Developer for Delta 400

[Bill Banks]

I have stocked up on Ilford Delta 400 for my forthcoming holiday in the Scottish Islands and I am looking forward to some marvellous opportunities for landscape photography. Before I go, I would like to run a few test rolls with my chosen developer, but the question is: which one?

Bearing in mind the subject and the likely weather (!), excessive contrast is unlikely to be a problem. What will make or break the pictures is the contrast I can achieve in the shadows and mid-tones. Since I am using medium format (Mamiya 220f) neither the finest grain nor ultimate sharpness is as important as the best possible tonality.

Can anyone suggest the best developer for me?

 

[waynecrider]

I mostly use Xtol with Delta films. I have tried a handful of others but I like Xtol. It's also the rec'd developer by Kodak for their tabular film. Watch processing times tho as tabular films are sensitive to shorter (+ or - ) amounts of times.

The FDC (film developing cookbook) suggest using a conventional film for better midtone and highlight seperation. Concerning shadows, watch your exposure.

 

[lowellh]

Our F 76plus Film Developer is an outstanding match to Ilford films. You may also like our ODORLESS FIXER and ODORLESS STOP BATH.

Moderator's note--Lowell Huff is the proprietor of Clayton Chemicals.

 

[psvensson]

I use nothing but Delta 400. I've been using a homemade high-sulfite ascorbic acid developer similar to Xtol, but lately I've had my eyes opened to MC-TEA. It produces very fine grain for a non-solvent developer and fantastic accutance. If you plan on making large enlargements, this is the way to go. The downside: you need to expose at 160. I don't think there's a commercial developer that replicates the look.

There's a post in the recipes section, but I'll make it more legible here:

100ml triethanolamine
35g ascorbic acid/dehydroascorbic acid mixture sold as C-1000 by the Vitamin Shoppe. It's the equivalent of about 25g pure ascorbic acid.
6g metol

Heat the mixture till the metol and ascorbic acid dissolve. Then add TEA to 150 ml (otherwise the chemicals will come out of solution when the TEA cools).

Use at 1:100, with the addition of 10 g of sodium sulfite (2tsp) per liter of working solution. 12 mins at 74F for Delta 400 35mm.

 

[Travis Nunn]

I think "best" is a matter of opinion. I've used Sprint Standard and D-76 with Delta 400, both with excellent results.

 

[Phillip P. Dimor]

I've used PMK with Delta 400 with what I thought were great results. I know the conventional wisdom regarding t-grain films but.. I liked the tonality. A lot.

Harvey's 777 might be an excellent but esoteric choice. I'd go with d76 1:1 for simplicity. Microdol-X yields supurb gradation at the expense of acutance, try Microdol-X 1:1 for a bit 'sharper' image.

Hope I haven't spun you around in a circle, just wanted to share with you what i've found.

 

[Daniel_OB]

I think Rodinal will fit.
1:50 made in tap water, 20 deg.C, agitation for 30sec first min, each other agitation 10sec, after 12.5 min spill developer rinse with water no more that 24 degC, fixer 7-8 min.

You will never make a girl from grandma, and you will never get tonality out of iso 400 as you can with Pan-F. But grain can add a drama if you are skilled in it, and it is nice in 400. It just has its own signiture many like.
Good luck.
www.LEICA-R.com

 

[jim appleyard]

Yes, "best" is a matter of opinion, but lots of folks soup this film in Rodinal. Grain will not be a problem with your MF and Rodinal should deliver your expected tonality.

 

[Dave Miller]

Prescysol.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I like it best rated at 200 in Perceptol, but if you need 400, I've had good results with D-76.

 

[dolande]

I’ve used the late paterson aculux with great results. ID11 is also good but only stock, 1+1 is too grainy (for 35mm anyway)

Regards

Rafael

 

[Max Power]

I think that DDX is pretty groovy myself.

Kent

 

[johnnywalker]

Second the DDX.

 

[gnashings]

I always throw it into Rodinal 1+50 (ok, almost always), even in 35mm. Love the tonality. And when its a 6x6 neg, I find that just rings even more true.
Also, you will have many, many rolls of film I presume - Rodinal will not only be economical, but I find it so very predictable and easy to work with that you will not give yourself any heart attacks with pictures that you may not be able to reshoot (at least for a while).
That's just my rather biased opinion

Peter.

 

[rbarker]

I'll "third" DD-X. I'd try to shoot and develop a couple of test rolls before the trip, however, so you'll have a handle on how the combo (whichever developer you choose) behaves.