Dev Times for Gaf Super HyPan ASA 500

[kb244]

Anyone have any development times for Gaf Super Hypan which is rated at ASA 500 made by Gaf Corporation?

 

[Paul Howell]

Unless someone has an data sheet I would develop it as either TX or HP5 but shoot it at 200 or 250. I found a roll last year on ebay and shot it, but it was just too fogged and could not get a usable image. Cant say that I liked Super Hypan much when it was still in production. I think GAF stopped film production in the late 70s.

 

[kb244]

I Got three rolls to try, so I guess will try the sugestion with one roll unless its fogged to hell, tho so far any rolls of B&W I got out of the basement has been pretty fine to date. The only problematic roll of B&W I had once, was one that was upstairs by the door, a roll of PlusX 125 , from 1972 that I know was gona be fogged because by the door for that many summers... sure enough it was fogged, but not too bad.. it did this shot ( Dead Link Removed ) , I'll try the sugestion and see how it goes. Kinda wish any old stuff I got was to some degree orthochromatic by character so I could develop by inspection the unknown ones.

 

[Paul Howell]

You can try this trick, shoot 13 frames, 10 shots + leader and go into the darkroom, open the back of the camera, with great care cut the film just to the right of the film cassett, depress the rewind button and wind out the exposed film. Use the 10 frames as a referance by shooting each frame at a differnt ISO then you can compensate for the developing time.

 

[Gerald Koch]

Whenever I am confronted with such situations where the development time is unknown I use a two bath developer like divided D-76 or Acufine.

The faster the film speed the more readily they suffer age fog. Thus Plus-X would last better than Super Hypan and Pan-X would last better than Plus-X. Good luck.

 

[Paul Howell]

Gerald has a very good point. Shoot at 400 and use a two bath developer like divided D76 or Dianfine. In Dianfine 3 mints for A and 3 mints in B.