Is this nothing to worry about and/or normal for this film, or is something strange going on?
I noticed this issue while I had a different roll in fixer from the same bottle(Shanghai GP3), and that one fixed fine.
This looks normal to me. Ilford films tend to retain a magenta tinge rather easily (or, more aptly put: it's a bit more difficult to get the magenta out), but in practice it's not really a source of worry if this happens. Ilford has published something about this on their website.
The strip you're showing in the photo doesn't look very milky to me. See how it dries up; I think it's perfectly normal. The 'milkiness' you're seeing is probably just the swollen gelatin layer on both sides of the film; this diffuses light a little, giving it a milky appearance. As the gelatin dries, it compacts and the surface becomes less rough, reducing this diffusion effect dramatically.
If the magenta bothers you, you could make some fresh fixer and fix the film for 10 minutes or so. Note that it helps to use fresh fixer. A big part of the reason you're not getting rid of the magenta is the reused fixer. Again, it's not really a concern either way as long as the silver halide is fixed out, which seems to be the case.
I trust you know that Delta films (like TMAX films) require longer fixing than classic, cubic grain films.
Yeah, GP3 doesn't have this persistent magenta dye. I think the magenta dye is part of the anti-halation protection Harman uses.
Thanks everyone.
I don't use cubic grain films very often, and 90% of what I shoot is Tri-X or occasionally HP5, although funny enough of 5 rolls processed yesterday, not a one was Tri-X(I had HP5, Double-X, Shanghai GP3, and 7ft piece of 70mm Plus-X Aerographic). The HP5 I developed yesterday was faintly pink also, but nowhere as noticeable as this.
The film did look less milky once dried. I know all films have the look a little bit, but it just caught me off-guard. I'll let it be with the magenta dye remaining.
And yes, I know that T-grain films are trickier to fix than traditional grain films. IIRC, isn't it partially related to their higher AgI content compared to other films? I have a few more rolls of this to shoot, and I'm wondering if it's worthwhile prepping a fresh batch of fixer to fix these.
I trust you know that Delta films (like TMAX films) require longer fixing than classic, cubic grain films.
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