I'm planning to shoot Delta 3200 at EI3200. It's only my third roll of this film and first one that I'm about to push to 3200 (first two were shot at 1600).
Right. Here's an excerpt from datasheet:I'm confused. You are shooting the film at its box speed recommended rating. Where is the push?
Wouldn't that mean that shooting and developing it at EI3200 is already a push?
That's what I did with previous two rolls and they came out well, just a bit dark in the shadows. But this time I want to try exposing at EI3200.If it was me, I would probably opt to shoot it at 1600 and then develop using D-76 1:1 for the recommended time for 3200 using a standard Ilford agitation routine
No, no, of course there isn't a magic bullet. I'm well aware that pushing film won't create shadow details where film was unable to capture light. But thank you for pointing that out, I tend to forget it all.There is no magic bullet of retaining all the lower shadow details at 3200, they suffer no matter what
Perhaps I over-agitated it previously, because it was rather contrasty and highlights were nearly too bright.It tends to be a low contrast film so when you have less worries about highlights getting blocked when you increase development time.
This is basically what I was looking for. It seems that Xtol with 1+1 dilution is going to give reasonable results. I have around 800 ml from last batch, some of which I used a week ago, should be fine.Develop normally as recommended by Ilford, either in XTOL or D-76. Compared with D-76, XTOL will tend to produce very slightly more emulsion speed (not worth quibbling over) and slightly lower highlight contrast.
Either at stock or 1+1 is fine.
Don’t bother with the diluting and reducing agitation. Unless they are fairly extreme they do nothing, and increase the risk of problems.
I would have done that, but since I only have single roll remaining (others are all Tmax 3200) and supplier doubled the price on Delta 3200, I think it's just not worth it. Might as well push HP5+ to 1600 next time.What might be worthwhile and tell you a lot would be to take a whole roll if possible in the same light conditions, then cut the film in half. Develop one half in llford times with one of the developers and the other half at the 6400 time in that same developer. Examine the negatives and decide from that or better still from prints which of the two times you prefer.
I guess since they are "pro" films, it was expected that users would know they are pushing it.What has always confused me about Delta and TMax 3200 is that neither are a true 3200 speed film yet both are Dx coded for 3200.
Yes, 1+1 of Xtol seems reasonable, cause I have to use whatever I have left, sooner rather than later. It's been sitting there for 6 months already. Probably nearing its end of shelf life.Xtol or D-76. Pick one. I would use Xtol, because that is what I have on hand.
In my experience Delta 3200 takes a long time to develop in XTOL. Microphen (ID-68) or DD-X / T-Max etc. is probably a better option.
Ah yes Moonrise, of course and thank you. I get confused. It's all down to "sunset, sunrise, swiftly flow the days but sadly not the blood to my brain"MoonRISE. How dare you, pentaxuser.
Perhaps I over-agitated it previously, because it was rather contrasty and highlights were nearly too bright.
.
1. Indeed, they do lack detail, somwtimes even at EI1600, if shot in dim light.1) if you expose any ISO 1000 film at 3200, the shadows will lack detail;
2) such an under-exposed film will often give results that appear better in the midtones - where most of the really important stuff is - if you increase the contrast by increasing the development;
3) for "normal" films like Ilford Delta 400 (as an example) that increase in development involves an important compromise: while the mid-tones look better on your under-exposed film, the highlights go too dense on the negative, and you lose a lot of quality in the highlights (the second most important part of the scene);
3) for special purpose films like Delta 3200, if you meter and develop them at their ISO speed of 1000, the shadow detail is great, but the mid-tones and highlights tend to be really flat, because they are very low in contrast. However, if you under-expose them at 1600 or 3200, and use the increased development, while the shadow detail will be missing , the contrast and detail in the mid-tones will be good, and the highlights will be much better than a "normal" film with the same amount of increased development.
I prefer to think of the increased development times for Delta 3200 (and T-Max 3200) to not be "push" developments but rather expansion developments, prescribed by the manufacturer for the purpose of dealing with those films' inherently low contrast.
Those two films are a really good choice at their native ISO's (~1000) for dealing with extra contrasty subjects. No extended development in that case. But their design is optimized for circumstances where under-exposure is mandated by the conditions.
I would have gone for Microphen, if my supplier had it in stock. Sadly they don't and no one knows when the next batch comes, so I'm stuck with whatever I have.In my experience Delta 3200 takes a long time to develop in XTOL. Microphen (ID-68) or DD-X / T-Max etc. is probably a better option.
18 minutes is not too bad for me. Doesn't sharpness suffer a wee bit in stock Xtol?I don't usually rate Delta 3200 above EI 1600, and I've never developed it at EI 3200. So I checked the Massive Development Chart - it shows 7 min in stock XTOL, and 18 min for 1+1. So, yes, the 1+1 dilution is long, so stock would seem to be the better option.
Wouldn't that mean that shooting and developing it at EI3200 is already a push?
I saw that one not so long ago, but I couldn't find any photos corresponding to that technique.I use John Hicks’ Xtol 1:2 @ 24C times here:
https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Times/D3200/d3200.html
I love the results!
I would have gone for Microphen, if my supplier had it in stock. Sadly they don't and no one knows when the next batch comes, so I'm stuck with whatever I have.
18 minutes is not too bad for me. Doesn't sharpness suffer a wee bit in stock Xtol?
I saw that one not so long ago, but I couldn't find any photos corresponding to that technique.
Thank you. I was surprised with smoothness of the results before I read "Pentax 67". Grain would probably be all over the place if it were 35 mm.here are a couple shots developed in Xtol 1:2 for 20 min @ 24C. They're not really EI3200, though the first probably was, rather they were shot wide open (ƒ2.4 for the first and ƒ2.8 for the second) at 1/30 handheld late at night. The second was probably closer to EI6400. These were shot on a Pentax 67:
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