Delta 100 in HC-110 or Rodinal?

[Poohblah]

Hi guys. I have a very small amount of Delta 100 in various formats and I also have HC-110 and Rodinal which I mix in one-shot dilutions. Which of these two developers and what developing method do you recommend? I shot at box speed and some of the film is unexposed, i.e. undetermined subject matter, so I would like to get a negative that is as printable as possible as opposed to contrasty but grainy or super-duper-sharp but with poor tonality.

I search and come up with threads like this: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
I don't want XTOL. I'm not going to buy a new developer just for a few rolls. I want to know what characteristics this film has in these developers.

 

[MikeSeb]

Of the two, I'd vote for HC-110. With neither developer, however, are you likely to achieve "box speed" with this film; 64 is more like it. D-76 or Xtol would likely improve that situation, but you've said you don't want to buy more developer.

 

[Poohblah]

I used HC-110 dilution H (1+63) for 7 minutes, 2 inversions every minute. Turned out pretty good. Negatives looked like they dropped off sharply in the shadow, but a scan picks up the detail just fine. Stupid roll was fraught with all sorts of problems: frame spacing was off, then advance knob finally broke; final frame is half on and half off of the film; minor light leaks; uneven development. At least the negative/dev combo worked out ok; I think I can salvage something.

 

[eddym]

I'm with Mike, but I'd add Ilford DD-X to the list of better developers that you don't want to buy.
Given your developers available, I'd go with the HC110.

 

[vedmak]

delta is a t-grain film, it is better used with developers that complement modern grain xtol or ddx would be a better choice, I would suggest you not to use Rodinal with this film

 

[Poohblah]

delta is a t-grain film, it is better used with developers that complement modern grain xtol or ddx would be a better choice, I would suggest you not to use Rodinal with this film

Yes; I am aware of that. Unfortunately, the local camera shop had no film in 120 size but the convenience store (of all places?!) had some Delta 100 in stock. Usually I maintain a healthy stock of Acros, which works well with HC-110, but I am very low on money.

 

[mcfactor]

I love delta 100 in Rodinal 1:100 for 20 mins. The negatives are extremely sharp with great tonality and (for me) full fim speed. I always found hc-110 too grainy and not sharp enough

 

[David Beal]

It depends. Delta 100 as a T grain film is theoretically best shot at box speed and some say DD-X is best for it. I shoot it at 50 & use Rodinal 1:50 because I like the look. YMMV.


Good shooting!
David

 

[MaximusM3]

@ 50 and Rodinal works great. If you want non-existent grain and sharpness shoot @ 50 and develop in Rollei RLS. Doesn't get much better, IMO of course. Not cheap though.
Example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/leicaman/4411141592/in/set-72157623318963523/lightbox/

 

[Poohblah]

I love delta 100 in Rodinal 1:100 for 20 mins. The negatives are extremely sharp with great tonality and (for me) full fim speed. I always found hc-110 too grainy and not sharp enough

Funny; I've always had grainier results with Rodinal than the same film in HC-110.

 

[rwboyer]

I agree - I tried to like HC110 for a long time (cheap, easy to get, etc) but... The grain is not really "more" than Rodinal but it certainly produces ugly grain (vs. good looking grain), its sort of clumpy and indistinct. So I second the Rodinal, esp at the higher dilutions to tame the highlights a hair.

RB

Ps. If you like Rodinal you most certainly will like Pyrocat HD at 1+1+100 - cheap and easy.

 

[MaximusM3]

I agree - I tried to like HC110 for a long time (cheap, easy to get, etc) but... The grain is not really "more" than Rodinal but it certainly produces ugly grain (vs. good looking grain), its sort of clumpy and indistinct. So I second the Rodinal, esp at the higher dilutions to tame the highlights a hair.

RB

Ps. If you like Rodinal you most certainly will like Pyrocat HD at 1+1+100 - cheap and easy.

I don't know...the issue of "grain" with this or that developer drives me crazy sometimes. Ugly or beautiful grain is, to me, more related to light and exposure, with agitation and/or water temperature fluctuations (like developing @ 68 and stopping/fixing @ 75) a close second and not the inherent qualities/abilities of a given developer.
This, for example, was shot on Tri-X @ 200ISO, HC110 dilution E (1:50), with good lighting/exposure and one would be hard pressed to even find grain unless blown up to poster size. http://www.flickr.com/photos/leicaman/4810680098/lightbox/

Now, this is Tri-X @ 400ISO souped in Rodinal 1:50 using our esteemed APUG luminary, Mr. Cardwell's method of 20 min with minimal agitation (once every 5 min). Different light and tonalities but also slightly more noticeable grain. http://www.flickr.com/photos/leicaman/4803065701/lightbox/

Best,

Max

 

[2F/2F]

Both of them are great with Delta 100 IME. I'd use Rodinal if you want to really sharpen the t-grain up, and HC-110 for a smoother look.

 

[rwboyer]

Both of them are great with Delta 100 IME. I'd use Rodinal if you want to really sharpen the t-grain up, and HC-110 for a smoother look.

As the above poster said - the grain is not that much less if at all, esp at higher dilutions of HC110 - there is virtually no solvent effect at 1+50 or higher with HC-110.

RB

 

[P C Headland]

I've only shot a couple of rolls of Delta 100 (120). Hiwever, both times I shot at box speed and dev'ed them in Rodinal 1+50. Nice contrast, sharp, little grain and a sort of "metallic" look.

Whether I use Rodinal at 1+50 or 1+100, I tend to go easy on the agitation, just doing gentle inversions.