at least a vague direction. Start with the characteristics of the developer you are currently using - ie Rodinal, and go from there. Do you want to try something that might give finer grain? Or a higher EI? That sort of thing. Also enlargement factor is quite important. You are shooting medium and large formats, so depending on how big you print, differences in image structure can vary from readily apparent to trivial/meaningless. Etc.

Appreciate the advice. All very good points!

JackRosa · Aug 24, 2014

jnanian said:
pleasure is mine ...
but do tests to see what times and dilutions work for you ...
because my processing methods are most likely different than yours ...

Will do. Thanks.

Keith Tapscott. · Aug 25, 2014

World standard Borax MQ developer works perfectly well with those films. ID-11 (D-76)

http://darkroomuser.wordpress.com/2012/03/02/ilford-id-11-developer/

timor · Aug 25, 2014

John Bragg said:
HC-110 is a great standard developer for traditional films. Both Tri-X and HP5+ do well in it. I use dilution H with very little agitation and the negatives scan really easily.

That's what I do with cubical grain films with shortened dev time and additional 2-3 minutes bath of borax..

Ko.Fe. · Aug 26, 2014

John Bragg said:
HC-110 is a great standard developer for traditional films. Both Tri-X and HP5+ do well in it. I use dilution H with very little agitation and the negatives scan really easily.

+1. I like FP4 and HP5 in it. Tri-X is good also.

One week ago, I asked very experienced person with decades of experience, she use HC-110 and nothing else.

ericdan · Aug 26, 2014

I just recently tried Fuji Super Prodol and love the results. No recipes for this developer out there so you have to experiment a little bit.

cjbecker · Aug 26, 2014

Ansco130 (pf130)

The only developer I have for paper and film.

removed account4 · Aug 26, 2014

cjbecker said:
Ansco130 (pf130)

The only developer I have for paper and film.

it makes me smile when i read this

thanks cj brightened up my day!

tony lockerbie · Aug 26, 2014

I just use Pyro-cat HD for everything these days and it works really well for Tri-X especially. Used to use Ansco 130 a lot but getting fresh Glycin is impossible here in Australia.

Developer for FP4+, HP5+ and Tri-X

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