Darkroom Supplies help

Reticenti · Apr 20, 2007

I just received my Darkroom stuff I ordered off of ebay (finally and yay!), so I have a few questions as to what I got.

To save on shipping, I didn't get a base board, Can I just go out and get a piece of wood and screw down the enlarger? I have a Beseler Dual Dichro 32C II.

The enlarger has a weird wall plug-in. It is a 6 plug wall jack, how do I go about powering it? (I'm from the US)

I don't have a squeegee, should I buy a photo squeegee?

I have day light developing tanks, but no reels for the film once they;re inside the tank, are all 35mm reels the same size? of should I just buy a new tank with reel?

It also came with a developing tank spinner, so instead of agitating every 30 seconds, it just spins it forever. (It spins like if you were to roll it down a hill.)

For amateur uses, are all easels the same?

If I'm going to do mostly 5x7 printing, and a few 8x10 prints, should I get 2 sets of developing trays for each size, or just stick with one size, the 8x10 size? (I'm trying to save as much money as I can)

Thank you so much for your help.

fotch · Apr 20, 2007

Use nuts & bolts rather than screws. Also, try to get a 1 inch thick plywood board or glue two 1/2 inch or larger plywood boards back to back.

Sound like you have a color head and the weird plug is for the power supply? Maybe post a picture of the head & plug.

Squeegee? Depends. Plenty of opinions either way. Try it and judge for yourself. Personally, I use one and never had a problem.

Get a new tank and reel. If you buy something that doesn't match, you may have problems with it. And, it may cost more than its worth to send back.

Easels are not all the same. You don't need to spend a lot to start out. I have a couple of new ones from a store closing that may help. Send me an email if interested.

I highly recommend you go to your library and see what books they have and or can order for you. Basic Kodak book among others. That way, you can see some of these items in use as well as get ideas on how it all comes together. Its easy, its fun, its addictive. Good Luck.

bdial · Apr 20, 2007

In addition to what fotch said, if what you got was 8x10 trays, I'd just use those. They will need a little more chemstry than 5x7 trays but they will be easier to work with even when you're doing 5x7 prints. In any case, you will want to put the chemicals away in bottles between sessions to maximize its life, especially the developer.

Nick Zentena · Apr 20, 2007

I'd avoid the squeege.

Which tank do you have? If it's a modern tank I'd just buy a reel to fit.

What kind of spinner? Do you mean a roller base? Does that mean you have colour print drums and not film drums?

Reticenti · Apr 20, 2007

I have these kinds of tanks with roller: http://cgi.ebay.com/Beseler-Motor-Base-8921-Agitator-With-16-Drum_W0QQitemZ200097566312QQihZ010QQcategoryZ29993QQcmdZViewItem
It's this item, but I didn't get this auction.
The enlarger is a color enlarger. And I'll post pictures of the power plug after school today.

thanks for the help

Nick Zentena · Apr 20, 2007

That's a print drum. If the roller switches direction it's great for using the bigger Jobo film and print tanks. But not much use for small film tanks.

Silverhead · Apr 20, 2007

The 8x10 trays will work fine with the 5x7 paper, but they're a pain in the butt with 8x10 paper...barely any room to get your tongs in there. I would consider getting 11x14 trays, since this will give you plenty of room for your 8x10s, and also let you process or wash multiple 5x7s as well (if you're so inclined to do that, of course).

And definitely get new reels, you never know what residue is sitting there invisibly on old ones. The developing tank at least can be reasonbly cleaned out with some good effort.

jeroldharter · Apr 20, 2007

If you want to save money, buy a single 11 x 14 tray, use seperate 1 quart beakers/pitchers for each type of chemistry, and do single tray processing. Use 8x10 paper which is widely available and very inexpensive at Freestyle. Mix small volumes of one-shot chemistry as you go.

You might use a piece of laminated countertop material for the baseboard rather than wood because it will be less dusty and easier to clean. For an easel, just get a used single sized Speed Easel from Ebay until you feel ready for a good 4-blade.

Reticenti · Apr 20, 2007

If you want to save money, buy a single 11 x 14 tray, use seperate 1 quart beakers/pitchers for each type of chemistry, and do single tray processing. Use 8x10 paper which is widely available and very inexpensive at Freestyle. Mix small volumes of one-shot chemistry as you go.

If I did this method, how would I switch from one chemical to another?

You might use a piece of laminated countertop material for the baseboard rather than wood because it will be less dusty and easier to clean.

I was thinking of 3/4 in. plywood (that's what I have lying around), I could then put some lamination of some kind that I think I still have extra from a bathroom remodel.

For an easel, just get a used single sized Speed Easel from Ebay until you feel ready for a good 4-blade.

I was considering buying a 2 blade easel from fotch.

