dev chain for pyrocat HD glycol

pierods · May 27, 2008

Hi,
I am going to try pyro development, so I will order a bag of Pyrocat HD in glycol (should last more than non-glycol right?) and "The book of pyro" (it seems it relates to PMK but I hope concepts will apply as well).

Since I cannot read the book before ordering , will my current dev chain work or I need different stop/fix/wetting products?

I am currently using Ilford's Ilfostop, Ilford's Rapid Fixer, and Hama's wetting agent.

It works with standard developers (ID-11 and so forth), will it work with Pyrocat?

thanks

piero

Uhner · May 27, 2008

I would consider using a very dilute stop bath, or a plain water stop bath. Otherwise you should be OK with the chemicals you have.

Jim Noel · May 27, 2008

When using Pyrocat HD I prefer a water stop bath,and it is necessary to use a non-hardening fixer. Although I mix my own (I use Ryuji's formula), a regular one like Ilford without the hardener works well.

rwyoung · May 27, 2008

Plain water for stop. And alkaline non-hardening fixer like TF-4 or one of the published formulas.

pierods · May 27, 2008

Thanks!

timbo10ca · May 29, 2008

I thought Ilford Rapid fix was ok if you used HCA. I'm pretty certain I read that on Sandy King's site. Ilfostop at 1/2 to 1/3 strength as well. I've been doing this and so far no problems. Maybe long term?

Tim

sanking · May 29, 2008

My own work flow for staining developers is a one-half normal strength acetic stop bath, followed by an alkaline fixer. However, the use of a mildy acidic fixer does not reduce the image stain of negatives developed in Pyrocat-HD.

I don't recommend putting the negatives in the used developer after fixing. That serves no useful purpose, IMO, and may add useless B+F stain to the negatives.

Sandy King

Alex Hawley · May 29, 2008

I've always used a rapid fixer with pyrocat, either Ilford or TF4. Works fine.

pierods · May 30, 2008

sanking said:
My own work flow for staining developers is a one-half normal strength acetic stop bath, followed by an alkaline fixer. However, the use of a mildy acidic fixer does not reduce the image stain of negatives developed in Pyrocat-HD.

I don't recommend putting the negatives in the used developer after fixing. That serves no useful purpose, IMO, and may add useless B+F stain to the negatives.

Sandy King

Mr. King,

being a beginner:

- "one-half normal strength acetic stop bath" = I take Ilfostop and mix half the quantity recommended by Ilford?

- could you recommend an alkaline fixer? I reckon Ilford Rapid fixer is not.

- is there a website of yours where I can read about these things?

thank you.

piero de salvia

sanking · May 30, 2008

pierods said:
Mr. King,

being a beginner:

- "one-half normal strength acetic stop bath" = I take Ilfostop and mix half the quantity recommended by Ilford?

- could you recommend an alkaline fixer? I reckon Ilford Rapid fixer is not.

- is there a website of yours where I can read about these things?

thank you.

piero de salvia

Piero,

See an article I wrote on pyro staining developrers at http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html

It may answer some of your questions.

I personally use the Formulary TF-4 fixer, or I mix TF-3 as described in the Film Developing Cookbook.

Sandy King

haryanto · Jun 1, 2008

i use water for stopbath and plain fixer, 240gr/lt sodium thiosulfat , got maximum stain

dev chain for pyrocat HD glycol

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