mkochsch
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How much of a Palladium print's "look" was/is the influence of using a silver, or stained for that matter, negative? Surely that had an effect. And just to be clear, when you say "toe" of the print we are talking about the highlights of the print right, traditionally a product of the "shoulder" of the negative?That is why I was trying so hard to find a digineg process that allows me to print palladium with no contrast agent and preserve the wonderful toe inherent in the palladium process. Being forced to use a significant amount of contrast agent can end up giving you a print that is both literally and numerically correct, but esthetically unsatisfactory.
Seems though if I'd been using a densitometer to measure the contrast changes between steps the story would be different -- subtly different but one would see the natural characteristics of the emulsion revealed. Would it not stand to reason then that a secondary set of curves could be developed and applied before "linearisation" to reintroduce "the look" of the emulsion. This secondary set of curves would be more like a universal standard though. One generic curve for raw Palladium, one for Pt, Gum, Cyano et al. These curvae would be usable by all and, again to stress the point, applied to the original image prior to applying the "linearisation" curve. Thoughts?!
Interesting thread... It seems to me that if one has good control of the digital side, the final print can have the traditional look of the wet process, or any other desired "look" that is within the physical capability of that wet process. To me this is what is exciting about the hybrid approach - all the possibilities that can be generated in digital combined with the hand-crafty making of alt. prints. But then I'm backing into the old-style darkroom techniques from a commercial/color/digital background, so I'm not attached to a particular process having a particular look.
I am sure you are right. With good control the final wet print can have any look you want, whether that be a desired look that mimics the use of in-camera negatives or something else. Or, from the other corner, you could make your digital prints from an inkjet printer look like wet prints from a specific process. Should not be difficult at all to create a curve and color that would replicate visually the look of long scale palladium.
Personally I don't try to replicate any specific look in my carbon prints. I simply adjust the image on screen in the manner that best suits the image and apply a curve that linearizes output.
Sandy King
So it appears that you can make your process mimic another with a little work.
Interesting thread... It seems to me that if one has good control of the digital side, the final print can have the traditional look of the wet process, or any other desired "look" that is within the physical capability of that wet process.
Only if the tonal range of the desired look is fairly short (say 1.4 or less) can it be done, even with a very carefully crafted perfectly linearised negative.
The nice thing about this stuff is doing whatever works - and learning from whatever works for everyone else
Ben
I suppose you could pick, say, three different gum mixes and characterize them, but it sounds as if that might lose the flexibility that you like. Although it might be interesting to try. So I guess for gum the use of digital is to get a nice neg to work with at the size you want, leaving most of the control in the wet side.
Ben
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