Darkroom ceiling?

[jay moussy]

My new, basic basement darkroom is in a finished room, sort of. I would call it a dark room more than a "darkroom", for now!
A few years ago, I had to remove old, damaged suspended ceiling tiles, but I kept the grid up.

I need to address the ceiling, now just showing joists and some paper-backed insulation - and the grid.

Should I install new 2x4 white ceiling tiles, quality grade to be determined?

Other options to consider?
For some unknown reason, I fear the loss of access to the joists, bizarre.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Most ceiling tiles will tend to shift every time the HVAC comes on or shuts off, with the potential to drop dust or fibers into your work. If the joist space is light tight, I'd be tempted to remove the grid and leave it open.

 

[AndyH]

My new, basic basement darkroom is in a finished room, sort of. I would call it a dark room more than a "darkroom", for now!
A few years ago, I had to remove old, damaged suspended ceiling tiles, but I kept the grid up.

I need to address the ceiling, now just showing joists and some paper-backed insulation - and the grid.

Should I install new 2x4 white ceiling tiles, quality grade to be determined?

Other options to consider?
For some unknown reason, I fear the loss of access to the joists, bizarre.

I do housing rehabilitation professionally - and no, you're not wrong to want to keep access to the wires and pipes that run between the joists or across them.

I would say that, for me, it would come down to the size of the darkroom and exactly what's above it amongst the joists. If you have junction boxes, valves/shut offs, etc. up there, I would personally use the dropped ceiling grid. If it's a relatively small area and there are just straight runs of wire and hard copper water supply pipes, I wouldn't worry so much. If you have to break into it for repairs someday, it's not too difficult and the hard ceiling will be a much less dusty surface, no matter what material you use for the grid panels.

One other thing to bear in mind - never, ever, run a waste pipe over a hard framed ceiling. It's potentially dangerous and the mess that even a small leak can cause before it's detected will be difficult to remediate. So if there is a waste/vent pipe running overhead, you're just stuck with the grid.

Andy

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I'd pull the grid down, and throw up drywall. Mud it. Paint it.

 

[MattKing]

The grid will be a great place to string red LED rope light safe lights along.
Or to run wiring behind if you would like to have ceiling power sources or pull chain controlled viewing lights.
Or you could run ventilation piping from your air egress to above the sink.
I would leave the grid and paint up between the joists.

 

[John Koehrer]

Removing the grid, exposing the joists just allows different dust in the room. Personally I'd replace the grid.

 

[Rick A]

Cut 1/4 inch plywood panels to fit into the grid. Paint them any color you want, but use flat sheen.

 

[jay moussy]

Cut 1/4 inch plywood panels to fit into the grid. Paint them any color you want, but use flat sheen.

I like that idea, as I favor using the grid for flexibility.
Sheen advice is useful.

A flat creamy color would be comfortable.

 

[mshchem]

I would just replace the ceiling tiles. My darkroom has always had exposed floor joists, I prefer this. I have had wiring and plumbing work done, it's easy to keep clean. Hang stuff between the joists.
In your situation with existing insulation etc, might be easier to use bright new tiles. I'm not sure weight would be a problem with plywood? Whatever makes you happy.

 

[Rick A]

I would just replace the ceiling tiles. My darkroom has always had exposed floor joists, I prefer this. I have had wiring and plumbing work done, it's easy to keep clean. Hang stuff between the joists.
In your situation with existing insulation etc, might be easier to use bright new tiles. I'm not sure weight would be a problem with plywood? Whatever makes you happy.

Quarter inch plywood weighs less than ceiling tiles, and don't deposit dust once painted.

 

[Rick A]

I like that idea, as I favor using the grid for flexibility.
Sheen advice is useful.

A flat creamy color would be comfortable.

Just cut the ply so the grain runs the short dimension, it's less likely to sag over time.

 

[Roger Thoms]

Another option if you keep the grid is vinyl gypsum ceiling panels. These are fire rated and cleanable. https://www.certainteed.com/acoustical-ceiling-panels/products/vinylrock/.

Roger

 

[ic-racer]

You might consider 'dryfall' paint on the ceiling. That is what I did with the 'office' portion of my darkroom. You can see my dark blind here. You can't see the 8x10 enlarger but it is just around the corner to the left.
I used this Sherwin Williams product in black. It is a little expensive at $250 per can, but worth it. I tried black spray paint first and it did not cover. This stuff covers everything.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

My new, basic basement darkroom is in a finished room, sort of. I would call it a dark room more than a "darkroom", for now!
A few years ago, I had to remove old, damaged suspended ceiling tiles, but I kept the grid up.

