D76 Vs ID11

Hi Anon Ymous & much obliged to yourself and Ian for the info

That's a good point about some liquid being more concentrated lasting longer through both that and a longer shelf life, these are both important factors for me

Maybe the initial nfo I was given about liquids carries more weight than I'm giving them credit for.

My initial choice of developer was T-Max then I thought about Ilford's Ilfosol 3 before considering ID11/D76, none has been ordered yet but I'm going to have to decide on one soon

Ilford Rapid Fixer & Stop Bath are the others I've settled on but haven't ordered yet as it makes more sense to order them all together.

Thanks for the advice guys, it's much appreciated

Esskie said:

My initial choice of developer was T-Max then I thought about Ilford's Ilfosol 3 before considering ID11/D76, none has been ordered yet but I'm going to have to decide on one soon

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Its not to hard to figure the Cost per roll on either. If you are using 35mm in say a Patterson tank. You would need 290ml per roll. Rounding that up to 300 you would use something like 9.3 Ml of Kodak HC-110 per roll. (using the common "dilution B"). In the 474 ml packages it is sold in north America, that is about 50 rolls of film.

Using d.76 1:1 a US gallon (3.8L) will do about 25 rolls. 7.6l divided by 300ml


Rodinal 1:50 needs a bit less than 6 Ml of concentrate. so the half liter size should do 80 or more rolls.

All of those examples assume that you will use the developer "one shot"

You will have to figure out your local prices. If you are in Europe, the selection of popular developers includes the Ilford range. Here ID11 costs more than d.76, in the UK I would imagine the reverse is true.

Esskie said:

Ilford Rapid Fixer & Stop Bath are the others I've settled on but haven't ordered yet as it makes more sense to order them all together.

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You can't go wrong with those. The Ilford stop bath seems to not last as long as the Kodak, but it does not have the strong acetic smell of the Kodak.

I forgot the disclaimer that there is a "european" version of HC-110 which has a "Different" mixing instruction than the American version.

Also Rodinal is called many different things these days as the trademark has drifted away from the product. Confusingly both the west German and the east German formulas are on the market and they are a bit different, but I have seen the west German version advertised as "[something] 09" Rodinal is not what you want for "small Grain", it is good for very sharp results with clean but visible grain.

Photo Engineer said:

John;

There is encapsulation for protection. IDK if it also controls the time at which individual items go into solution. You would have to look at the patent(s) for that information and I don't have the numbers, nor do I remember all of the inventors. I can suggest J. Surash, but that is the only name that comes to mind to help the search.

Mixing a day ahead is useful. I do and I don't depending on my needs.

PE

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OK, apart from things cooling down to room temp, is there any reason to mix a day in advance? I generally mix a batch on the same day (probably 2 or so hours before doing some developing). Granted, I won't use it all in one session. At the longest, the stock solution will sit for probably 1 to 2 months before its all gone.

There is a slight rise then decrease in activity after which D76 stabilizes. This amount is tiny but critical in some applications. The exact chemistry is discussed in Haist and has been posted here numerous times. I would be glad to repost it, but it is organic chemistry after all and is meaningless to many. Besides which, I just don't keep that in my head. I am sorry, but I would have to refresh my memory. It basically involves the reaction of Sulfite, HQ, and dissolved Oxygen to release Hydroxide ion, raising the pH which then drifts back down.

PE

OK, thats good enough for me

Can I ask, from a n00b's P.O.V what you guys think of the 'stick with one brand' debate opposed to trying different types and possibly complicating things?[/QUOTE]
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One's material technique should become so ingrained it is intuitive. Sticking to one brand is not necessary, but sticking to a minimum of films and developers is recommended.
As far as consistency and cost are concerned, I use a replenishable developer. In fact, many of the old lab rats who taught me insisted D76 (hence, also ID-11) didn't really get "right" until it had been used and replenished a bit.
For my own uses, D23 replenished with DK-25R "does it all" for me.