DoryBreaux
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Just to be sure, you disabled ICE on your scanner, right?
For some reason I've become very paranoid about temp control. I mix between 20.5 and 21.5 and by the time I pour it, its between 19.8 and 20.8. I check before I pour.
+1DD-X is not a fine grain developer. I find ILFOTEC HC and ID11 to give finer grain in comparison.
Maybe I'm misreading this, but it makes no sense to judge the grain and sharpness of a negative from a scan with ICE or other manipulations turned on. Besides that, I didn't think ICE worked for anything but color film.
And yes, DD-X is marketed as a fine grain developer.
Right. I misread it.@bvy I don't use ICE. I tried it once just to see how effective it was/wasn't.
Oh I do so hope you aren't kiddingRight. I misread it.
I also made the mistake of using it once. When I saw smoke coming from my scanner, I stopped.
I'm kidding. I meant that it seemed like a lot of wear and tear on the scanner. It ran a LONG time, and it gave me a rather plastic looking image. I only scan for reference purposes anyway, and occasionally online sharing. And I don't have a huge dust problem to begin with.Oh I do so hope you aren't kidding. I like the idea of ICE but in practice... Ugh.
Interesting, assuming your temp is 68F then the time given by Kodak is 10.30 which is 24% more, thus quite a lot. I know nothing of scanning but I recall seeing at least hints from others with scanning skills that a lower time for good scanning can be better. Maybe that's the answerI've developed Delta 100 in Xtol 1+1 and DDX 1+4 and my times are 8:30 and 9:30, respectively. Sweet film in those two.
Temperature control is very important but it's important that all stages including washing are tightly controlled, you need to avoid changes of more than +/- 1ºC between each stage. It's actually very easy once you get the hang of it.
Ian
I can't see how poor temp control for something such as washing matters. I have processed hundreds upon hundreds of rolls of film in the past 6 years and very often (especially while in China during summer) my tap water comes out very warm. I would process my film at 20 C (using ice to cool the tap water) and then wash with water that was up to 26 C or higher. I never saw any poor side effects from this lack of temperature control.
Variation in temperature can lead to reticulation. So I've read. I've never done that experiment.I can't see how poor temp control for something such as washing matters. I have processed hundreds upon hundreds of rolls of film in the past 6 years and very often (especially while in China during summer) my tap water comes out very warm. I would process my film at 20 C (using ice to cool the tap water) and then wash with water that was up to 26 C or higher. I never saw any poor side effects from this lack of temperature control.
Variation in temperature can lead to reticulation. So I've read. I've never done that experiment.
This is clearly NOT true, as I have close to 1000 rolls of film without even the slightest sign of reticulation.
That clearly makes it not true.This is clearly NOT true, as I have close to 1000 rolls of film without even the slightest sign of reticulation.
Rattymouse was able to keep the range of temps to within 6C so about 68-78F or 10F . This may not be enough with modern films especially the likes of HP5+ to have much, if any, effect. Ian Grant, a very experienced person in all things processing has said that there is such a thing a micro-reticulation which can be triggered by quite a low range of temps.
I am able to keep my temps to within 1 degree C so I can presume I have had no experience of it. However I wonder how difficult it would be to spot under a grain magnifier with 35mm film and more importantly whether it would be apparent at say 5x7 - my normal enlargement - or even 8x10.
I am unclear how you spot this micro-reticulation but that may well deserve another thread
pentaxuser
This is clearly NOT true, as I have close to 1000 rolls of film without even the slightest sign of reticulation.
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