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Delta Pro 400

Marvin

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Nov 11, 2009
Messages
404
Location
Williamston, NC
Format
Multi Format
Just picked up a couple of rolls of this and wondered how others like it and what developers you use. I got the 120 size for my ETRSi Bronica but I assume it would be similar in 35mm.
 
Marvin said:
Just picked up a couple of rolls of this and wondered how others like it and what developers you use. I got the 120 size for my ETRSi Bronica but I assume it would be similar in 35mm.
Click to expand...

ILFORD Delta 400 is a great film; however it can get very grainy if exposure and development are not dialled in correctly. I used the film in Ilfotec HC which is similar to Kodak HC-110, and Delta 400 should also work well in the classic D-76 formula.

What developer(s) do you have to hand?

Tom
 
I really like it in Ilford DD-X it comes out really smooth and fine grained---Shot at ISO400 developed for 8 Min. @68F
 
Use it regularly with replenished Xtol, works real nice.
 
Thanks for the info and I will probably be using D76 since I have 2 gallons unopened to mix up. I would like to try XTOL but want to use up the D76 first. I thought this film might be good for handheld shooting with the Bronica since it is 400 ISO.
 
I too have used it regularly (120) for many years and process in ID11. I shoot most often with a tripod but on a recent trip to Italy found it wasn't always possible to use my tripod and hand held which can be more limiting when you want to stop down. I've developed a few of the rolls which (also) ended up having to be x-rayed at airports and seem to be okay and not fogged.

Try it you'll like it.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
 
I've been using Delta 400 120 for a while now (rate at 64) with Rodinal and really like it. I do the Rodinal 1:100, 75F semi stand- 2 minute water presoak (without this, I have a lot of foam in the tank by the end of development - and only with this film/developer), then 2 minutes constant agitation, then agitation at the 4 minute mark, then every 4 minutes, stopping anywhere from 18 - 24 minutes depending on shooting conditions, etc.
Except for the first 2 minutes, each agitation is 8 inverted twists, taking exactly 15 seconds (agitation is how you control contrast with Rodinal). Normal time is 20 minutes. I use just enough developer to cover the reel (425cc with my Kinderman tank and Hewes reel).
Maybe more info than you wanted, but I got on a roll...
 
DD-X. Exactly as specified in the instructions.

I do shoot and push it to 800 and 1600. Personally, I think this combination makes a better ISO 1600 solution than buying 1600/3200 film.
 
I rate it at 400 and process it in divided Pyrocat-HD. As others have stated, overexposure or improper development will create a lot of grain. I learned this the hard way by rating it at half the given film speed, a procedure that worked very well for me with Fuji Acros 100 and Ilford Delta 100. The Delta 400, for me, turns out to be a "true" 400-speed film. Color me shocked and amazed but delighted with the extra speed.

Peter Gomena
 
Ken N said:
DD-X. Exactly as specified in the instructions.

I do shoot and push it to 800 and 1600. Personally, I think this combination makes a better ISO 1600 solution than buying 1600/3200 film.
Click to expand...

So you prefer Delta 400 @1600 to Delta 3200 @1600? 13.5 minutes with DD-X 1+4 like the box states? I'm experimenting with this myself, and Delta 3200 for 8 minutes.
 
hpulley said:
So you prefer Delta 400 @1600 to Delta 3200 @1600? 13.5 minutes with DD-X 1+4 like the box states? I'm experimenting with this myself, and Delta 3200 for 8 minutes.
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Yes, I do. Delta 3200 at 1600 has a wonderful tonality, but the grain is like golf balls. Delta 400 at 1600 is slightly stunted in tonality as compared to shooting it at 400, but the grain, when processed in DD-X, the grain doesn't bloom.
 
DDX or Xtol 1+something. I normally use Xtol 1+2 for economy and gentle action.

I am happy enough not to bother with anything else. Great speed (far better than the D76 type devs) nice grain structure and decent tonality.

D400 makes good speed (a teeny weeny hair more than the TriX, Neopan 400 crowd) but the difference between D400 pushed and D3200 at 1600 is still going to be at least a stop in the shadows. If you need true shadow speed, IMO D400 pushed is no substitute for D3200 unfortunately. The demise of Neopan 1600 is a shame as that film gave a true 2/3 to a stop over the 400 speed films but with the same level of grain and detail as TriX (if not better). Bridged the gap nicely, but alas... D3200 has the grain and it can look terrible, but also superb for certain subjects. Prints can be made to sparkle too.
 
Yes, it really sucks that they pulled Neopan 1600 without warning. I thought I had a line on some 20-box pro packs but they seem to have evaporated. I was going to clean out mail orders but I've decided instead that I just need to figure out which of Delta 400 and 3200 I'm going to use instead since Ilford is what I can get the easiest. I will try pushing HP5+ to 1600 as well and see which I prefer for which shooting situations.
 
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