Dektol Capacity

Born2Late

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I've been using Dektol since the early / mid 70's. I have always been happy with the results, but not so much with the life of the product. About a month or so ago I ordered some Photographers Formulary 130 paper developer to try. While it is a little slower, the image quality is every bit as good as Dektol (in my opinion) and the life is very significantly better. The initial cost / unit is higher for the 130, but the way I work I suspect that the initial cost is offset by the longevity. I started to run some numbers to see but after looking at the Dektol packaging I am unsure what the capacity is. It states that the capacity is 32 8x10's per liter or 120 per gallon, but it does not state if that is stock or working solution. After all of these years you would think that I would have questioned that. On the other hand, it goes bad before I can exhaust it so I've never really found out by actual use.

Can anyone clarify for me please?

Thanks
 

MattKing

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Born2Late

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Thanks Matt,

If I had been forced to have bet, that would have been my guess. Nice straightforward, concise language would have been nice though; I don't think the ink cost for a few more characters would have broken the budget. Or maybe Photographers Formulary's instruction sheets have spoiled me.
 

MattKing

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The chart I linked to is one of two "go to" Kodak documents - probably a holdover from when most Dektol was sold in "industrial" size packages.
I've never relied on the Klodak packaging instructions for anything other than mixing.
One reason might be as well that most of the Kodak chemicals come in packages with multi-language labeling.
 

Nodda Duma

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The working strength dektol I mixed in the fall still seems to be good albeit a rich yellow color. The latest prints I shared in the media was developed last week in the stuff. I'm sure I'm losing some tonality tho.

My go to print developer is PolymaxT. Happened to come across some old canisters of dektol tho.
 

Doc W

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I have been printing a lot lately with Dektol and really paying attention to what is going on because I want to be able to reproduce the same print at a later date. I have started printing a Stouffer test strip before each session and if it looks like the previous session, I figure I am ok. Having said that, Hexavalent and I just mixed up a batch of homemade Dektol (D-72 formula from Anchell) and wow, it is SO much punchier than the Dektol I mixed up in early November (stock, which I dilute 1:3 and develop for 2'). I will have to see how long it lasts.
 

Gerald C Koch

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In order to get the degree of reproducibility you desire it would be necessary to use the developer as a one-shot. I have a Mitchell-Honeywell color canoe which I use exactly for that purpose. It requires only a couple of ounces of developer and so is still economical. You can sometimes pick them up on ebay.
 

darkroommike

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Nodda Duma said:
The working strength dektol I mixed in the fall still seems to be good albeit a rich yellow color. ....
Click to expand...

You are not using the developer as Kodak intended, which may be why you are having problems. Dektol and it's sister D-72 are intended to be diluted and used one-shot for as many as 32 prints per liter of developer (depends on dilution). I usually use it for a much more conservative 20 prints per tray of developer. I have been know to float a second identical tray on top of my setup trays to keep air off the solutions overnight, works much like floating lids. On the second day I use the developer only for proof sheets and file prints. I figure a pint/500ml of stock is good for 20 prints regardless of dilution.
 

Nodda Duma

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Hi darkroommike,

You may have misunderstood my post...I'm not having any problems that I can complain about using dektol the way I am. The prints look fabulous.
Regards,
Jason
 

Doc W

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Gerald C Koch said:
... a Mitchell-Honeywell color canoe ...
Click to expand...

Gerald, I have NO idea what that might be, but it does sound intriguing! You can't say "canoe" to a Canadian without explaining in more detail.
 

Leigh B

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Gerald C Koch said:
I have a Mitchell-Honeywell color canoe which I use exactly for that purpose. It requires only a couple of ounces of developer and so is still economical.
Click to expand...
Regardless of developing technique, you must always use at least the minimum amount of developer (concentrate) as spec'd by the manufacturer.

- Leigh
 

MattKing

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Doc W said:
Gerald, I have NO idea what that might be, but it does sound intriguing! You can't say "canoe" to a Canadian without explaining in more detail.
Click to expand...
There has been an 8x10 one on Vancouver Craigslist for quite a while: https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/bnc/pho/5936886476.html
The reference to "Heath" is because , at least in Canada, they were sold through Heathkit stores - one of my favourite places when I was younger.
I've been tempted by that one on Craigslist ever since it appeared, but I really don't lack options for 8x10.
 

Doc W

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Does this thing actually work? I would use it for 8x10 b&w.
 

MattKing

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Doc W said:
Does this thing actually work? I would use it for 8x10 b&w.
Click to expand...
Yes. It is a great solution for those who want to try single tray processing.
You have to develop a routine that involves wide mouth containers to easily pour the chemicals from and into, but that isn't difficult.
They are a little bit difficult to store, in that they don't really "nest" with anything else.
They are stainless steel. I expect that if someone were to manufacture them today, they would be really expensive.
I've never owned one. I've just used one a long time ago in someone else's darkroom. They were intended for use with colour paper (total darkness essentially).
 
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