Here we go - my BW printing flow:
Scan all negatives. Print "contact sheet" for bookkeeping purposes. Number negatives: roll number frame number. Write any subject, equipment, development info etc. on print out.
Use scans on computer screen to choose which negs to print; maybe get some composition ideas.
All fiber based prints.
Generally print 8x10 - larger is for special occasions. 8x10 paper is not so bad to waste a little.
I never do test strips - I get better results if I go straight to first print - because:
RH analyzer pro gets me really close. Rare to need more than three prints; often one is good. It helps, I admit, that I am more interested in storytelling than knock you dead formalism. Burning and dodging is sometimes rarely needed - depends on subject, exposure etc. I will use it to even things out (skies, etc) but not usually for emphasis. I think I average about 1.5 sheets per negative first session. There are many who might claim I am being too accepting. I do OK, however. 8 to 12 negatives is typical for a session.
2.5 minutes in Dektol, gentle agitation the whole time. A few seconds in indicator stop - until I feel the base is neutralized (no gloves). Into Kodafix, maybe 30 seconds agitation. Pull out previous print, and place in water tub - leave current print in fix until next print. Thoroughly rinse hands in water tub, dry (no problems with fix carryover - haven't had the dreaded brown spots in a long time.)
After printing session, here is the further processing:
Empty and refill print holding tub three times
3 min in 1/13 Selenium toner. I do three prints at a time, shuffle them every minute. Place in new water holding tub.
Empty and refill three times.
3 min hypo clearing - same regime as Selenium. As they come out of the HCA, I place in "archival" washer that is already full and going. (Washer is made from fish tank and plexi sheets. Drains top and bottom).
After last print is in, set timer for 20 minutes. This will actually give at least 30 minutes of wash due to the time it takes to do things. (Lie down for a few minutes)
Take print out, drain, lay face up on fiberglass screens. Long ago I made drying screens from canvas stretchers and dowels for legs so I can stack them.
Until now, I needed to rinse prints in distilled water, due to hard local water. No longer need to do that.
Close doors and make sure cats are out.
Next day, flatten for 30 seconds in dry mount press.
This process is geared to maximize processing throughput. If I still had to work until 4 AM, I couldn't do it anymore. The prints pass the residual hypo test, and have the benefit of mild Se toning (the archival protection of Se toning has been disputed, though.)
I have never, in 55 years, had a fiber-based print go bad. Resin coated, however, not so good. The worst there is absorption of liquids at the edges due to long wet times, and excessive sun exposure on walls cracking the polyethylene coating. Cutting the edges off of RC prints does help - they can go yellow, otherwise. Short immersion times would be better with RC.
There it is ...