Converting Omega 5x7 E3 Cold Light Head to LEDs for $100

rmann

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This is a short description of how I converted an Omega 5x7 E3 Head to an LED head -

The enlarger I have is an Automega 5x7 E3 - it originally had a 4 tube cold light head when I got it. The metal housing is rather compact and has a filter drawer. I removed the old cold light head, but kept all of the original housing. All of the new parts fit into the housing and above the filter drawer.

The LEDs are mounted on an aluminum 3/8 inch plate. The plate was cut to fit into the housing, holes were drilled to use the original mounting hardware from the cold light head.

I made two wood filler blocks that clamp a plastic diffusion sheet just above the filter drawer - I kept the original glass diffusion plate that is below the drawer. I put some metal tape over the wood to reflect light. Yes, There are two diffusion plates - I did this because I wanted to eliminate any hot spots from the LEDs. This has worked out well - light fall off into the corners is about 2/3 of a stop from the center using a R H Designs meter.

I used 12 - LEDs. They are 3 watt units and are wired in series, powered by a Meanwell Power supply. The power supply is mounted above the aluminum plate.

I used plastic LED mounting connectors which allow you to mount LEDs without soldering. You do need to drill holes for screws into the aluminum plate and mount then with heat transfer paste.

Total time to do the conversion was about two days - Cost was approximately $100

12 - 3 watt Cree XP-G cool white LEDs @ $5 Each
12 - Solderless BJB LED Connectors @ $.85 Each
1 - Meanwell LPC 60-1050 Power Supply
Aluminum Plate - I had this in my scrap pile - Maybe $15 if I had to buy it.
Heat Transfer Paste - this I also had, you really need very little to mount 12 LEDs
Wire - this I also had

I sourced the LEDs from: reefledlights.com

They can supply just about all the parts you would need to make a head.

For contrast control I am using a set of Ilford VC filters that I had that fit in the filter drawer. They give me the same control that I had with a conventional enlarger. Print times are fast - about 10 sec for an 11x14 from a 5x7 neg at f22 on Ilford MG fiber paper.
 

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rmann

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Great invention and sounds like fun. Do you think the thick aluminum plate and heat transfer paste are necessary for this application?

Jon

The times the LEDs will be on for focusing could be minutes, my timer has an auto shutoff feature on focus so heat should not be an issue. I did do a few trial time runs and the heat settled down around 115 degrees as measured on the back of the plate. The paste is very cheap and you will need to mount the LED stars on something, so why not use a heat sink of some type?
 

ic-racer

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I like the way you fit it all in the original head. Very nice job. I also like the fact you are using the Ilford filters. Just think of the hundreds of hours you would have spend engineering a multigrade dimming and timing circuit, when now you can be printing.
 

vpwphoto

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Thanks so much for sharing... my concern/question to you is how even is the illumination... those LED's are almost point sources I figure hot spots may be an issue/// please advise or explain better how you handled this.
Thank you.
 
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rmann

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Thanks so much for sharing... my concern/question to you is how even is the illumination... those LED's are almost point sources I figure hot spots may be an issue/// please advise or explain better how you handled this.
Thank you.

The head has an opal glass diffuser plate as the original one - above the filter drawer, I added another diffusion plate. The LEDs have a 120 degree beam spread, there are no "hot spots" - there is a little light fall off in the corners. I use a R H Designs meter and it shows about 2/3s of a stop in the very corner compared to dead center on a full frame 5x7 with the lens wide open. When I move in from the corners or stop the lens down a few stops I get very uniform readings. With no lens the light is even across a full frame. I don't expect this to be a problem in actual print making.
 

vpwphoto

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Thank you... keep us posted. I know the days must be numbered on my "cold light" ... and I am very good with electronics and think LED's are pretty cool. I was at a banquet photographing tonight and noticed the "floods" and "spots" were LED... still some heat, but not enough to burn your arm at 12" like the old days.
 

