Dektol Questions:

[John Galt]

I am confused by the way Kodak describes the capacity of Dektol.

Dektol working solution according to Kodak is 1+2. Then states capacity as 32 8x10 RC Paper prints per litre.

I assume that this means 32 8 x 10 prints per litre of working solution?

Also . . . I have a friend who uses Dektol stock solution in the tray, has done it for years. Says he gets a lot more capacity. Me, I am a ret. Engineer . . directions are printed on the product for a reason ... Thoughts on using stock solution in the tray?

Thanks

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

I rarely count how many prints I've run through the developer to calculate exhaustion. If it takes a lot of time, more than 1 1/2 minutes, I toss the developer. Also, very exhausted developer will brownish and your blacks won't be as deep.

 

[MattKing]

Use it at recommended dilution. And yes that is 32 prints per liter of working solution.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Using Dektol, et al. at a stronger that recommended dilution will sometimes enable you to eke out just a bit more contrast from a print. Not really needed if you have enough filtration, but for the occasional weak neg, it can help (as will adding carbonate and BTZ together). Measures like this are generally not needed. So, use it 1+2.

As for capacity, you'll waste less paper staying within the guidelines. At the end of a session I might go ahead and exceed recommendations for a print or so, keeping a careful eye on the blacks, but generally, if I feel the developer is weak, I'll toss it and mix more. Print developer is cheap.

Doremus

 

[mshchem]

I always try to use manufacturer instructions. Personally I use Bromophen. I mix up 5 liters of stock then fill 250mL bottles. When I'm ready I mix the 250mL with DI water to make up 1 liter. 1&3 is Ilford's recommended dilution.

B&W print processing temperature, time, and developer exhaustion doesn't get enough attention.

Current papers require full development at a controlled temperature in fresh developer. Compensating timers work well. I'm lucky in that most of the year I can keep my darkroom around 20°C.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I am confused by the way Kodak describes the capacity of Dektol.

Dektol working solution according to Kodak is 1+2. Then states capacity as 32 8x10 RC Paper prints per litre.

I assume that this means 32 8 x 10 prints per litre of working solution?

Also . . . I have a friend who uses Dektol stock solution in the tray, has done it for years. Says he gets a lot more capacity. Me, I am a ret. Engineer . . directions are printed on the product for a reason ... Thoughts on using stock solution in the tray?

Thanks

I use Kodak Dektol1+2 working solution in a tray and also get a lot more than 10 8x10 per litre. Dektol is just a very long lasting developer. use it until you start to see weak blacks or experience very long developing times. It's fantastic stuff.

 

[Brendan Quirk]

I use 10 oz stock and 20 oz water, for a total of 30 oz. I will put about 18 8x10 through in one session, with a occasional maximum of about 24. I have never seen a problem, I can believe 32, but I never get that far. I never reuse the Dektol, don't think it worth it. It can be hard to use up all of the stock before it oxidizes, as one gallon gives 12+ printing sessions for me.

 

[John Galt]

Thanks everyone for your responses . . . I just mixed up a new batch of 1 gallon of stock solution today then a working solution of 20 oz plus 40 oz . . roughly 1/2 gallon. I was mainly confused about the capacity referring to the stock or working solution . . .thanks for helping me out. I tried using the stock solution once in a printing session and noticed much higher contrast (maybe two grades??) . . too hot for me. Thanks again

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Thanks everyone for your responses . . . I just mixed up a new batch of 1 gallon of stock solution today then a working solution of 20 oz plus 40 oz . . roughly 1/2 gallon. I was mainly confused about the capacity referring to the stock or working solution . . .thanks for helping me out. I tried using the stock solution once in a printing session and noticed much higher contrast (maybe two grades??) . . too hot for me. Thanks again

I’d use it with the recommend dilution. In the old days of graded papers, changing the dilution of the developer was a way to change paper a 1/2 grade. Look up Dr. Beers paper developer.

 

[markbau]

I always try to use manufacturer instructions. Personally I use Bromophen. I mix up 5 liters of stock then fill 250mL bottles. When I'm ready I mix the 250mL with DI water to make up 1 liter. 1&3 is Ilford's recommended dilution.

B&W print processing temperature, time, and developer exhaustion doesn't get enough attention.

Current papers require full development at a controlled temperature in fresh developer. Compensating timers work well. I'm lucky in that most of the year I can keep my darkroom around 20°C.

I couldn't agree more with your second paragraph. A friend of mine who taught darkroom work at a high school tried telling me that print development time was not important. Next time I printed I developed two identically exposed prints, for 2 mins and 3 mins, when I showed them to him he was genuinely surprised at the difference. I use a home beer brewing mat to keep my print developer at 20C, not because anything magical happens at 20C but because I want to be the one controlling the variables. I was lucky enough to have been taught a lot of my early darkroom education by an LA photographer who had attended AA workshops at Yosemite and I also attended a Howard Bond workshop. Howard was a great teacher who always insisted that good darkroom habits be followed. Another area where people make mistakes is with their safelight. They just plug them in and away they go, never testing them properly. It's amazing how much better your prints become by following sound darkroom practices.