I've flipped the front standard on mine. There are a few considerations about tilt and shift with the Crown. If you are using the normal or longer lens, then you can also achieve front tilt by dropping the bed, tilting backwards by less than the angle that you dropped the bed and then raising the front. This is tedious and rise then changes with focus; however, it allows you to have a bit of front fall along with forward tilt, which helps re-centre the image circle with lenses that just barely cover 4x5, such as the Optar. If you just reverse the front standard and tilt without some front fall, you will find you tend to get vignetted corners at the top of the image if you tilt by more than a few degrees. On the other hand, if you are using a short lens, like the 90mm Optar, the front standard will still sit on the inside track in the case when focusing at infinity, so dropping the bed and tilting backwards is precluded, so reversing the front standard is the only way to have some forward tilt. Another issue with the shorter lenses positioned inside the case is that you can't get much front rise as the viewfinder wire on the top of the front standard hits the inside of the box after you raise it more than a few mm. Finally, for vertical photos with the Crown Graphic, you only have a bit of front rise and fall, but no tilt, using the shift capability of the front standard. I think there are hacks to the front standard to allow more movements, but they make it more fragile.
Basically, since I'm only using the wide angle 90mm Optar and 135mm Xenar which don't have much excess image circle for movements, I don't do much except a little forward tilt on landscapes, maybe 1/3 of what the front standard allows, and a bit of front rise or shift for tall buildings, maybe about 1/2 what the front standard allows. Then I stop way down to f22 or f32 and hope for the best.