Daylight Tank for 5x7?

[rshepard]

I develop my sheet film (currently 2-1/4x3-1/4 and 4x5) in a Yankee tank using Pyrocat-HD and a form of stand development. I'm buying a 5x7 camera (from another APUG member) and would like a light-tight tank that accommodates this film size. Standing in a dark bathroom for a half hour or more doesn't appeal to me. Nor does developing one sheet at a time.

Suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

TIA,

Rich

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

HP used to make a Combiplan tank for 5x7", but it is discontinued, and used ones are hard to find.

A Jobo Expert tank is probably your best option, if you don't like working in the dark.

If you're willing to try standing in the dark, or sitting between agitation cycles, tanks and hangers are a very easy way to process film, and depending on what size tanks, hangers, and hands you have, you could do a fair number of sheets at a time--typically 8-10 hangers, which would be as many sheets with 5x7" tanks or twice as many with 8x10" tanks and 2-up hangers.

 

[donbga]

Suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Daylight tanks for sheet film are the devil's work.

Look at using a drum such as Unicolor or Beseller, one of the Jobo's with a cap, or BTZS 8x10 drums.

 

[Jon King]

If you're willing to try standing in the dark, or sitting between agitation cycles, tanks and hangers are a very easy way to process film, and depending on what size tanks, hangers, and hands you have, you could do a fair number of sheets at a time--typically 8-10 hangers, which would be as many sheets with 5x7" tanks or twice as many with 8x10" tanks and 2-up hangers.

This suggestion works for me, but it is very much a YMMV thing.

I use a rubber 5x7 tank and hangers for semi-stand development. I use an 8x10 rubber tank, over the entire 5x7 tank and hangers as a lid. The 8x10 tank is flush with the table, and I've no light leak problems.

 

[rshepard]

David/Don/Jon,

Thanks for the input. I've had no problems with the Yankee tank and sheet film with minimal agitation. Regardless, I see that the volume of soup would be about the same in a rectangular tank as it would be in a Jobo tank. I can certainly do my stand development in a drum, or even in individual tubes modeled on the BZS tubes.

I can now focus on whether to build some ABS plastic tubes or spend the money on a Jobo drum.

Much appreciated,

Rich

 

[John Kasaian]

Try a Unicolor processor with an 8x10 print drum---it will handle two 5x7 negs at a time with a wee bit of ingenuity.

 

[GeorgesGiralt]

Hi Rich !
I was in the same mood as you are a few month ago.
I opted for a Jobo 3006 tank. I use it outside the Jobo processor.
You will need to buy a rubber stopper to shut it up, and a mean to agitate it horizontally.
For this two schools : the jobo 1509 which is a four roller support and allows you to put the whole tank into a tempering bath.
The other option is to use a motorized base like the Uniroller but they need modification as they do not allow for a complete revolution with such a large tank. It is easy to do with an electronic timer using a chip like the NE555 and a relay. You just have to replace the mechanical switch with the electronic one. There is enough room into the box to allow for the modification.
IMHO, these Jobo tanks provide very fine negs all the time. so easy to put film into, so easy to roll and use. But they are pricey.... And you need to have a mattress pump to open it.

 

[P C Headland]

A Paterson Orbital will do the job nicely, although it does tend to favour continuous agitation. You can do two sheets at a time, with around 150 to 200ml of developing solution. Dead easy to load, even in a dark bag, and almost no risk of scratching the negs.

Ebay UK is usually the best place to find them, but places like Retrophotographic and Nova Darkroom in the UK also seem to have them fairly regularly (although at a higher cost).

 

[bennoj]

I have a 5x7 tank that takes hangers and then has a light-tight lid that clamps down over it. I bought it on the auction site several years ago, but have never actually used it, so I'm not sure how well it works. I can't recall the manufacturer, but it looks to be of mid-20th century vintage and if I recall correctly, it says it was designed for color processing.

 

[rshepard]

I have a 5x7 tank that takes hangers and then has a light-tight lid that clamps down over it. I bought it on the auction site several years ago, but have never actually used it, so I'm not sure how well it works.

