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Dev times for pyrocat-hd and fp4 + hp5?

Eric Rose

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I was looking at the Massive Dev site for dev times for pyrocat-hd and fp4 + hp5 in 120. They seemed high to me. What times do you use?

I rated the film at box speed and will develop them in tanks at 20C. The dilution I use is 1:1:100.

I'm really only interested in times that fit the above scenario.

Thanks
 
I use Pyrocat-MC and follow the development times that came with the chemicals from the Formulary, which are straight from Sandy King. Note that the suggested times are supposed to be 35% longer for printing on variable contrast silver paper which may be why you are seeing longer times on the massive dev chart. For box speed, 1:1:100 dilution, 20 C my times are as follows:
  • FP4+ sheet film is 10 minutes rotary processing in a Jobo expert drum (base time of 7:30 with 35% extra). FP4 in rolls I add 15% to that so 11.5 mins.
  • HP5 sheet film is 12 minutes rotary (9:00 mins with 35% extra). My time is 13:30 for HP5 roll film in tanks with inversion development where an extra 15% is recommended.
The Pyrocat-HD base times are longer but I would definitely suggest starting with the times in the above link and following the suggestions to add 35% and 15%.
 
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My P-MC times are fairly close to "adelorenzo's" above. I don't have the time in front of me, but I believe it's 10 min @ 24C for hand inversion of FP4+ and 11.5 min @ 24C for HP5+. I don't use P-MC now and have switched to P-HDC instead.
 
Thanks for the help. It's been sometime since I developed 35mm and MF FP4 and HP5 films and can't find my old notes. The PyroCat I am using is the kind with antifreeze in it whatever that is called. Lasts forever!
 
Density and contrast of your negatives in Pyrocat HD in Glycol at 1:1:100 will vary based on Time, Temperature, and Agitation. So take some control test shots, Pick any starting dev time near the recommendations for your workflow. Then adjust on the next roll. You may have to burn through 3-5 rolls to find your ideal.

I initially used the two bath method to get me started to determine what a Pyro negative should look like at the recommended 1A+20 + 1B+20 for 5mins each bath.
 
I think the MDC's times aren't bad. It all depends on the processing method - rotary, tray or inversion tank and that isn't always made clear there.

In my Jobo 2000 or Paterson Inversion tanks I process HP5 in Pyrocat HD for 15mins at 20ºC 1+1 to 100 @ 400EI, that give negative that print well on Gd 2 paper.

Tray development usually means more agitation so shorter times than inversion tanks,

Ian
 
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I've been using PanF a lot these days and really like it. Especially developed in PyroCat. Had some old HP5 and FP4 laying around and decided to use it up.
 
Eric Rose said:
I've been using PanF a lot these days and really like it. Especially developed in PyroCat. Had some old HP5 and FP4 laying around and decided to use it up.
Click to expand...

Pyrocat for Fp4 120 in stainless steel tank at 80 degrees - 7:15 min will give you Zone VII (1.3 density over filmbase + fog). That's using the commercial stuff. Per my earlier email, I am getting much shorter times when I mix up A and B from scratch... which has me scratching my head! I like your quotes.
 
Should have added: aggitate a full minute at first, then 5 sec every minute.
 
Mike McMullen said:
Should have added: aggitate a full minute at first, then 5 sec every minute.
Click to expand...

OK, anyone who cares, I figured out my home formula uses sodium bisulfiite, not metabisulfite, and metol instead of phenidone, for Stock A. And it uses sodium hydroxide instead of potasium carbonate. Finally, Sandy's recipe is 1 + 1 + 100, and mine is 1.5, 3 and 100. The formula I'm using came from an extremely experienced darkroom technician who shot large format for 60 yrs including R/D for Kodak on developers. But either the slight difference in components or the concentration when A and B are mixed makes it way more active. Any thoughts on the difference the compounds might make? I think I will try it at 1 + 1 + 100 for a test. Thanks.
 
Sodium Metabisulphite is just a very much purer form, what's sold as Bisulphite is a mixture of Bisulphite and Metabisulphite and give off less SO2 which is what preserves Part A once in solution. JT Baker make and sell both forms and Metabisulphite is a very much more efficient preservative.

Sandy King's Pyrocat M is not a direct Metol equivalent of Pyrocat HD as proportionally it uses a much smaller ratio of Metol to Pyrocatechin. He also suggested you could use Hydroxide for Part B.

Ian
 
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