How do you decide when it is focused correctly?
That is the method I use. I can get to the "focal point" quickly but I am always concern about razor sharpness. Maybe too much so? The RB in particular has such a beautiful viewfinder, almost 3D sometimes. I flip up the loupe and always fidget with the tiny-est detail. I am always concerned that the small scale of the ground glass will show up a mistake in the larger print.
Yet you have to focus, and the 'problem' arises.
(I disagree, by the way, that depth of field is more important. Putting focus there where it should be is more important than - also important, but less so - deciding how the in-focus bit relates to the rest of the image 'focus/sharpness-wise'.)
On my manual focus cameras like my RB67 or Yashica 124G when I get to the "critical focus spot" where it seems to be in focus...a tiny bit more and it is still in focus and then it starts to go OOF again.
My question is about the tiny spot of critical focus where, for me, it is extremely difficult to tell the difference, even with the loupe. I know that for the exact focal length of a technical piece of equipment the is "the" spot where it is perfectly in focus.
How do you decide when it is focused correctly?
This may seem like a silly question...but???
I think an example to demonstrate my point is when taking a picture with the lens nominally focused at infinity. If you simply focus at an object at infinity, as you describe, then you will throw away a great deal of potential depth of field for the comfort of seeing a maximally sharp image (of infinity) in the viewfinder. From the standpoint of your composition this may be what you want, but I doubt it. I can't think of any simple way of boiling down the process of setting the focal plane of an image that does not come to terms with the near and far points of acceptable focus based on your estimate of the depth of field. Even if your strategy involves setting the focal plane at a fixed distance and hoping for the best, this strategy does not work well at infinity. I do, however, agree that this simple strategy will work if your objective is to maximally render a flat plane, such as the tombstone in one of the original posters portfolio pictures.
My question is about the tiny spot of critical focus where, for me, it is extremely difficult to tell the difference, even with the loupe. I know that for the exact focal length of a technical piece of equipment the is "the" spot where it is perfectly in focus.
How do you decide when it is focused correctly?
On my manual focus cameras like my RB67 or Yashica 124G when I get to the "critical focus spot" where it seems to be in focus...a tiny bit more and it is still in focus and then it starts to go OOF again.
My question is about the tiny spot of critical focus where, for me, it is extremely difficult to tell the difference, even with the loupe. I know that for the exact focal length of a technical piece of equipment the is "the" spot where it is perfectly in focus.
How do you decide when it is focused correctly?
This may seem like a silly question...but???
John I can identify with the old tired eyes..LOL! You just described my method. I get to the "spot" and then go back and forth in smaller steps until I think it is as good as it is going to get.
I like the idea of mind over matter!!!
not flat (more likely with 120 film then 135)
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