Delta 3200 expensive to develop

ericdan · Mar 14, 2014

Only problem I had were watermarks on the dried film.

Nuff · Mar 14, 2014

Get fuji equivalent to photoflo. Fuji chemicals/fixer/etc are dirt cheap compared to kodak and ilford in japan.
I used to have paterson reels, I hate them. Last year I picked up LPL reels in Yodobashi and they are million times better. The film doesn't stick and pretty much self loads.
They are more expensive, but I think well worth it. And can be used wet, I think that's very important in Japan, because of the high humidity. If plastic reels get a bit of moisture on them, the film will get stuck.

Fuji equivalent to photoflo:
http://www.yodobashi.com/富士フイルム-FUJIFILM-ドライウエル（200ｃｃ）/pd/000000110352500137/

Fuji Fixer (all fuji fixers have hardeners):
http://www.yodobashi.com/富士フイルム-FUJIFILM-スーパーフジフィックス-L-3L-4L/pd/100000001000791449/

Fuji quickwash, good idea to use with fuji fixer to cut down on wash times:
http://www.yodobashi.com/富士フイルム-FUJIFILM-富士QW-水洗促進剤-2L/pd/100000001000485903/

Fuji stop:
http://www.yodobashi.com/富士フイルム-FUJIFILM-富士酢酸（50％）-1L-1リットル/pd/100000001000485902/

It's 50% acidic solution, so I have no idea about the mixing ratios....

Xmas · Mar 14, 2014

Use more detergent/surfant in final rinse and a film squeegee.

The reels need to be 24 hours in an airing cupboard and still need skill.

Andrew O'Neill · Mar 14, 2014

Only problem I had were watermarks on the dried film.

Photo-Flo equivalent in Japan is Fuji's DryWell. I stocked up on it the last time I was there... as well as Fuji QuickWash.
If you use QuickWash or Photo-Flo it is not necessary to use a film squeegee. Use distilled water.

Xmas · Mar 14, 2014

Andrew O'Neill said:
If you use QuickWash or Photo-Flo it is not necessary to use a film squeegee. Use distilled water.

Andrew means use a final rinse of distilled water and surfant if your water quality is resonable that may be ok.

The squeegee allows the film to dry faster in a humid environment less exposure to dust. He may live in 0% relative humidity with filtered air...

Dust means respotting each wet print with fine camel hair brush.

SebastianKrauss · Mar 14, 2014

dust/scratches

Touching the film after developing until it is completely dry is a no-go for me. I have developed the following workflow which works for me:

- Insert the film into the developing reel with the emulsion side inwards.
- final rinse with destilled water
- hang the complete reel to dry without touching the film

I have no dust and scratch issues any more. (at least resulting from the developing stage, loading sheet film holders and dust on the neg holder in the enlarger is another topic I#m still fighting with)

Best,
SK

Nuff · Mar 14, 2014

I have a squeegee and I only used it once. Never again! Scratched negs and left smears all over the negs.

GarageBoy · Mar 14, 2014

Don't be so quick to swap
When dried, and clean, the Paterson reels are not bad at all.
The one time I had the perfect load, it took less than 20 seconds
My short fingers make getting the film on the Hewes reels surprisingly hard (I do get quick loads as soon as I can get the prongs on)

P3200 TMZ was the reason I forced myself to develop my own

ericdan · Mar 17, 2014

jun said:
I don't know what lab did you sent for processing but generally B&W film process are getting very expensive in "Japan".
It is not because of "Delta 3200" rather all black & white film processing.
However I know that Yodobashi may charge 1550 yen for Delta 3200 and TMZ which I think it is ridiculous without push, but NOTE that they may charge you 2350 yen for push processing Delta 3200!!!
That is insane!
If you use so called "pro lab" to process B&W film, they will probably charge you more than 1000 yen even with other films like T-MAX films, etc. (no push or pull)
That is the way it is.
The "pro lab" that I occasionally use for processing (via mail), charges the most for the B&W films, then C41 films and the least for the E6 films.
Yes, the cheapest is E6 films!
So I use the pro lab mentioned above for E6 processing (488 yen approx 4.8 USD per one roll of 120 E6 film)
If you think that over 1000 yen is too expensive for B&W films, the only way left is to process by yourself.

You mind sharing the name of that lab? Would like to give that a try, too.

Delta 3200 expensive to develop

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