Develop CN film exposed in 2006

halfaman

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A friend of mine has given me a roll 8 rolls of different CN films (Superia, Gold, Polaroid) he shot at least 15 years ago to develop it because I have a big mouth... At least he kept the rolls in the freezer all this time.

I don't think C41 is going to work, I developed once a roll shot 9 years before and the negative came out very, very thin. I was thinking about using B/W developer. How do you think I should develop this?

I have opened a similar thread for a B/W film from the same person and shot around the same time.

Develop TMax 400 exposed in 2006 | Photrio.com Photography Forums
 
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Anon Ymous

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Incidentally, back in 2016 I developed a roll of C41 I had shot back in 2001, so 15 years for me too. Sadly, one side of the perforations was totally ripped, so I had no way to properly load them on the reel. Frustrated, I just "dumped" the whole thing in a tank, hoping that it won't stick too much. Well, it did and many shots were ruined, but those without splotches turned out rather ok, considering the details of the case. I remember using a longer development time, perhaps 3:45 or thereabouts. This film turned out to be a psychedelic time capsule with all the splotches and iffy colour balance.

Best of luck!
 

quiver

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I've developed film nearly as old or older. Negatives looked fine. They were all Kodak films, and I was using the Arista C-41 kit. I think latent image retention was a design goal for Kodak's mature films.
 

Sirius Glass

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Since they were kept in the freezer, develop normally.
 

mohmad khatab

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Why sacrifice color and go to black and white development?
It is worth using the CN process, which is easy to prepare and the results are almost guaranteed.
I've been developing these expired Polaroid films since 1995 and got fairly acceptable results. (The camera had a shutter problem).
I think that the amount of rolls available to you is worth preparing this developer in order to develop these rolls.
The only condition is that you must first make a 3 (Push), while shooting. In short, if the ISO number on the box is 100, you should set the ISO pointer to 25 while shooting.
The developer of CNs is quite successful in developing expired films because it is a cold process
 

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railwayman3

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I'd process normally in C-41. I've just processed a couple of 35mm colour negative films, found in the bottom of a gadget bag given to a friend, and exposed about 10 years ago going by the subjects, Obviously kept at room temperature and not even sealed in the plastic pots. All the pictures are fine, could have been taken yesterday. The code numbers on the cassettes suggested Tru-print own-label, manufactured by Ferrania.
 

mohmad khatab

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halfaman said:
Ok, so normal C41 will be.

One good thing in this case is that I have several rolls, I can try with one and see what to do the rest.
Click to expand...
If you do not have a developer (CNS), and of course you will have to use the process (C41) as at least, you can develop these films according to the cold temperature.
CNS films are primarily designed for cold processes.
Therefore, I sincerely advise you to use the attached table, I have already relied on this table and the results were good.
 

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foc

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Mohmad, I understand from the OP 1st post that the films are normal C41 type and not the Agfa CNS process films.
Yes you are correct that if they were CNS process type films then cold process C41 would work.
 

mohmad khatab

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foc said:
Mohmad, I understand from the OP 1st post that the films are normal C41 type and not the Agfa CNS process films.
Yes you are correct that if they were CNS process type films then cold process C41 would work.
Click to expand...
hello brother
Even if I misunderstood it.
In any case, the development of any films that are expired (or filmed many years ago) becomes better if it is done cold (whatever the developer's formula is) and regardless of the type of film.
On personal experience.
I received two rolls from one of my trainees. Konica brand, they were photographed 20 years ago and were stored in the wardrobe.
- I developed the first roll with the standard C41 process, the result is that the film died.
- The second movie I developed with 50 minutes, according to the indicated schedule, with continuous stirring without stopping.
- You will ask me, How can you keep stirring?
- I have a Polish Crocus tank. I installed a small motor on the outside of it on the stir stick. This motor stirs the film with the film reel inside the tank at a speed of eight revolutions per minute.
- I used to reverse the rotation movement every five minutes by disconnecting the electricity and then returning it, so the motor would rotate in the opposite direction.

- The huge dilemma that faced me was how to maintain the temperature of the operation at 22 degrees Celsius for 50 minutes, and in fact, I used some crushed ice and put a thermometer in the aquarium water, and whenever I feel that the temperature will rise half a degree, I immediately throw a small piece Of crushed ice in a basin of water.
Ultimately, he made a very good movie. It contained priceless family photos.
 
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halfaman

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Rolls developed. At the end there were only two rolls, one Polaroid High Definition and one AgfaColor. The rest were unused.

I developed them normally with standard times and temperature. The Polaroid came out... perfect, it could be shot yesterday. Good color and contrast for a consumer film.

The Agfa has some clear color shifts with weird tones but it is still usable. After seeing the images of this roll my friend told me that it was not taken 15 years ago but... 32 years ago!! Taking into account that it is pretty impressive how well it has maintained after such long time.

I will try to upload some images from the Polaroid, Agfa photos are private and I can't share them.

Thanks you all for your help!!

PD: The B/W roll came out well too.
 
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Paul Howell

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Polaroid was rebranded Fuji. When working part time at a mini lab I noticed that old Fuji rolls seemed to develop with fewer issues than Kodak.
 

foc

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Polaroid 35mm film was made by Agfa, Ferrania, Konica and Fuji, all at different times and with some overlapping. For example the 200 ASA could be Ferrania and the 400 could be Fuji or Agfa.
The only real way of knowing who made what, was after developing, to look at the film edge markings. (Agfa had purple squares, Fuji had green & purple lines, Konica sometimes had a black square otherwise looked like Kodak, Ferrania had orange dots and sometimes green + marking)
 

foc

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Paul Howell said:
The rolls I saw coded Fuji on the minilab.
Click to expand...


How I remember the details was that we had an optical Fuji minilab, before the Frontier, and the printer would read the film bar code and select the printing channel for it. You are right about Polaroid being on the Fuji channel.
We had sets of bull's eyes (Sherley) for all the different film brands and speeds. Polaroid changed at one stage and we couldn't get the bull's eye neg strip for it so we made our own. We shot the 4 steps with the new Polaroid film and it turned out to be Agfa. Did the same when it changed again.
 
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halfaman

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Then this one was done by Agfa (purple squares).





 
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