I wondered how long it would take for someone to blame Kodak for self-mixed D-72Welcome to Kodak 2.0
I had to throw out a gallon each of D76 and Dektol a couple of weeks ago due to this. After contacting Kodak, they said they would send me a replacement for the D76. At least that's what they said, I haven't seen anything arrive in the mail, and don't expect to really. Never thought this would ever happen, but I don't buy Kodak products after this. Only the old tins of developers on auction sites.
I haven't noticed anyone blaming Kodak. That certainly isn't the case here. This is certainly all my doing, not Kodak's. I had just remembered a Dektol post a few months ago where a similar color change had occurred. This one has nothing to do with that with the possible exception of this mix being used almost interchangeably with the other.I wondered how long it would take for someone to blame Kodak for self-mixed D-72
You must have missed momus' post:I haven't noticed anyone blaming Kodak.
Welcome to Kodak 2.0
I had to throw out a gallon each of D76 and Dektol a couple of weeks ago due to this. After contacting Kodak, they said they would send me a replacement for the D76. At least that's what they said, I haven't seen anything arrive in the mail, and don't expect to really. Never thought this would ever happen, but I don't buy Kodak products after this. Only the old tins of developers on auction sites.
I wondered how long it would take for someone to blame Kodak for self-mixed D-72
When I read the title of this thread, the first thing that flashed through my mind was: PLASTIC BOTTLE. I've had Dektol turn into brown sludge inside of a week in one of those old DataTainer plastic bottles. Total garbage for developers. Glass only now.I mixed up a new batch of D-72 yesterday ... and decanted it into a plastic bottle t...This morning I went to develop a print and the developer came out of the bottle dark brown.
No. I have recently picked up a few things from Photo Formulary but what I used for this batch has been used before for other developers.Did you recently source some new constituent chemicals?
Don't take that one for granted. Sodium carbonate exposed to air slowly absorbs humidity and carbon dioxide, transforming to sodium bicarbonate.The other one that I hope does not go bad is the Sodium Carbonate.
You don't have to. I had a glass bottle with a solid deposit inside that resisted lye, sulfuric acid, and the sulfochromic mixture sold many years ago by Ilford; now banned. Nothing worked. Then I put a few spoonfuls of sand, plus half-filled with water, and shaked; Perfectly clean.I used to put my developer glass bottles in the dishwasher to clean them properly, but my partner threatened me with death by small cuts if I did it again, so I too now dispose of bottles in the recycling bin (where contamination if it does happen then becomes someone else's worry) and just get a new lot.
I've been know to spread batches of sodium carbonate on a tray and warm them in the oven at about 200F to help drive off moisture. It sounds odd but it does work. I believe that you can often increase the amount in grams in a given formula if your sodium carbonate is no longer anhydrous.Don't take that one for granted. Sodium carbonate exposed to air slowly absorbs humidity and carbon dioxide, transforming to sodium bicarbonate.
I used to put my developer glass bottles in the dishwasher to clean them properly, but my partner threatened me with death by small cuts if I did it again, so I too now dispose of bottles in the recycling bin (where contamination if it does happen then becomes someone else's worry) and just get a new lot.
After much experience I have learned (mostly the hard way) that it is best to home-mix fairly standard developers and not the more, well, fiddly ones which can give wildly different results if one accidentally uses the wrong chemical blend or has exhausted chemistry. I tend to brew up D72 and D76 in its many variants and now and then a batch of Adox MQ-borax. For many years I played with two bath developers, mostly the Thornton blend (in the Ansel Adams mix) but eventually gave up on this as I found basically the more standard developers give as good results. The two baths have an honored place in darkroom history but as I now tend to travel to Southeast Asia, go thru my films, return home with up to 50 rolls of B&W and process in big batches and all-night sessions in my darkroom, fortified with good music and even better Tasmanian red wines, I find mixing up small batches of developer, processing as few rolls as I want to do without compromising quality, and then mixing up new batch, is by far the best way. No false economy is involved here and the best results are usually guaranteed, give or take the usual disasters that can occur.
You Americans are so fortunate to live in a society where anything photographic is relatively inexpensive compared to us colonials who have to pay through the nose for what you buy for reasonable prices. For this reason we tend to hang on to our photo things for a long time, maybe too long, and throwing away darkroom chemicals when they are well beyond their use-by dates rates as heresy. I tend to compromise as Sagittarians do by holding on to everything until it becomes ancient and then doing tests with small bits of film before I risk irreplacable images on film to outdated chemistry.
That sounds like a great idea. I'll look into this. I hate to dump all my brown plastic bottles as I use them for my flexicolor and slide color chemicals as well. Not to mention that I was never the most coordinated person in every day life and this tendency to drop things has not improved since I passed retirement age.Years ago I ran into the problem of some developer being spoiled due to contamination in the brown 1 and 2 litre bottles I was using. I found a couple of items in a wine making store that I have used regularly to keep the bottle and measuring graduates clean. I have been using a J Tube Bottle Washer that will shoot a blast of hot water up into the bottle with enough force to dislodge any solids clinging to the bottle, bendable bottle cleaning brushes and small package of stainless steel balls that can be swirled around on the bottom of the bottles to remove any particles that cling to the glass.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?