Benno,

This suggests to me that you'd consider selling it. Would you? If so, please contact me directly.

Thanks,

Rich

 

[rshepard]

Try a Unicolor processor with an 8x10 print drum---it will handle two 5x7 negs at a time with a wee bit of ingenuity.

John,

I have Jobo print tanks that handle 5x7 paper, and I suppose that they can be used for film, too. However, the film base would be against the drum wall and it takes a lot of liquid for stand development. A minimal size tank would be more economical for non-agitating development.

But, I do appreciate the suggestion.

Rich

 

[rshepard]

Hi Rich !
I opted for a Jobo 3006 tank. I use it outside the Jobo processor.

My only hesitation about the Jobo expert tanks is cost. Several other local photographers use them, but they also develop film on the processor with continuous agitation.

Many thanks,

Rich

 

[Paul Howell]

My only hesitation about the Jobo expert tanks is cost. Several other local photographers use them, but they also develop film on the processor with continuous agitation.

Many thanks,

Rich

I am sure if what you can dig up on your side of the pound, but if you can find a Yankee Cut Daylight Tank it may be an entry until you decide if you want to undertake the expense of a Jobo tank. The Yankee's only draw back it that is very slow to fill and empty, one way to cirumvent this is to use a devided developer such as Dinafine. Shoot PF4 at 400, load in the tank, fill with part A. Soak for 4 mints, empty 4 mints part B for mints with a gental rocking agitation, then empty, plain water rise and standard fix. You cannot adjust the developing times, one time sets all. Takes a little time to learn to load. I have used mine this way when traveling, works in a pinch.

 

[Paul Howell]

I am sure if what you can dig up on your side of the pound, but if you can find a Yankee Cut Daylight Tank it may be an entry until you decide if you want to undertake the expense of a Jobo tank. The Yankee's only draw back it that is very slow to fill and empty, one way to cirumvent this is to use a devided developer such as Dinafine. Shoot PF4 at 400, load in the tank, fill with part A. Soak for 4 mints, empty 4 mints part B for mints with a gental rocking agitation, then empty, plain water rise and standard fix. You cannot adjust the developing times, one time sets all. Takes a little time to learn to load. I have used mine this way when traveling, works in a pinch. I have only see one or 2 larger tanks 5X7 over the years, the other option is to use a color paper drum, such as a Bessler or unicolor. If you can find a motor base it will work well enough 1 sheet at a time.

 

[bennoj]

Benno,

This suggests to me that you'd consider selling it. Would you? If so, please contact me directly.

Thanks,

Rich

Sorry, Rich, I didn't mean to imply that I was looking to sell it right now. If I do I'll be sure to contact you.

 

[rshepard]

After considering all options I've decided to build my own daylight tank. It will be constructed of 1/4" black acrylic plastic, sized to hold 4 negatives, have a large base to ensure stability, and be modeled on my Yankee tank.

Thanks everyone for your comments and ideas,

Rich

 

[rmann]

Try IR goggles and develop by inspection - It was the best $200 I have spent on darkroom equipment.

For the last 6 months I have been using an IR headset with tanks and hangers. Just like working with paper in trays - pull the film and look at the image, when it looks right into the stop bath. It has completely changed my approach to developing film in that time and temperature are less important and I rarely have an unusable negative. There are other threads on this here and on the large format forum that have more details.

I would also add it greatly speeds up film holder loading.

 

[michaelbsc]

Try IR goggles and develop by inspection - It was the best $200 I have spent on darkroom equipment.

...

I would also add it greatly speeds up film holder loading.

I'll search, but do you have a couple of links?

Michael

 

[rmann]

This is just one - there are more - search under IR or Nightvision -

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Poohblah]

Hey guys,
Sorry to hijack this thread, but it seems like an appropriate question: Would there be issues if the film was developed by simply taping it inside a Paterson-style tank and developing like roll film? Of course, the center post & reels would need to remain in to prevent light leaks, but otherwise...

 

[Ole]

The center post would have to stay in, but not the reels. But I don't know if it would work!

I develop my 5x7" film in JOBO print drums. So far I have had no problems, except when I loaded two sheets together on one side instead of one each side of the tank...