Darkroom sink construction plywood...

I went for wet counters. Half sink, half counter. The counters are sloped and drain into the sink, which is just a regular laundry tub. I thought about making a true sink, but I was working in a half bath with no sink space, just a portable table I would set up for trays, and didn't entirely see a need for a huge sink as long as I had a surface that could handle getting wet and could be cleaned easily. Photos (there was a url link here which no longer exists).

I figured out how to get a 10 foot sink out of a 8 foot board.

I had also desired a 10 foot sink, but the cost of a 10 foot piece of plywood was alarming. Since I had decided to create a 32"x10' sink, I got a regular 4x8x3/4, cut two 32" sections off the length (size 32"x48") cut a 24"x32" out of the piece that was left and two 8"x29" from the remains. Putting the 32x48's on the ends, the 24x32 in the middle, with the 8x29 overlapping the joints. Lots of exterior glue and screws. The sink sits on a 2x4 frame. I use 2x6 sides on the sink (I had read somewhere that you should provide a wide board so you could lean on it when you were tired) this works well. Placed coving on the inside joints to give a rounded corner effect. Covered the sink with several coats of epoxy paint (marine epoxy from a boat supplier). I have been using this sink for the last 1 1/2 years, I don't think its possible for it to leak. Its great to be able to place 16x20 trays, (20x24 will fit) without worrying about spilling (considering I'd previously used the kitchen sink and counters).

Curt said:

... less sink and more counter. You can do a lot
more with counter space than in a sink.

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My sentiments entirely. I wonder at the fascination
with long, wide, deep sinks. Bent over reaching down,
who needs it? Then, as you imply, they take up so
much room, room which is useless as such for
other purposes.

I think the fascination may have to do with overly
full trays coupled with an awkward, sloppy, way of
agitation. The person processing can see no way out
but to have one of those over grown sinks. Dan

I've worked on counters for 40 years. If a person has the room, resources and desires a sink, why not have one? It's nice to be able to mix chemicals and have no worries of spills.

I think a very shallow, counter-like sink, at counter height, is the best of both worlds - easy and flexible and comfortable for working, but also easy to keep clean.

Matt

I built my darkroom sinks out of 3/4 ply and then had them coated in fiberglass. I then painted them with the best exterior oil paint I could find.... Average paper developers are caustic enough to remove exterior paint after about a month of daily use. I strongly recommend that you use a marine epoxy paint. Even that will require a new application after 4-5 years. This is not overkill. You would be wasting your time and money using an exterior house paint.

Regards,

Sink Coating

I coated the inside of my plywood sink, which I built a year ago, with Gluvit, a two-part marine epoxy. Then several coats of marine paint (Brightside Polyurethane). Though I wasn't going for beauty, I've got to say that that paint is a beautiful thing to behold—it gives an ultra-smooth, high gloss finish. Both the paint and epoxy came from a local boat store.

--Ben

Ben

I just painted mine with one part polyurethane epoxy. I guess air is the second part. How long does it take the smell to go away? It's been since Sunday and I'm sure if it were in the darkroom, I'd be overwhelmed by outgassing.

Loose Gravel said:

Ben

I just painted mine with one part polyurethane epoxy. I guess air is the second part. How long does it take the smell to go away? It's been since Sunday and I'm sure if it were in the darkroom, I'd be overwhelmed by outgassing.

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To be honest, I don't recall. Actually, I don't remember outgassing as a problem. I applied the epoxy outdoors and let it dry there. After it cured I moved the sink into the garage; whatever smell there was was gone by then. Perhaps it was a few days? What I do remember is that the epoxy instructions called for washing the dried surface before painting. I did give it a wash, but I wasn't particularly thorough—I couldn't understand why it was necessary. Experience and a little research after the fact explained why. Some epoxies develop amine blush after they cure. That is a waxy coating to which paint will not stick. My half-hearted washing did remove most of the coating. But there were a few spots I missed. Paint just runs right off.

--Ben