Those look to me like the result of a lenshood that is impinging slightly on the field of view.
With respect to lenshood vignetting, you are more likely to encounter it with smaller apertures - which is one of the clues.
It is beyond my imagination how this "bars" could be caused by the lens or the pressure plate.
Can you tell us details on how these two film were processed?
I do not see this on the negative. I downloaded the image you've attached, inverted and cranked up the contrast - nope. But I think you have answered your own question.
You should not be camera-scanning without masking the negative. If you don't cover all four edges - all bets are off. You are exposing yourself now to all kinds of random reflections and light piping. Stray light may be bouncing off the slightly curved film surface into the film holder edge, and then back onto film, for example. The fact that your 6x7 negatives didn't show this just means you got less lucky with 6x6.
Also, when I tried Valoi my impression was quite negative. Its geometry (at the bottom facing the light source) is poorly designed and the material is more reflective than needed, it can cast both shadows and reflections onto the film surface.
IMO you have two elephants in the room to consider, before blaming the camera:
- Poor technique - not masking film
- Poorly designed film holder
Those "alternating light and dark bands" look like flicker created by your light box and the shutter speed of you DSLR.
Good call! We used to see this often when I worked in broadcast TV--we called them "hum bars" and they were caused by out-of-synch frame rates, as you describe. Usually when trying to grab film (24 fps) to video (30fps). And the quick and dirty solution (but it didn't always work perfectly) was to change the projection speed of the film to some multiple or fraction of 30. (I think--it was 40 years ago!) Less problematic, I suppose, when you'e not capturing motion....Hmmm, this sounds quite possible--AC cycles at 50-60 Hz, which causes the brightness of (most) light sources to cycle similarly. Causes me all kinds of problems when shooting basketball, where you're trying to freeze action with high shutter speeds.
Can you shoot with lower shutter speeds, at least 1/60 of a second so you get a whole cycle? 1/30 might be even better, should smooth out variations in brightness over the field, I'd believe.
Thanks for the response! I agree that my scanning technique should be better, however the photos from the Mamiya were 6x6 as well. Also I had another picture of the negative and idk if its me but I see the lines...
I will definitely rescan (with masking) and shoot another roll when I find the time, but just wanted to put it out there in case someone had seen this issue with Rolleiflexes before.
View attachment 314418
Those "alternating light and dark bands" look like flicker created by your light box and the shutter speed of you DSLR.
Flicker-Free Lights, and Why They are Important to You
This B&H Explora article discusses the benefits of flicker-free lighting.www.bhphotovideo.com
Hmmm, this sounds quite possible--AC cycles at 50-60 Hz, which causes the brightness of (most) light sources to cycle similarly. Causes me all kinds of problems when shooting basketball, where you're trying to freeze action with high shutter speeds.
Can you shoot with lower shutter speeds, at least 1/60 of a second so you get a whole cycle? 1/30 might be even better, should smooth out variations in brightness over the field, I'd believe.
I had similar bars on my Rolleiflex T, IIRC. Would love to hear what s causing them. I always used a scanner to scan (v850), so the light source should not have been an issue
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