Delta 400 shot @ 100!!!

[23mjm]

So lets say someone shot Delta400 at 100 anyone have any ideas on how they should develop it??? Available develop are DD-X, XTOL, & ID-11. They are kinda important pictures, would like to get the best out of them. :confused::confused::confused::confused:

 

[André E.C.]

Well, tricky situation, never got such an issue with this film, but, I was teached once to never hand develop any film for less than 5 minutes, therefore, try something over 5 minutes (15 seconds maybe?) and you should be quite close, Ilford Photo says 6 minutes at EI200, but you still have a stop to go.


Use that DD-X.


Good luck!



André

 

[Mike Crawford]

You can always dilute the developer further to make a more managable dev time. ID11 is fine to use at 1+3. If the film is very important, best thing is to shoot some more film at the same speed so you have something to test. A test roll could be cut into three and each clip given different times. I would imagine a 20 to 30% cut in time should be OK but it depends on the contrast of the shots. I would think the negs may be a bit flat but will have lots of detail from highlights to shadows so should be fine to print with a touch more contrast.

 

[André E.C.]

Mike is right, you can always try a higher dilution like for example 1:9 and increase your development time by 125% over the recommended 1:4 one.




André

 

[2F/2F]

That's not so bad. In general, I might just take some time off; perhaps 25% or so. A lot depends on the contrast of what you shot, however. In some cases (such as flat lighting), it might be better to just develop normally and print the negs down two stops than it would be to lower contrast even more from the underdevelopment.

 

[kraker]

And of course, if they're important shots, you could (perhaps even "should"...) first shoot another roll of Delta 400 at 100, and try out the suggestions regarding development made by others before developing the first roll.

 

[titrisol]

if you plan to PRINT have no fear in using the time for 200, however if you are going to scan use the Ilford time for 200 - 25% (~5 MIN)
or increase the dilution to 1+9 and develop for ~8minutes

 

[JBrunner]

Yup, 5 min in stock ID-11 would put you in about right. The suggestion to test is a very good one. Since you say these are important, go snap a sheet at 100 and try it out. A few minutes effort in return for peace of mind will be worth it IMO.

 

[seawolf66]

Hey : I scewed up real good on FP-4 and got good results , using ID-11 diluted 1-3 for 9 mins and I was 3-1/2 stops over :

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20061301939551456.pdf for info on delta 400

 

[patricia de roeck]

Well, must be the week for this mistake! Just did the very same thing but out of curiosity decided to process the film as though exposed correctly - used Perceptol 1+3 at 20deg. for 13 min. I've just come out of the darkroom and they've printed very nicely indeed - if only all my mistakes could end so well! Should point out that all the shots were in flattish/low light, nothing with high contrast - anyway, don't despair, they'll be fine.
Good luck - Patricia

 

[Andrew4x5]

According to the Ilford data sheet for Delta 400, you should expose it at 200ASA if you use ID11 at 1:3 (18 min). So that means you have only over-exposed one stop - hardly a fatal error. Also, Delta 400 (like all B&W films?) has plenty of headroom for over-exposure.
Andrew

 

[haris]

Why don't ask Ilford directly by Email?

 

[23mjm]

Thank you all for your help---If you care here is the story and outcome. My girlfriend and I got an opportunity to shoot in an old factory. The GF wanted to shoot MF so I let her use my Mamiya 645-1000s and 645e. She loaded one with 100 and the other with 400 (it can be very dark in the factory 400 is very nice at times), she also wanted to hand meter everything. Well she forgot to adjust the ISO when she changed cameras sometimes, others she did. Well after a talk we decided we really didn't know which rolls had be miss shot if it was a whole roll, she did change the meter every once in a while. SO we developed 100@100 and 400@400. You know you can tell the 400 frames shot at 100, they are thin and flat, BUT I think they are still very printable---a little grade 4 or 5 should to the trick . We just chalked it up as a learning experience, knowing her she will never make this mistake again, and she loves the MF and wants to buy it from me, which is nice because I want to sell it. Here is a pic scanned with the contrast levels brought up in NX2 I feel we could do better in the darkroom, and will use it as a teaching experience, she says she is looking forward to it!!!

Thank you all again.

 

[titrisol]

Are you sure? 40 exposed as 100 should be thick (2 stops overexposed)