Crown graphic rangefinder

[ForeignObjects]

Hi I am new to large format and just bought a crown graphic. I am having some difficulty with the rangefinder. Nothing changes in the window when focusing and by the looks of it it's because the little arm inside the camera is not moving. I have attached a picture, does this arm need to be behind the piece of metal that sits behind it? At the moment it is in line with the movement screw. Has it slipped from where it's meant to be or is it supposed to be pushed by the piece of metal behind it? If it has moved, how would I go about moving it back into the correct position?

Any help would be really appreciated
Thanks!

 

[Dan Fromm]

Wander over to www.graflex.org and ask y'r question there. You'll get a better answer there than here.

Push the front standard as far back on the bed rails as it will go and lock it in position. Then rack the rails as far forward as they will go. You should see a vertical strip with a slotted screw at the top on the right rail between the camera body and the right bed strut. The RF's "bed rail position sensing lever" is spring-loaded to follow the back of the screw as the rails are moved forwards. It will stop following the screw at some point as the rails are moved forwards from "all the way back."

www.southbristolviews.com has, I think, instructions for setting up the RF.

 

[ForeignObjects]

Thanks for the reply. The range finders spring loaded lever , is in front of what I think you are talking about . Some phone the lever must have gotten in front of the slotted screw. From what I can see I could unscrew the lever from near where it attaches at the rangefinder to move it back behind. Do you know if this might be the answer? No worries if not I'll ask at graflex. Thanks very much

 

[Tom1956]

Thanks for the reply. The range finders spring loaded lever , is in front of what I think you are talking about . Some phone the lever must have gotten in front of the slotted screw. From what I can see I could unscrew the lever from near where it attaches at the rangefinder to move it back behind. Do you know if this might be the answer? No worries if not I'll ask at graflex. Thanks very much

NO! DON'T DO THAT!. Just push it back and hook it in the slot behind the screw. Chances are the rangefinder will be dirty and out of calibration, but at least you'll get it moving again. They pop out and come un-hooked behind that slotted screw all the time. DON'T loosen that hex-head screw at the rangefinder shaft. You'll make a total mess of the whole thing if you don't know how to calibrate one.

 

[ForeignObjects]

Thanks for the reply tom! Good job I didn't unscrew it haha. The only way I can see it getting back behind the screw is by bending the lever towards the bellows and over the piece of metal that attaches the slotted screw to the rails. But I'm scared this might break the lever

 

[shutterfinger]

http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/kalart_1.html
yoursidewaysimage would not accept thetexttool in photoshop.
The Rangefinder Arm is in front of the eccentric screw, it should be behind it. The eccentric screw bracket is riveted to the rails. The Rangefinder Arm is attached to the Rangefinder Shaft via a set screw. If you loosen that set screw you will have to send me the camera and $75 + return shipping to get the rangefinder back in calibration.
With the rails fully retracted, slide the front standard out to the infinity stops or further. Push the rangefinder arm toward the bellows so that it is to the right of the eccentric screw then run the rails out until the eccentric is past the eccentric screw. Reform the arm end as needed to get the arm to rest centered in the slot of the eccentric screw.

Repeat Do Not loosen the rangefinder arm set screw.

 

[ForeignObjects]

Aha I did it! Found a way to get it over without too much bending. Cheers guys!

 

[shutterfinger]

I was editing as you did it.
good job.

 

[Tom1956]

OK. Just make sure the lever is 90° perpendicular to the screw slot. Also, when you get inside the rangefinder and start tinkering, remember that screw that says "loosen" and has a circular arrow is a left-hand thread. That screw is made of a very soft steel and you will surely split it if you don't heed.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Wander over to www.graflex.org and ask y'r question there. You'll get a better answer there than here.

Push the front standard as far back on the bed rails as it will go and lock it in position. Then rack the rails as far forward as they will go. You should see a vertical strip with a slotted screw at the top on the right rail between the camera body and the right bed strut. The RF's "bed rail position sensing lever" is spring-loaded to follow the back of the screw as the rails are moved forwards. It will stop following the screw at some point as the rails are moved forwards from "all the way back."

www.southbristolviews.com has, I think, instructions for setting up the RF.

What he said!!

 

[shutterfinger]

Also, when you get inside the rangefinder and start tinkering, remember that screw that says "loosen" and has a circular arrow is a left-hand thread.

No, its a standard right hand threaded, hex head bolt started from the back side so it operates as if it were left handed.
See:http://lommen9.home.xs4all.nl/kalartmain/index.htm for supplementary information on servicing Kalart rangefinders.
In his discussion on setting the arm position on the operating shaft he states to leave a 9mm space between the brass cam and the frame of the rangefinder. I have found the space needed to assemble the rangefinder and have it adjustable to be 9.5mm to 10mm depending on the vintage of the RF.
If you are having difficulty getting the RF to adjust then it needs a full disassembly, thoroughly cleaned, light lube of white lithium grease or similar on sliding surfaces and a sheen of oil on shaft bushings, reassembled and adjusted.

 

[Tom1956]

You're right-it IS a standard right-hand bolt. But that's from the backside. From the front side it's left-hand. And I strictly do not recommend loosening it after years of being tight, by putting a screwdriver in the slot and turning it clockwise to loosen it. the best way is to take the rangefinder apart so you can loosen it in the regular manner by turning the hex-head counter clockwise. The reason being is that the screw is made of a steel that is soft as butter, and you're liable to split and break the screw. But somebody like the OP that apparently knows zilch about it is bound to make the typical ignorant mistakes. I've been there. Now I can work on them with one eye tied behind my back.

 

[shutterfinger]

I've had one side and both sides break off as well as some that would take a lot of torque. The ones that break have been over tightened or seized into the plate from corrosion.
I have made new, much shallower slot and completed the adjustment.

The OP and future readers have been cautioned.

 

[ForeignObjects]

Thanks for the info. Once I re adjusted the infinity stops and moved the screw that the rangefinder arm follows the infinity was corrected and I found that the 15 feet and 6 feet measurements were fine. I should be good to go now. Thanks everyone

 

[Sirius Glass]

Thanks for the info. Once I re adjusted the infinity stops and moved the screw that the rangefinder arm follows the infinity was corrected and I found that the 15 feet and 6 feet measurements were fine. I should be good to go now. Thanks everyone

This is a lesson in value. The value advice on APUG is much greater than you paid for it.