SafetyBob

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Nice to see someone else who does LED stuff. Been modding Maglite flashlights for years with my own heatsinks, drivers and stuff. Modified a couple of old flourescent lights that were undercounter.....I love those solderless connectors, never seen them before. Thanks for the info, they are just what I have been looking for.....now I can start those LED backyard spotlight projects I want to finish. Very nice job on the enlarger.

Bob E.
 

robtmwall

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Excellent article! I've got an E-3 with the original Wollensack lens that matches the autofocus rail. The cold lamp head still works but the noise from the thing is disconcerting and I'm not crazy about the shutter paddle either. The enlarger isn't in use and is stored on a top shelf in my garage at this time. The opal diffuser glass is cracked and I had given up on finding a replacement. It sounds as though that the LED head replacement with a new diffusion panel is all that's needed to get this old war horse back in operation. The original diffusion glass was graduated to compensate for the staggered levels of the fluorescent tubes, so a uniform diffusion panel will work nicely. The cold lamp heads were out of my budget when I checked several years back, actually a bunch of years back. I'm glad I finally started to explore this site Thanks!
 

L Gebhardt

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Thanks for posting this. It looks great. I have the same enlarger, and I've been working to get it up and running. My cold light head seems to be running well, but once I add a yellow filter to help it work on VC paper the times get really long. This looks like a fun project that shouldn't take too long to build, and I'd have a much nicer enlarger at the end.

Which of the Cree XP-G LEDs did you buy? The site you listed has both 6500K and 7500K options.

Is there any startup lag from the power supply? I assume you have this all plugged into a timer. Any problems cycling on and off frequently?

Have you tested the contrast range possible with the filters and a step wedge? What is the contrast like without a filter?
 
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rmann

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I did do a set of step test with a 21 step wedge - I compared the results to a set from a condenser head - they were the same except for the 0 and the 00 filters which did not reach the same max black as the condenser results. I do not consider this much of a problem as I usually do split printing with a 0 or 00 filter.
 

L Gebhardt

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Thanks. Sounds like the 7500K probably give about one half grade higher than my usual diffusion enlarger (which is about half a grade softer than a condenser head). Maybe I'll try a few tests with the 6500K version too and see if I can get it to match the other enlarger so my development times can stay the same. Maybe that will bring the low contrast inline as well.

I use an RH designs timer for my Ilford 500 setup, so I was thinking about picking one up for this enlarger too. So that's great news about working well with this timer. Time to get some stuff ordered.
 
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I'm sure approaches work well. I might upgrade my 45mx to enlarge 5x7 negs. Led technology makes a lot of sense now. Back in the 80s halogen was the best thing.
 

L Gebhardt

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Well, I order some LEDs to try and duplicate rmann's setup, but I went for the 6500K version after looking at the spectral emission chart. Looks like the same blue, but more in the green. Should work well with the multigrade filters. For the time being I'll use under the lens filters since I can't find any big enough to fit the filter drawer.
 

George Collier

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This is encouraging for those of us using Aristo Cold lights, I think. We are awaiting one final production run on various forms of the V54 lamp (which, at my age, I would just as soon stay with).
I'm not so good at electronics, or designing this kind of "rigging up". Does anyone have any feel as to how this might work with an Aristo head?. The one is use is a single bulb, with a 6" filter drawer for a D2, and I also have an old standard Aristo head, that came with the original HI lamp. Could either be converted like this?
 
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rmann

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I don't see why it would be different. You may need to work a little on the right distance from LED's to the diffuser to get even light distribution. The E3 I did convert is rather compact, so I used two diffusion plates because of the limited height of the head. Also, because you are doing 4x5 you may need fewer LED's which would lower the cost, or you could space them closer together for a brighter unit.
 

Sundowner

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I'm really thinking that I could hybridize this with the Beseler 23 modification...I didn't like the idea of strip LED's, so these socket forms are the ticket. Now all I need is an unused enlarger...and a place to put a third one.
 

Photo Hobyist

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I have made this conversion, and all is well! I do have a related question. I cannot figure out how to easily remove the round 12" plate that is attached to the enlarger's carrier stage..I want to replace the gasket that is under it. Can you tell me how to remove it?
 
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