I am also still looking for developing tanks and reels for my film (35mm). I've only used plastic reels in the past, (only twice at that) but I've heard stainless steel can be better, but do they work the same way as the plastic ones? The plastic reels I've used, you put the film in a little slot, then move the sides back and forth till the film is wound up. Do stainless steel reels work the same way?

laverdure · Apr 20, 2007

Squeegees are unnecessary.
8X10s will do fine, for the occasional 8x10. 11x14s for mostly 5x7 is serious overkill, and takes up a lot of space & chemicals. Single tray processing, for me, is too slow to justify with mostly small prints. However, you should consider buying an 11x14 anyway, because they're better for washing 8x10s, and because that way you can still use it for single-tray for the occasional 11X14. (for more about single tray processing, I suggest you look here: http://heylloyd.com/technicl/single.htm )
Easels are not all the same. Some are very frustrating to use with FB paper, because they're not designed to handle their curl. If you're using RC up to 8x10, I like the Premier all-in-one easels. If you're using FB, they're a pain.
Don't get crappy film tanks/reels. There are differences, and size is the least important. Crappy ones have ruined my day too many times, so I started this thread:
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
Plastic ones are generally easier to use, (they don't work just the same way,) and unless you buy quality I'd suggest you stick with them, at least to begin with.
I'd suggest a nice thick piece of MCD for your baseboard. Careful you level it out right.
Can't help you with your plug.
good luck!

David Brown · Apr 20, 2007

Reticenti said:
If I did this method, how would I switch from one chemical to another?

The plastic reels I've used, you put the film in a little slot, then move the sides back and forth till the film is wound up. Do stainless steel reels work the same way?

Use separate trays.

No, stainless reels load from the inside out.

http://www.kaiyen.com/photos/pages/loading_reels.html#steel

http://www.getnet.com/~gstewart/ss_reels.htm

Nick Zentena · Apr 20, 2007

Reticenti said:
If I did this method, how would I switch from one chemical to another?

Add your developer. Develop. Pour out the developer. Add stop. Pour out stop. Add fix.

Would drive me nuts. Or should I say nuttier

If you are really trying to save money use that drum in the picture. It's for prints. Same idea with single tray. Pour in chemicals put it on the roller base rotate then pour out.

OTOH I'd miss watching the print develop.

jeroldharter · Apr 20, 2007

The stainless reels work differently and have a little learning curve. I don't do very much roll film so I prefer the plastic reels. Jobo is what I use but Patterson is good too.

For single tray processing check out:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Essentially, you put the paper in the tray, pour developer beaker into tray, pour tray back into developer beaker, pour stop beaker into tray, pour tray into stop beaker, rinse tray/paper with water, fix1, fix2, rinse, hypoclear, rinse. Repeat.

Also, this works well for batch printing. For example, if I have a print worked out I will usually make 5-10 copies to have on hand because that is much easier than trying to reprint something. I expose 5-10 sheets of paper and then put the stack in the tray. Pour in the developer and using latex/nitrile gloves I interleave the sheets gently so they don't kink or scratch. I use a 3 minute development time or longer so that small variations in time don't have much effect on the process. Saves alot of time.

jeroldharter · Apr 20, 2007

Nick Zentena said:
Would drive me nuts. Or should I say nuttier

QUOTE]

I agree that it sounds tedious. However, no tongs, no print scratches or kinks, much cleaner, trays don't stain, much better for large prints like 16 x 20 because you don't have to life the paper out of the tray, and the process takes up much less sink space. Also, much less exposure to fumes and less oxidation of chemicals because less surface area is exposed. Makes selenium toning much nicer.

Reticenti · Apr 20, 2007

Add your developer. Develop. Pour out the developer. Add stop. Pour out stop. Add fix.

I need to save money, not spend the rest of my life in the darkroom. But for larger prints, I'll probably utalize this.
As for saving money, I don't really mind the chemicals, as long as I don't waste a lot, I was more thinking of buying what I need, instead of buying a bunch of things I never use.

ann · Apr 20, 2007

it would be very helpful for you to check out the pdf file on ilfords website, that shows step by step how to do these things.
or find a book that will walk you through the process.
Paul Horenstein book Black and white photography a basic manual is one and there are others as well.

In the big picture of learning how to develop your negatives and to print there is the need to fill the "learning bin" .

Reticenti · Apr 20, 2007

I was looking at this easel from adorama: Dead Link Removed
For this easel, do I just place the paper on the board, or do I put it underneath something like it implies in the description?

jeroldharter · Apr 20, 2007

Reticenti said:
I need to save money, not spend the rest of my life in the darkroom. But for larger prints, I'll probably utalize this.
As for saving money, I don't really mind the chemicals, as long as I don't waste a lot, I was more thinking of buying what I need, instead of buying a bunch of things I never use.

It is not as bad as it sounds. With trays you are doing just as much movement. I decided to do this after marring some prints with tongs, bending large prints transferring to the next tray, and being stuck processing one print at a time.

Darkroom Supplies help

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