Developer Dilution

Snapshot · Sep 13, 2007

Hi All,

I've recently mixed my own scratch formula paper developer. I'm very satisfied with the results, getting deep blacks and brilliant whites. However, paper develops in 60 seconds, which is fine but I want to slow down the development. If I want to slow down development, will diluting it with water be the best course of action?

Currently, I use a 1+3 dilution (1 part concentrate and 3 parts water). Will a 1+5 dilution slow down the development significantly (1.5 minutes for paper development)? Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

dslater · Sep 13, 2007

Just curious - why do you want to slow down your development?

Increasing dilution should slow development, though it's hard to say how much - best bet would be to just giveit a try

Snapshot · Sep 13, 2007

I want to slow down development so as I can better avoid over developing prints. There is certainly an advantage, however, to quick development.

Ray Heath · Sep 13, 2007

Snapshot said:
I want to slow down development so as I can better avoid over developing prints. There is certainly an advantage, however, to quick development.

g'day Snap

paper generally develops to completion i.e. it can't be over developed

why do you think it is over developing?

Snapshot · Sep 13, 2007

Ray Heath said:
g'day Snap

paper generally develops to completion i.e. it can't be over developed

why do you think it is over developing?

When I first printed with this developer, I used 1.5 minutes. The picture seemed a little dark. I did note that the initial image came in at 15 to 20 seconds so I decided that the development period was too long. I reprinted the photograph and it looked good at 1 minute.

Snapshot · Sep 13, 2007

BTW, I wasn't aware that a print develops to completion and not more. Am I perhaps exposing my paper too long on the enlarger then?

Ray Heath · Sep 13, 2007

hi again Snap

your experience is, probably, correct

however, you'll find that reducing the development time will result in less than full black in the areas of the print that should be fully black

you will get far more control by developing for a consistent time and varying the exposure to change density

another consideration is contrast range, do you use graded or variable contrast paper?

Snapshot · Sep 13, 2007

Ray Heath said:
hi again Snap

your experience is, probably, correct

however, you'll find that reducing the development time will result in less than full black in the areas of the print that should be fully black

you will get far more control by developing for a consistent time and varying the exposure to change density

another consideration is contrast range, do you use graded or variable contrast paper?

I'm using VC paper. I'm finding the blacks at 1 minute development deep and rich, which is what I want. The image seems a little darker overall at 1.5 minutes but, ostensibly, no change in the blacks.

dslater · Sep 13, 2007

Hmm - I'd try reducing exposure a bit using a little higher contrast

Snapshot · Sep 13, 2007

dslater said:
Hmm - I'd try reducing exposure a bit using a little higher contrast

Come to think of it, I didn't use any contrast filters as per usual. I was intent on testing out the developer formula and didn't use one. This would account for the slight overexposure.

gainer · Sep 13, 2007

I was taught many years ago not to yank a print to control highlights. If they are truly fogging and not just overexposed, a little bromide or benzotriazole is the cure. While we are taught to expose film for the shadows and develop for the highlights, paper should be exposed so that highlights are correct when maximum black is obtained in the darkest place. If both cannot happen at the same time, change the contrast grade.

Snapshot · Sep 13, 2007

gainer said:
I was taught many years ago not to yank a print to control highlights. If they are truly fogging and not just overexposed, a little bromide or benzotriazole is the cure. While we are taught to expose film for the shadows and develop for the highlights, paper should be exposed so that highlights are correct when maximum black is obtained in the darkest place. If both cannot happen at the same time, change the contrast grade.

Good advice. I'll be sure to follow this recommendation. Pulling out the print before full development isn't going to allow me to improve consistency.

Bruce Osgood · Sep 13, 2007

I may have missed it but are you using Fiber or Resign paper?

If resign then 1 minute is all you can give it, it is usually developer incorporated so more than a minute you are waisting your time and not changing the image for the better.

If Fiber, development is to completion. That may be 1,2,3 minutes or even a lot more. I generally wait till the mid tones are just emerging and give it 3 times that amount of time in the developer. But if less than 1-1/2 minutes I would consider reducing the exposure because you want full and complete development.

My 2 cents.

Thomas Bertilsson · Sep 14, 2007

I'll second Bruce's advice. I use mainly one developer for regular b&w work - Ansco 130. For Fotokemika Varycon I have to develop the print for 3 minutes to get to the fullest impact on that particular paper. Most other papers I end up developing for 2 minutes, since they look as if they reach a fully developed stage at that point. Those times are consistent, however, and I only change filter grade and exposure time. Never how much time the print is in the developer.
- Thomas

Roger Hicks · Sep 14, 2007

Snapshot said:
BTW, I wasn't aware that a print develops to completion and not more. Am I perhaps exposing my paper too long on the enlarger then?

Yes.

Snapshot · Sep 14, 2007

Well, it seems I have my answer. I'll leave the formula and dilution as is and correct my paper exposure. Thanks everyone for your input.

dslater · Sep 14, 2007

Thomas Bertilsson said:
I'll second Bruce's advice. I use mainly one developer for regular b&w work - Ansco 130. For Fotokemika Varycon I have to develop the print for 3 minutes to get to the fullest impact on that particular paper. Most other papers I end up developing for 2 minutes, since they look as if they reach a fully developed stage at that point. Those times are consistent, however, and I only change filter grade and exposure time. Never how much time the print is in the developer.
- Thomas

Hmm - that's interesting. I also use Ansco 130 (Actually Photographers Formulary PF130 which I believe is the same thing). I only develop for 1 min per the instructions that came with the developer. What temperature are you usually developing at? My darkroom is very small and heats up rapidly so I think I'm usually at about 75°

Developer Dilution

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