I need to address the ceiling, now just showing joists and some paper-backed insulation - and the grid.

Should I install new 2x4 white ceiling tiles, quality grade to be determined?

Other options to consider?
For some unknown reason, I fear the loss of access to the joists, bizarre.

My darkroom ceiling is a light color. Dark colors for me makes makes the ceiling feel like it’s closing in on me.

 

[mgb74]

...One other thing to bear in mind - never, ever, run a waste pipe over a hard framed ceiling. It's potentially dangerous and the mess that even a small leak can cause before it's detected will be difficult to remediate. So if there is a waste/vent pipe running overhead, you're just stuck with the grid.

Andy

But isn't this the case anytime you have a bathroom over a finished room? Or am I missing something?

 

[AndyH]

But isn't this the case anytime you have a bathroom over a finished room? Or am I missing something?

Yes. That’s the case. And it’s one of the most frequent areas of trouble- mould, rot, and other issues. I’d avoid it if possible, at least on an older house. Inspect the DWV pipes thoroughly, and replace any cast iron lines with the type of plastic allowed by your local code.

Once you box in the ceiling, be especially observant for water damage. Even a little will cause extensive damage when trapped in an enclosed basement ceiling.

I would avoid completely if the pipe is cast iron. It will attract condensation in any case and leaks will eventually happen. I’d prefer a Sheetrock ceiling but would swallow hard and replace any iron pipe if I were going to do it.
Andy

 

[Kino]

Just cut the ply so the grain runs the short dimension, it's less likely to sag over time.

And be sure to paint BOTH sides and the edges to avoid warping.

 

[glbeas]

Light colors in the darkroom to reflect the safelight. The only place needing blackout is anyplace the enlarger spills light onto. I like pointing the main safelight at the ceiling to provide a diffuse light which doesn't need to be so bright to see easily.

 

[TmRn]

Another vote for white - whatever the material (both ceiling and walls) - except immediately around the enlarger. Most of the work you do in a darkroom with the lights on.

 

[awty]

Cut 1/4 inch plywood panels to fit into the grid. Paint them any color you want, but use flat sheen.

Thats what I have on my DR ceiling, but have no fancy grids or paint, just some screws holding it up.. Do have insulation , which is very important for hot days. Also ply is good for screwing stuff to.

 

[Hilo]

What would be my first consideration: the height of the ceiling.

How high is the grid? my ceiling is 2,40 meter (7,87 feet) and it is the right height for me. My safe lights are against it and far enough from the paper at all times. And printing 50x60cm with Focomats or with a wall mounted Durst L-1000 works fine. In one of my first darkrooms I had a grid with lose tiles and for that size using a Focomat IIc it was too low. I'd take out a tile and stick the enlarger head into it. Not ideal.

A high ceiling also allows for your enlarger table to be higher than average table height. I like to printing standing . . .

 

[Deleted member 88956]

I certainly agree and see zero reasons how one could disagree, keeping ceiling flat makes life a lot easier to keep it clean. Trendy lofty looks are attractive in general and ... where they belong. I don't see darkroom a place that falls into this category though. Sheetrock it, make it smooth, make it clean with minimum clutter. Before you do think ahead how much wires and lights you want from it, as this is the moment to put some thought and time into designing ceiling structure future proof. Make some empty conduit runs throughout if you are not certain you got all ideas covered, so you can wire it up later with no intrusion back into the ceiling structure.

If height is a concern, make recessed sections as far up into it as possible, in areas where you may needed it. Rest ought to remain flat though. That's my message and I am sticking to it.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Nothing is future proof. The best you can do is make things future resistant.

 

[gordrob]

I have ceiling tiles in my darkroom because I need to be able to get at some wiring and plumbing that is in the joists. Over the darkroom sink where I hang sheets or roll film to dry I replaced one 2'x4' tile with the honeycomb grid from a fluorescent light fixture so I can hang the film clips or sheet film hangers in any random order that I need. Has worked well for the last 30 years.

 

[TmRn]

While you're at it . . . whatever you have for overhead lights, split them between two switches. It's much easier on the eyes to go from darkness to half light than darkness to full light.